Eternabond Tape on the edges of roof

I've done it to corrugated sides. Eternabond sticks great, but you have to clean really well. I am a fan of acetone, but be careful. My 1983 Jamboree is built with FRP siding. The color goes all the way through and acetone doesn't dissolve FRP. Anything painted will be stripped by acetone.

Once all the muck is off and you have good surface to work with, get a METAL roller and an appropriate width roll of Eternabond. It should cover at least an inch past your seam edge. Apply the tape and be careful not to get air bubbles. They are practically impossible to get out. Once the tape is all on, hit it really well with the the metal roller and make absolutely sure you get into all the corners and radiused areas with a thin rod or fingers. Once you put good pressure on the Eternabond it will hold onto the odd shapes. Go over it a couple more times in the following day or to and be sure it has adhered well. Once stuck on, it aint goin nowhere.

Jose

I clipped a tree on the corner of my 5ver.Dented it and ripped it a little.
I used dawn soap and hot water and cleaned it good.Put ether bond tape on and bought a tube of rv clear caulking around the edge to be safe .
worked great

Will be following this thread...have given the same thought to my 2000 Winnebago Minnie Winnie...have dealt with a cabover leak since I purchased it in December 2011. Not necessarily the same leak all the time...but a leak. I Eternabonded all of roof seams at purchase and am now considering what this OP is considering.

I did this to my year old Forest River, as a preventive measure. Bought rolls of 2" and 4" and over-lapped front and rear seams where caps meet the roof and also where side panels meet the roof. Luckily, the factory caulk was still fresh, so a minor cleaning with acetone was all that was needed.
Grumpy

After having a new '89 Jamboree that leaked I used Eternabond to seal the seams on my Pace Arrow before it ever had an idea of leaking. It never got a leak. My nephew had turned me to Eternabond when he was working underwater. It was originally used to seal underwater cables while still underwater.

I have a Itasca 1980 Minnie Winnie that I'm thinking of buying, but it has some water damage over the cab and the aluminum skin has corroded at all the staple spots in front and underneath. There are some soft spots,but about 95% solid, so there's hope? Has anyone used this tape to lay up an overlapping layer to seal a large panel area? Outside of tearing into the underlaying I don't want to spend the time and effort if it's not worth doing. It doesn't look too far gone yet and is structurally sound from what I can see and push on. The RV has been under cover the past 14 years, so definitely saved it from the junk yard. I was tossing around the idea of laying up a fiberglass overcoat on the front of the cab, has anyone done this? Or is there a quality seal/overcoat that would seal this up? I know it should be torn apart and fixed right, but I don't have the place/time to do it, or the $$$. I saw this product on Amazon in the 6 inch width and thought I could lay up an overlapping shingle across the front of the cab then seal over the seams. Sound feasible?

Followingthis thread...considering this as a preventive measure on ours.

I've used some "gun metal gray" (that's the color I call it) Duck Tape (the original, has a picture of a duck on the label) which is an outdoor tape for some sealing on my Winnie. Since that color is already in the graphics, I don't even notice it the tape as being tape. I was thinking, that at some point, to apply Eternabond over it. I think this would be a very good preventive measure, and when it comes to leakage and Class C's, you can't have enough! This will be an interesting thread to follow.

We removed the trim piece before applying the eternabond. Then re-screwed with stainless screws that were 1/4 inch longer. I could get a much better adherence with the trim piece removed. I worked from back to front.

Agree with the cleaning recommendation. Need to get the surface as clean as possible before applying. Just like painting, most of the work is preparation...

Good luck!!!

I had a problem with anodic corrosion under a roof top storage box. Don't ever put a roof top storage box or punch holes in an aluminum roof. You don't need rails or storage up there, for poop's sake!!!!

The front section was just completely pockmarked with little holes and I needed to cover a very large surface. Eternabond is a very expensive repair for that much surface area, so I considered alternatives. I discovered that many people repair aluminum (but not EPDM) mobile home roofing with USeal Band roof repair tape. I was able to find the 6 in. tape at Home Depot.

I cleaned/sanded the aluminum roof section to be sealed and finished with an acetone wipe down. Then I put on the USeal across the width of the roof, with the edges butting right up against each other to create a good seal. If you keep things clean, the USeal really grabs onto the roof material. I covered all the leaking areas with the USeal and left at least a 2-3 inch edge all the way around the area. I then finished with 4" wide Eternabond tape around the edges and double sealed all the long seams of Useal with a 2" wide strip of Eternabond. I just split some 4" Eternabond the long way to make the 2" strips.

That repair has been water tight so far and I expect it to last the 10 years both products say they guarantee.

Jose