RVCampsite only 30amp - can we run AC in the Class A

The 2 differences between my 30A TT and my current 50A classA is one more AC and both have heat strips. The TT had an electric water heater and all the same 110 electric features as my MH.

So just run one AC and keep the water heater on LP.

mowermech has a valid point. Let's assume the A/Cs draw 12A so that's 24A or exactly 80% of 30A which is the NEC recommended 80% maximum sustained load. Are their other loads?

Running multiple high draw appliances can be a **** shoot for those that don't or can't monitor the amps or the voltage. Most RVers are aware of burned or overloaded 30A pedestal plugs which can be due to both user and owner maintenance.

Our coach has two air conditioners.
It also has a 30 amp power supply cord.
We run both A/C units at the same time frequently..
We also have a selector switch so we can run either the water heater or microwave, but never both.
It works just fine.

Actually IMHO a 50A RV should have a PI HW50C power protector. A open or partially open 50A neutral will cause very high voltage and let the smoke out. My remote is inside and displays 10 different errors that cause it to shut down power. And it displays amps, voltage and frequency on any 20A, 30A or 50A pedestal plug.

WE do it quite often. One AC only, plus one other device such as a hair dryer or coffeepot. TV is usually OK. but like said, get a plug in voltmeter, and just watch it for low voltage.

We're on 30A enough that I added a independent 20A circuit that can be plugged into the 20A pedestal plug. You could just run an extension cord through a window for say a coffee maker, etc.

This provides 30A+20A. A 50A pedestal supplies 50A+50A or 100A @120V.

With a little planning you can still use a hot plate or other cooking device.

I have a dedicated inverter powered outlet in the kitchen. So when power resources are low, I use that.

I do have a load support inverter/charger, but be aware that load support is NOT voltage support. So watch the system voltage carefully.

You can run one A/C 2 .. Well I've done it for proof of concept for a few minutes but at 27 amps the breaker may trip.

If you run both you have to turn off everythign else NO microwave No water heater NO electric cooking TV's may be ok and give it an hour or so before you fire up the 2nd one to let the converter charge the batteries.

But generally the rule is ONE A/C Also turn off water heater if using microwave.

We've run our 50 amp 5er on 30 amps a few times at campsites that did not have a 50 amp hookup. Power management is all you have to do.

If you have a gas/electric water heater, flip it on gas.
You can run one air conditioner, should be, with absolutely no problem, but not both at the same time.
To help save power management a little, if you have a gas/electric refrigerator, flip it to gas also.
If running the microwave, turn the air conditioner off while it's running. When done with the microwave, turn the air conditioner back on.

If running an appliance, like a 1500 watt hair dryer, or a 1500 watt electric skillet or griddle, run them on a completely separate extension cord plugged into the campground 20 amp socket (like in a house).

If you do these simple steps, you'll have no issues with power management. And you can run either air conditioner, just not both at the same time.

Folks do this type of power management all the time, successful on 30 amp with 50 amp RV's.

As others have already said, yes you can run one AC with the 30 amp. I see in your signature that you have several pets. I would want to stay around the coach for at least one afternoon before leaving your pets in the coach for an afternoon. Sometimes running on 30 amp can have a learning curve for those who are used to using 50 amp. It is easy to forget to switch the water heater to propane instead of electric, or the fridge may switch back to electric because it hasn't been run on propane for a while, etc. Best to work those things out before leaving the pets.