Forum Discussion
- StirCrazyModerator
JRscooby wrote:
Peter_Crowl wrote:
Semi tractors with Split system air?
Just google it.
here, for example is a link to a you tube video on the installation.
https://youtu.be/GUQAj7dTsSo
Not sure where the link takes you. I see some yeahwho cobbling some snot together in his yard.
I know my experience is a decade out of date, but when I retired 3 major options;
A)Sleep where idle restrictions did not apply/where not enforced, idle engine.(My choice)
B)Add a Auxiliary Power Unit, which is a small diesel engine that powers a second AC compressor and a second alternator. I think all also have inverter to power high voltage loads. (If had not retired, my old Pete would have got this upgrade)
C)New trucks could be optioned with a AC unit that was advertised to maintain cab temp for 10 hours on power stored while working the truck.
Now I'm not at all opposed to DIY, but if, like you say, he has to idle his engine to run the AC, what has he gained?
To talk about the RV world; I often read "solar will take care of all power needs, unless I need AC. IMHO, a ICE powering the AC compressor directly instead of a genset might make more sense.
Idle engins, APU (still a engin running and so on. I have a few friends who retired from the military and are trucking.. the lack of maintenance or cheepness of the companies boil down to the apu's are not installed or seldom work. when I pick them up for visits as they are passing through almost every truck at the truck stop is still running. I am aware there are other means aside from running the truck but they are seldome used.
could we do it in an rv? hell ya but people whine about the cost of a second battery, how about that 5th or 6th I was looking into this option a few years ago but decided against it as I would have to tow a trailer around with fold out solar and a huge battery bank as I would need to run it 24/7 if I camped around home in the summer.. the most efficient one I found was about 78amps at half speed. and full speed was comparable to what we already have when you convert the wattage, just 12V is easier to tie into a system.
what I decided to do instead is camp elsewhere out of this desart I call home and go to higher elavations, west coast or a different provence, and camp with the camper more in the spring and fall. the 5th wheel if we need to stay around this area we just get a place where we can plug in so the dog has AC if he isnt with us and we can sleep at night. - spoon059Explorer II
Skibane wrote:
There are ducted mini-splits available - Could be mounted in an overhead cabinet, with the ducting routed along the back side of adjacent cabinets.
Some of the ceiling cassettes also have knock-outs for running small ducts to other areas.
That is true, but hard to do a retrofit like that. I don't really like the existing ducts in thr ceiling becuase the hot roof transmits that heat to the ducts and makes it warmer cool air. - JRscoobyExplorer II
Peter_Crowl wrote:
Semi tractors with Split system air?
Just google it.
here, for example is a link to a you tube video on the installation.
https://youtu.be/GUQAj7dTsSo
Not sure where the link takes you. I see some yeahwho cobbling some snot together in his yard.
I know my experience is a decade out of date, but when I retired 3 major options;
A)Sleep where idle restrictions did not apply/where not enforced, idle engine.(My choice)
B)Add a Auxiliary Power Unit, which is a small diesel engine that powers a second AC compressor and a second alternator. I think all also have inverter to power high voltage loads. (If had not retired, my old Pete would have got this upgrade)
C)New trucks could be optioned with a AC unit that was advertised to maintain cab temp for 10 hours on power stored while working the truck.
Now I'm not at all opposed to DIY, but if, like you say, he has to idle his engine to run the AC, what has he gained?
To talk about the RV world; I often read "solar will take care of all power needs, unless I need AC. IMHO, a ICE powering the AC compressor directly instead of a genset might make more sense. - Peter_CrowlExplorerSemi tractors with Split system air?
Just google it.
here, for example is a link to a you tube video on the installation.
https://youtu.be/GUQAj7dTsSo - JRscoobyExplorer II
StirCrazy wrote:
thats what I was talking about bigger wiring huge battery bank and so on. they are made for big rigs that are ideling all the time now to run off an adverage rv when boon docking. if you use a 120V model now you have inverter inefficencies to worry about also which is even a larger draw.
