Forum Discussion

Aintright's avatar
Aintright
Explorer
Apr 01, 2015

1988 Gulf Stream. Auto Parking brake, not GM/Workhorse.

Not sure I have this in the right forum, if I do not I apologize, not sure where to put it.

I have a 1988 Gulf Stream classic, it has the 460 Ford motor and is on a John Deere chassis.

This has the auto brake on it behind the transmission. It does not have a manual parking brake.

I need the MH towed now, need the parking brake off, and have heard so many different things about the brake coming on when driving or parked people cannot move, I am wanting to put a switch that will release the break when I want to, not all the time, just when and if I have trouble and/or needed towed. I am wondering if it has a actuator or solenoid that if no 12v on it that is what sets the break. If it does, I connect a switch to put 12v on it and release the brake. I looked at the GM/Workhorse, but it is not the same as the one I have, have been told that.

This is not a it is NOT a GM/Workhorse autopark.

I have contacted oldusedbear and he has no information on what I have.

If I could find a wiring diagram or something that can tell me how the system works, I think I can figure it out. Thanks in advance for anyone that can help me.
Class A
  • Aintright's avatar
    Aintright
    Explorer
    Apr 02, 2015
    tommykelly wrote:
    Be safe....when you remove the driveshaft have your r.v. on "level"ground with substantial chocks.

    If you remove your driveshaft ...have your duck tape ready so the cups with the internal needle bearings don't fall ...you may be able to tie up the rear part of the driveshaft or remove it form the center carrier bearing....
    If you are not sure...you might be money ahead to let someone handle that job.

    mark your driveshaft so it is "clocked" correctly when you put it back together.

    a driveline vibration is very aggravating later on ....


    you don't want to remove that shaft without someone around...just be safe.....



    Thanks Tommykelly, I have removed drive shafts from cars, replaced the universal joints and put them back, did that a lot on a Luv truck. :-) I hope there is not much different between a MH and a car. Thanks again for the help.
  • tommykelly's avatar
    tommykelly
    Explorer
    Apr 02, 2015
    Be safe....when you remove the driveshaft have your r.v. on "level"ground with substantial chocks.

    If you remove your driveshaft ...have your duck tape ready so the cups with the internal needle bearings don't fall ...you may be able to tie up the rear part of the driveshaft or remove it form the center carrier bearing....
    If you are not sure...you might be money ahead to let someone handle that job.

    mark your driveshaft so it is "clocked" correctly when you put it back together.

    a driveline vibration is very aggravating later on ....

    you don't want to remove that shaft without someone around...just be safe.....
  • Aintright's avatar
    Aintright
    Explorer
    Apr 02, 2015
    tommykelly wrote:
    If you tow with rear wheels down (turning) you either must disconnect driveshaft or keep the engine running.. otherwise you will destroy tranny.

    there is no lube with engine off...

    unless you are going a "very" short distance


    Thanks, guess I will remove the drive shaft and have it towed. They want $150 an hour to remove the drive shaft, it should not take that long, I remove it. the tow truck driver said when I remove it, I must have one of the back wheels off the ground or it will twist on me, break or hurt what ever it hits. :-)

    Thanks again for the info.
  • tommykelly's avatar
    tommykelly
    Explorer
    Apr 02, 2015
    If you tow with rear wheels down (turning) you either must disconnect driveshaft or keep the engine running.. otherwise you will destroy tranny.

    there is no lube with engine off...

    unless you are going a "very" short distance

    this is true for gm or ford...

    the parking unit also through ford and chevy sell only the complete unit

    you can buy aftermarket parts but make note...there is no internal parking pawl in the transmissions equipped with driveshaft lock...so if it fails ...wave goodbye to your rv.
    Hydraulic pressure releases brake...a fail safe type mode.
    have your unit inspected by a pro...
  • Aintright's avatar
    Aintright
    Explorer
    Apr 02, 2015
    96bounder wrote:
    Your post mentioned needing it towed now,Would removing the drive shaft solve your problem? Generally they are removed for towing anyway.


    Yes, I am needing it towed now. Removing the driveshaft would solve my immediate problem, but might not solve a problem down the road if I drive it and the autobrake locks up. I have read a lot of stories about the brakes coming on while driving and when you park it someplace then cannot move when you want to leave. I am trying to think ahead while it is sitting in my driveway, now is the time to work on it.
  • Aintright's avatar
    Aintright
    Explorer
    Apr 02, 2015
    RLS7201 wrote:
    That chassis is now supported by Freightliner. Hopefully they can supply the info you need.

    Richard


    Thanks Richard, I will contact Freightliner and see what they tell me.
  • 2Bargos's avatar
    2Bargos
    Explorer
    Apr 02, 2015
    Your post mentioned needing it towed now,Would removing the drive shaft solve your problem? Generally they are removed for towing anyway.
  • RLS7201's avatar
    RLS7201
    Explorer II
    Apr 02, 2015
    That chassis is now supported by Freightliner. Hopefully they can supply the info you need.

    Richard

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