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L_and_J__Waters's avatar
L_and_J__Waters
Explorer
Jul 06, 2016

Sway Issues with 2013 1500 Suburban

I'm having sway issues with a recently purchased 2013 Suburban LT 2wd w/8100# tow package (K5L) towing a 2000 26' Coachman w/ scale weight of 6000 lbs. Side winds and trucks are now a pain in the boat. Got about 600 lbs tongue weight with a 1000 lb Equalizer.
Scale weights are front 3120, rear 3340 and trailer 5440. Burb alone 5900 lbs. Hooked up, front end within 1/4 inch, rear end drops 1 inch and the bars and trailer are level. I've towed this same trailer about 20,000 miles with a 2004 Tahoe and a 2005 1500 Suburban(with Bilsteins) without any problems. RPO code indicates ZW7 premium smooth ride, but it does not have the nivomat shocks. When a dealer looks up the part number via VIN, it does not call for the special nivomat shock, just an $80 shock. Been trying to find out if GM added the ZW7 code without the special shocks, but not much luck with dealers or GM customer service. Also, the nivomat system uses a weaker rear spring. I can't seem to get past the VIN parts listed for the vehicle. Bottom line, I want to resolve the sway issue, but not quite sure where to go from here. I'm used to towing with a fairly light touch on the wheel and I'm not enjoying the tow since trading vehicles.
  • L_and_J__Waters's avatar
    L_and_J__Waters
    Explorer
    Jul 07, 2016
    OP here. Tires are at 44psi cold. I have the "Equalizer" brand hitch with built in sway control. I did not have these kind of sway issues with the 04 Tahoe or 05 Suburban (same hitch & setup). Seldom would I notice wind or trucks until I switched vehicles. I agree, more weight on the tongue should be the next step. Thank you. Any advice on the RPO ZW7 out there?
  • Turtle_n_Peeps's avatar
    Turtle_n_Peeps
    Explorer
    Jul 07, 2016
    Lets get a few terms and thoughts straight first.

    #1. Tow vehicles don't sway; trailers do.
    Now some will say, that's just semantics. It's not. It's very important to understand sway to treat it correctly and kill it off.

    Trailers sway, and when they do they have a lot of leverage on the TV. This will cause the TV to be pushed back and forth and the whole thing can get out of control like a big snake on drugs.

    I have designed, built and towed quite a few trailers in my time. When they are designed and built correctly, they are VERY stable and tow extremely nice. When they are designed and built wrong they are a nightmare.

    OP you can put any type of tire on your TV and it won't fix your sway problem. The bottom line is, you need more tongue weight on your trailer to take the sway out.

    The TT I have right now is right on the edge of sway. If I pack it wrong it will sway. If I pack it correctly it will tow like a slot car.

    Fix the root cause of sway first and then you can play with other stuff like TV tires and the like.

    Good luck.
  • ktosv's avatar
    ktosv
    Explorer
    Jul 07, 2016
    While you have towed with a Tahoe and Suburban in the past, were they equipped exactly the same?

    What are your tires inflated to? If your previous Suburban had the P265/70R16 wheels/tires, they most likely had a recommended inflation of 35PSI. Your newer Suburban with the P265/70R17 probably has a recommended inflation of 30PSI (at least my Yukon XL does).

    No need to go to the E rated tires, just inflate your tires to the max pressure while towing, most likely 44PSI. You can move to the E tires, but don't inflate them to the 80 PSI because your wheels are most likely not rated for that.

    I would also think you are light on the tongue weight. Based on your numbers you are at less than 10% (560#). Increase that some and this should help. I myself wouldn't jump to the 15%, but start with something in the middle like 12%. If that doesn't solve it but there is improvement, then add more from there.
  • dodge_guy's avatar
    dodge_guy
    Explorer II
    Jul 07, 2016
    alaska315 wrote:
    Equalizer bars are trunion bars to equalize the weight and there is absolutely no sway protection at all in them.I would love to know who started that misnomer years ago.I have hauled 2 million miles worth of new rigs out of Indiana over the years and always have had my hitch work done there,usually at Dan's,and learned real quick from them about using a correct sway control bar and I daily see people that use only equalizer bars thinking they have sway control,and that is not true at all.
    Buy a proper sway control bar,they are cheap and cheap to install and watch how that rig reacts.You won't even feel a semi and cross winds will be barely noticeable.
    Not trying to be rude at all but I will at my age and with my experience professionally and now as a full timer and with the help of professional hitch shops like Dan's,stand by what I am saying till you know where freezes over.
    I feel that strongly about it.


    You are confused! there is an Equal-I-zer brand hitch with built in sway control. then you have A WD hitch that some people call an equalizing hitch. The friction sway bar is OK for smaller trailers, but you need more than that for larger trailers. I have the Reese Dual Cam for mine and it performs far better than any friction sway bar!
  • Crabbypatty's avatar
    Crabbypatty
    Explorer
    Jul 07, 2016
    You do not indicate what kind of hitch set up you have. Hitch needs to have sway control. I use the reese dual cam wd hitch and have never had an issue, now with second tv. Though a 1500 Suburban is probably close to being maxed out. Check tongue weight, hitch setup. If that doesnt cure it then beef up the Suburban heavier shocks and tires.
  • alaska315's avatar
    alaska315
    Explorer
    Jul 07, 2016
    Equalizer bars are trunion bars to equalize the weight and there is absolutely no sway protection at all in them.I would love to know who started that misnomer years ago.I have hauled 2 million miles worth of new rigs out of Indiana over the years and always have had my hitch work done there,usually at Dan's,and learned real quick from them about using a correct sway control bar and I daily see people that use only equalizer bars thinking they have sway control,and that is not true at all.
    Buy a proper sway control bar,they are cheap and cheap to install and watch how that rig reacts.You won't even feel a semi and cross winds will be barely noticeable.
    Not trying to be rude at all but I will at my age and with my experience professionally and now as a full timer and with the help of professional hitch shops like Dan's,stand by what I am saying till you know where freezes over.
    I feel that strongly about it.
  • bikendan's avatar
    bikendan
    Explorer
    Jul 07, 2016
    alaska315 wrote:
    If you don't yet have one,buy a sway control bar.My preference is the Easy Lift brand sway control bar.Under 100 bucks on Ebay and an easy install at a welding shop.



    the OP has the Equal-i-zer that has integrated sway control built in.
  • alaska315's avatar
    alaska315
    Explorer
    Jul 07, 2016
    If you don't yet have one,buy a sway control bar.My preference is the Easy Lift brand sway control bar.Under 100 bucks on Ebay and an easy install at a welding shop.

    I started hauling campers for a living in 1974 and bought my first one then and have done it off and on over the years including my own enclosed car trailer and will never,ever pull any tonque type trailer without one.

    I get a kick out of these folks that think the trunion bars are for sway control and even calling them sway bars.They are for load leveling and nothing more.

    Spend that little amount for that sway bar and you'll thank me later.
  • Hiking_Hunter's avatar
    Hiking_Hunter
    Explorer
    Jul 06, 2016
    lanerd wrote:
    Put a little more weight on the trailer's tongue. You can go up to %15 of the trailer's total (and actual) weight.

    Ron

    Agree - you need at least 15% on your tongue. Redistribute your load toward the front of the trailer or readjust your weight distribution system.

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