Explain what kind of "big rigs" are using electric AC compressors and idling all the time? - StirCrazyModerator
Skibane wrote:
spoon059 wrote:
The only possibly downfall that I am currently seeing is the inability to cool multiple rooms. My camper has a rear bunkhouse and a front master bedroom. With the doors closed for privacy/light, it would prevent the even flow of conditioned air. Putting a cassette in those areas would take a LOT of space and would be overwhelming cooling/heating power in such a small area.
There are ducted mini-splits available - Could be mounted in an overhead cabinet, with the ducting routed along the back side of adjacent cabinets.
Some of the ceiling cassettes also have knock-outs for running small ducts to other areas.StirCrazy wrote:
and pretty power hungry, 105Amps at 12V on max.
That's "only" 1260 watts - Not much different from a typical 120V unit.
One problem with 12V units is that the high amperage requires thick wire, and introduces electrical losses. If you have a long wire wire run between the unit and your batteries, you might actually get less loss by using an inverter with a 120 volt model instead - even taking into account the conversion losses inside the inverter.
thats what I was talking about bigger wiring huge battery bank and so on. they are made for big rigs that are ideling all the time now to run off an adverage rv when boon docking. if you use a 120V model now you have inverter inefficencies to worry about also which is even a larger draw. - Peter_CrowlExplorerThe best source of comparative data between a Roof Top and a Split System can be found on You Tube. "RV Rooftop vs Mini-Split AC | Shop Talk | DIY Truck Camper" video. It's a great in depth comparison of the two by an HVAC engineer that's presented in plain English with a spreadsheet comparing the data.
This is the direct link to that video: https://youtu.be/2rk4rANcaVg
Installation of a split would be a process but it is well documented by others so while it's not bolt on easy it doesn't require one to break trail. LG sells an inverter system window unit that's actually brilliant. If it wouldn't look so ghet..er..sketchy ..one of those would provide 14,000 btu cooling in an easy to install package for under $600! You can find them on Amazon for information sake.
In another forum the Houghton roof air units were recommended as a better alternative to Dometic and the like. Looks like they are a bit less noisy. - JRscoobyExplorer II
Skibane wrote:
If you have a long wire wire run between the unit and your batteries, you might actually get less loss by using an inverter with a 120 volt model instead - even taking into account the conversion losses inside the inverter.
I would assume "split" would mean you could mount the compressor, the big load, near the battery - SkibaneExplorer II
spoon059 wrote:
The only possibly downfall that I am currently seeing is the inability to cool multiple rooms. My camper has a rear bunkhouse and a front master bedroom. With the doors closed for privacy/light, it would prevent the even flow of conditioned air. Putting a cassette in those areas would take a LOT of space and would be overwhelming cooling/heating power in such a small area.
There are ducted mini-splits available - Could be mounted in an overhead cabinet, with the ducting routed along the back side of adjacent cabinets.
Some of the ceiling cassettes also have knock-outs for running small ducts to other areas.StirCrazy wrote:
and pretty power hungry, 105Amps at 12V on max.
That's "only" 1260 watts - Not much different from a typical 120V unit.
One problem with 12V units is that the high amperage requires thick wire, and introduces electrical losses. If you have a long wire wire run between the unit and your batteries, you might actually get less loss by using an inverter with a 120 volt model instead - even taking into account the conversion losses inside the inverter. - spoon059Explorer IINew Horizon's offers a mini split as OEM now. https://horizonsrv.com/why-new-horizons/interior-systems/
There are several videos on youtube of people installing DIY mini splits in RV's as well. I like the idea, as they cool more efficiently, heat with electricity, dehumidify, use substantially less power, give you a lower profile roof, are quieter and more effective.
The only possibly downfall that I am currently seeing is the inability to cool multiple rooms. My camper has a rear bunkhouse and a front master bedroom. With the doors closed for privacy/light, it would prevent the even flow of conditioned air. Putting a cassette in those areas would take a LOT of space and would be overwhelming cooling/heating power in such a small area.
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