Reese Universal Base Rails - Questions on installation

[Baja_Man]

Hello all--

Getting ready to install the Reese RP 30035 universal rails in my 1992 Ford F350. I had few questions....

1. Has anyone attempted to install with air bags? My air bag top bracket appears to be right in the spot where the rear bracket would install.

2. Directions call for the rear end of rear rail to be installed at 32 1/2" from rear of truck bed. However, it gives no measurement for front rail. Why? Instructions do not mention to install hitch and take measurements from there, at least instructions were not clear on this point.

3. Did you remove wheels and put rear axle on jack stands for this install? Instructions state to raise rear axle and support with jack stands but makes no point about removing rear wheels.

4. Any advice, tips or recommendations on this install?

Thanks!

[Baja_Man]

do those spacers go on top or bottom?

On top of bed.....I'm assuming bolt heads on top of rails need a spacer if they are atop a depression and no spacer if they are on a hill, correct?

Under bed..... if that same bolt on top of a depression (top of bed) will be a hill under bed and not need a spacer. If bolt on top is atop a hill, the under bed it will be in a depression and a spacer would be needed, correct?

What do you do if the hole ends up between a hill and depression on top or underneath? If you move rail to one side to avoid this, rails are no longer centered between bed wheel wells.

[jerem0621]

The sheet metal on the bed floor also carries weight and transfers weight down through the hat channels under the bed.

The Andersen Ultimate gooseneck version and the B&W companion do the same thing. They transfer weight through the bed to the frame.

4 bolts with the brackets is enough to tie the rails to the frame...

The bed of the truck transfers some of the weight down. That's why there are spacers to keep the bed corrugations from being crushed.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

[MFL]

Baja Man wrote:
actualyy instructons do not say to remove wheels, only to jack up rear axle and use jack stands.

Question....why do the brackets only connect to one hole on each end of rail? Each end of rail has two bolts but only one connects to frame bracket?

That means there are only four bolts connect to rails and six connect only to sheet metal of bed. Correct? Doesnt seem right.

Yep, that is how it works, with the universal rails, 4 bolts, rails to frame. Be sure to use proper spacers on the bed sheet metal, as they add strength, and keep the bed kink free.

Jerry

[Baja_Man]

actualyy instructons do not say to remove wheels, only to jack up rear axle and use jack stands.

Question....why do the brackets only connect to one hole on each end of rail? Each end of rail has two bolts but only one connects to frame bracket?

That means there are only four bolts connect to rails and six connect only to sheet metal of bed. Correct? Doesnt seem right.

[MFL]

Yes, you need to put hitch and front rail together, after figuring exactly where the rear rail mounts. You should have two different length brackets, and sometimes have to switch them out, to fit around obstacles.

It is much easier to do the install with the rear wheels removed!

Jerry

[Old-Biscuit]

Sometimes you have to make adjustments.

Center line of King Pin can be 2" forward, directly over or even 2" behind center-line of rear axle

Heck I've even seen where king pin was 4" forward of rear axle

Just make sure hitch is centered, rails are squared and bolted down to/thru/onto frame.


Reason for supporting on jacks stands is because of removing wheels so that you have room/access to frame and install brackets/bolts/nuts etc.

[Baja_Man]

partsman01 wrote:
I have a hijacker I am fighting to get in now, it is the slider style and rails run the length of the truck bed, and on mine it had to be assembled then put in box and back of rail was set at 24 1/2" from end of box, then I squared the hitch side to side, so if yours is assembled when you put the hitch in and set the back rail correctly then the front rail has to be the correct distance.
You would then just make sure side to side is correct.

Sounds logical....assemble hitch and rails in bed of truck, align to measurements/distances per instructions, and insure diagonal measurements are taken to insure it is square to bed.

Why don't instructions state this? I hate to not follow them and end up drilling holes in frame and find out later I made a mistake.:M

[partsman01]

I have a hijacker I am fighting to get in now, it is the slider style and rails run the length of the truck bed, and on mine it had to be assembled then put in box and back of rail was set at 24 1/2" from end of box, then I squared the hitch side to side, so if yours is assembled when you put the hitch in and set the back rail correctly then the front rail has to be the correct distance.
You would then just make sure side to side is correct.