12 Volt Power Issue
We have a Forest River 2015 Legacy 340BH. Our chassis batteries were low, so just started the generator and held the Aux switch while trying to start the coach. Within a minute everything went dead. Installed new chassis batteries, and everything is working there, however no 12Volt power to the coach except when the engine is running or we’re holding the Aux switch. At that time the disconnect switch on the wall in the coach works too. If we turn the ignition off or let go of the aux switch, the disconnect switch on the wall doesn’t work and we don’t have 12 Volt power in the Coach. In addition, connecting to shore power doesn’t provide 12Volt power in the coach. We’ve also verified the coach batteries are fully charged. We’ve checked everything we can think of and feel fairly confident it’s a blown fuse but have not been able to locate it. Any suggestions would be gratefully appreciated. We do have an appointment in early February if nothing else.Solved164Views0likes14CommentsShower Drain Hepvo Valve
Well, I did it this time... I didn't realize my shower was protected by a Hepvo valve, and I used a wire to clear a hair clog. And, I tore the whole valve out of the pipe. Problem is that there is no room to replace it under the shower. There's only 3/4 inch space between the floor and valve, and same between the shower floor and valve. Can't fit a strap wrench on it, there's no way to turn it even if I could. Had an RV repair guy look at it, and he confirmed that I'd have to remove the entire shower to replace this piece. With this valve missing, the smell is terrible while showering. Question: Is there any other type of valve that I could install at the top of the shower drain? Maybe in the catch basket before the water goes down the pipe? Anyone have a suggestion?31Views0likes0CommentsWindshield continuously pops out.
I bought a used 2000 Fleetwood Bounder 39Z. the previous owner and friend of mine noticed the gasket had come loose on the passenger side top corner. So he had a glass guy reset the glass, so it wasn't leaking. I had it out driving it around and having some minor work done and it was leaking air again. so, I took it to a guy who got it pushed back into place again. it has now come out for a third time and I'm hearing from some other glass companies this is a common issue, but no one seems to know how to fix it or what needs corrected so it doesn't continue to happen. Has anyone had this issue and know of a solution?58Views0likes1CommentAtwood 7920 Furnace Issues - Electrode not sparking
Hi there, I am having issues getting my furnace's electrode to spark. Initial symptom was the furnace powering up the fan, attempting to ignite, and failing. It is in a '96 Elkhorn truck camper, furnace is an Atwood 7920-ii Hydroflame. I took the furnace out and gave it a thorough cleaning - had dust bunnies all around sail switch and a few dead bugs in the burner head/around the propane orifice. Tried again after cleaning and same issue. Determined issue was likely the electrode and went from there. While purchasing a new electrode I also purchased and changed the sail switch and high-limit temp switch; still no fix. My old circuit board was not giving the proper 3-blink error code after going into lockout. It would also make a strange ticking sound during the period where the high-voltage line to the electrode would be receiving power. Replaced the circuit board with a new one. The ticking sound is gone and the board displays the proper 3-blink error code after "ignition lockout mode". Through testing with a multimeter, there is 12V everywhere it should be/when it should be there (relay, high-limit switch, circuit board connections, propane solenoids). I noticed there is about 20 ohms resistance between the coils on the propane valve - several places say this is normal but the Atwood troubleshooting manual says they should be above 30ohms. I would return to this as a potential issue if the electrode was firing. I have read every post I could find on several forums and talked to a couple RV techs on the phone, and everyone suggests that this issue is either circuit board or electrode. My only guess at this point is that the circuit board arrived DOA. My assumption now is that the issue was always the circuit board, and the new one is defective also (I bought a $50 cheapy board). I have now ordered a Dinosaur Board and sent up a couple prayers. No heat in the winter in Canada is less than ideal! Any help would be appreciated.42Views0likes2CommentsRefrigerator works not-level only
I have been playing around with my refrigerator for 2 years, it only seems to work with the RV slightly higher in the front. I have been using my Bodega cooker in my RV because the refrigerator never works at a camp site that is level. I just got home and was unloading the RV, I always turn on the unit to see if it wants to cool. Sure enough the rv is off in the front, I look at my thermostat I keep in the unit and it’s cold now. Picture of my level below, using the door as a reference54Views0likes0CommentsHissing noise
Hey so I recently got displaced cause the hurricane and I got put into this small camper with my German Shepherd it's a jayco brand but that's all I know. It has a pop up tent like feature on the front of it. And this runs off a generator also but the noise is coming from the breaker box and when I turn the stove light on it gets quieter... Same as the sink light and radio either way when I turn something on the noise gets quieter what can I do to fix this?? Please email me at bubba88lusk@gmail.com or reply here50Views0likes4CommentsManually inflating rear airbag on a 1995 Gulfstream Sunsport
I can't get the electronic controls up front to work, so I'm trying to figure out if there is a manual way to get the fill valves to open on the airbags so I can raise up the rear for towing. I've located the box that contains what is most likely a solenoid for each back and it has a lever sticking out of it. However, I can't budge the lever by hand. Does anyone have any documentation on how you can do this process manually, if at all?296Views0likes0CommentsNewbie power question
Help, please. My first time plugging the RV into the house plug ( using extension cord and dogbone) everything was great. Work just fine all weekend. Now...... everything is fine until the AC kicks for extra power, then it trips the breaker. It still works fine when we go camping (dont know if that's matters) but the Ac is no longer friends with the home outlet. Please help me get them friendly again. P.S. I am an absolute newbie with "powered" camper. I oncw had a pop-up with no electric, lol.Solved602Views0likes4Commentsautomatic leveling on a 2021 Artic Fox Grande Ronde
The automatic leveling warning on the display on the above mentioned 5th Wheel won't quit beeping. It keeps telling me "Error - LF Jack" We don't see anything wrong with the left jack! The system tells us to "manually retract all jacks or hold retract button to Auto retract. Tried that with no results. We bought this 5th wheel from Camping World in Ft. Worth, TX. It was barely used;; however, there was no manual. That drives me crazy and I can't get any information without taking it in and paying someone to look at it. Anyone out there know what I'm talking about !359Views0likes2CommentsLow point drain trouble
I have a 1997 Fleetwood wilderness travel trailer and my low point drain in the back has obviously been redone by the prior owner. Recently, one of the tubes started pouring water out of it. It's been dripping for a while now but just started pouring water today. There is not a cap on it. I'm wondering if I should cap it out look for a busted water pipe. I have bypassed the hot water heater and the water pump since we are always on city water. I'm scared if I cap it will the water start leaking inside the trailer? And yes that is a bolt in one of the tubes. I didn't put it there but I'm gonna replace it with a valve.379Views0likes3Comments