Field tricks to remove inside dually wheel?

mkirsch wrote:
Tire guy would have gone at it with a BFH and had it off in seconds.

Neverseez wouldn't have done anything here... There isn't a speck of rust within a mile of that truck!

Well I have only jacked around with that kind of snot for years. A hub-piloted wheel does not have much clearance, or studs break. The lube is not to prevent rust, but to allow metal to slide on metal. I think the bind somewhat to do with heat/cooling at different rates.

BIG dead blow hammer on the rim's outer edges may have done the job also.

Tire guy would have gone at it with a BFH and had it off in seconds.

Neverseez wouldn't have done anything here... There isn't a speck of rust within a mile of that truck!

Well this is how I changed out a flat on an inner dual:



To free the inside rim took a little more persuasion but no hammers were involved.



So some blocks of wood that are normally used for leveling, a couple of spare ratchet straps, 12-ton bottle jack, electric impact wrench with 22mm socket, torque wrench with extension, claw hammer to remove hub cap and some time was required to get this 9-ton truck rolling again.

Geo*Boy wrote:
Wow Bedlam, my truck has never seen winter salt and never will, but the next time I have a chance I am going to pull the duals and put never seize on the hubs.

Doesn't help, at least not in my experience. I pulled the wheels off my 2003 at least 4 times a year to rotate tires and put on the snows. Every time I pulled the wheels I had to beat them off with a sledge, and every time before I put them back on I would wire wheel the rust off the brake disc and paint it with gray neverseize.

blt2ski wrote:
I had some Budd inner studs rust up on my navastar. Hitting them with a hammer, anti rust loosener spray stuff over 3-4 days. A 1500 lb 3/4" impact wrench" broke some free. Me standing on a 6' bar on a 3/4" breaker bar did a few also. Along with loosening them up so impact worked.
Had not had to take rims off in 10 or so years.
PITA! New brakes all around....happy camper.
I've not had inner run stuck on any of the three duallies I've had.

Marty

LOL. First time my first truck with Budd wheels needed brakes I Richarded around with 3/4 impact and long bars for couple hours. Then I loaded all the brake spring tools, parts and cooler full of beer, showed up at tire shop just before closing time. Before next time I had long anvil inch drive just like they used.

Back in the early days of wheels made out of that metal I can't say or spell they called for a hard layer between them and the steel wheel to reduce corrosion. Now often the hub and wheel are not the same material. And it is not just a dual wheel issue.

I had some Budd inner studs rust up on my navastar. Hitting them with a hammer, anti rust loosener spray stuff over 3-4 days. A 1500 lb 3/4" impact wrench" broke some free. Me standing on a 6' bar on a 3/4" breaker bar did a few also. Along with loosening them up so impact worked.
Had not had to take rims off in 10 or so years.
PITA! New brakes all around....happy camper.
I've not had inner run stuck on any of the three duallies I've had.

Marty

And while you're anti seizing your wheels, don't forget to lube the spare tire crank and mechanism.

An old mechanics trick is to place a brick or even a stone under the inside edge of the tire a few inches in. Then lower the jack slowly and the off center load will frequently free it up. If it doesn't work the first time then rotate the wheel 180 degrees and try again.

JRscooby wrote:
Glad you solved the problem. Are you open to suggestions? Pull all the wheels, and put anti-seize on all the hubs to reduce future problems.

Bingo! Spot on. In my garage that stuff is like Franks Red Hots. I put that sh__on everything!
(Except where loctite is actually required.)

@Bedlam, can’t believe 1 year here stuck the rim to the hub. I’d also put a little no stick um on the rim mating faces to prevent future occurrence.