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Electronic Ignition for Stovetop (w/pics)

12thgenusa
Explorer
Explorer
I finally got tired enough of the piezoelectric igniter on my Atwood stovetop that I decided to replace it with a battery-powered igniter unit. You know what Iโ€™m talking about. You twist the knob; bam, bam, bam . . . bam, bam, bam and sometimes the burner lights and sometimes not.:M
I removed the old igniter and took some measurement to determine the available real estate. I found a replacement electronic igniter for Charbroil grills from Home Depot for $30 that looked promising.
The hole for the original igniter was 5/8โ€ and the new one requires 7/8โ€. If you have a unibit step drill, that would work nice. But since I donโ€™t and didnโ€™t want to spend the $$ I used a stone grinder bit and โ€œhoggedโ€ the hole out to 7/8. You need to โ€œcheatโ€ the hole slightly up and to the left for a little more clearance for the igniter.
Pull the wires off the old igniter and slide them on to the new, order does not matter. Even though the old igniter has round pins and the new has spade pins, the terminals slide on with a tight fit and work fine. Due to the higher voltage of this unit I saw occasional flashover between the terminals when it was activated. I solved that by adding a second layer of heat shrink over the terminals.
The new igniter has four terminals and since the stovetop only has three burners, that left one to add a sparker for the oven pilot light. The new unit comes with spare 37โ€ and 32โ€ igniter wires. I joined the two together and they were long enough to reach across the stovetop, and follow the oven control plumbing down into the oven. The longer wire looks like it has a high-temp coating, but I also wrapped the part that is actually in the oven with high-temp fiberglass tape. I needed a sparker so I removed the one from my gas grill side burner, which I never use anyway. After removing the burner assembly from the oven, I โ€œguesstimatedโ€ the location for the sparker and drilled a 7/16โ€ hole in the pilot support plate. Once the sparker was in place, I reinstalled the burner assembly. The sparker electrode had to be โ€œtweakedโ€ slightly to get a reliable spark to the outlet end of the pilot light tube.
If you donโ€™t add the oven igniter, you need to install one of the supplied wires on the fourth terminal and coil and stow the wire so that it wonโ€™t short to the stove. If you donโ€™t do this, the bare terminal on the igniter will flashover to the others.
After installing the single AA battery and turning on the gas, it was time for a test run.
Aaaahh . . . The stovetop burners light almost instantly, quietly and reliably. The electronic ignition sparks about six times per second for as long as you hold the button as opposed to three sparks per half-revolution of the knob on the old one.
The oven pilot lights nicely. Iโ€™ve found that if you turn the oven knob to โ€œpilotโ€ and hold it for about 10 seconds and then push the igniter button, it will light almost instantly. I was a little concerned about the wire in the oven, so I heated the oven to 500 degrees for a test. Everything looks good and smoke check passed.
DW is HAPPY, and you know what that means . . .:B

Before


Old Piezoelectric Igniter


New Electronic Igniter


Oven Pilot Light Sparker Installation


After


2007 Tundra DC 4X4 5.7, Alcan custom rear springs, 2009 Cougar 245RKS, 370 watts ET solar, Victron BMV-712, Victron SmartSolar 100/30, 200AH LiP04 bank, ProWatt 2000.
186 REPLIES 186

bpounds
Nomad
Nomad
Tom&Dale wrote:
Alternate location for ignition button. Keeping the old one as a backup as well as a reminder how much better the new setup is.

Thank you for the idea 12thGenUSA

Photo in 5th wheel album: E-Ignition...


Could you give me your username and password please, so that I can check your pics? ๐Ÿ™‚
2006 F250 Diesel
2011 Keystone Cougar 278RKSWE Fiver

tvman44
Explorer
Explorer
You did remove the top to expose the igniter and wiring?
I just a few minutes ago did mine using a coat hanger down the right side hole and it was a piece of cake. Don't give up. Try again & again.

ralphnjoann wrote:
I thought the easy part would be routing the wire from the oven igniter to the control. Wrong! I've tried a coat hanger, a flat piece of plumbers strapping, and the wire itself in both the right and left openings behind the top burners going from top to bottom and bottom to top and I can't get it to go through. What am I missing? Thanks. Note: The stove is an Attwood.
Papa Bob
1* 2008 Brookside by Sunnybrook 32'
1* 2002 F250 Super Duty 7.3L PSD
Husky 16K hitch, Tekonsha P3,
Firestone Ride Rite Air Springs, Trailair Equa-Flex, Champion C46540
"A bad day camping is better than a good day at work!"

Tom_Dale
Explorer
Explorer
Alternate location for ignition button. Keeping the old one as a backup as well as a reminder how much better the new setup is.

Thank you for the idea 12thGenUSA

Photo in 5th wheel album: E-Ignition...
02 Dodge 2500 CTD, Edge EZ, Goerend transmission (3.55 axle ratio), BrakeSmart, BD exhaust brake, Firestone Ride-Rite air bags, Husky 16K hitch & towing our 05 Americana LC30/31 RL

ralphnjoann
Explorer
Explorer
I thought the easy part would be routing the wire from the oven igniter to the control. Wrong! I've tried a coat hanger, a flat piece of plumbers strapping, and the wire itself in both the right and left openings behind the top burners going from top to bottom and bottom to top and I can't get it to go through. What am I missing? Thanks. Note: The stove is an Attwood.

trucker_LOU
Explorer
Explorer
TVMAN44, I had a scrap piece of polished stainless in the misc.box in the garage.

Duramax1
Explorer
Explorer
Dutch_12078 wrote:
Duramax1 wrote:
This information is for those of you with a Magic Chef stove that does not have any ignitors.

Last year I investigated doing this project and, like others above have noted, discovered that the four wire ignition kit from Home Depot is too high to fit in the stove.

This year I discovered that WalMart has a three wire ignitor kit which sells for $15.97 in Canada which will fit into the stove. I used a 25mm hole saw kit to cut the circular hole in the front stove panel.

Can you post a photo showing how you mounted the ignitors at the burners?


I will take a picture the next time I am at the RV.

Basically what I did was make a bracket which I affixed to the base of the stove by removing the screw that holds the burner in place. I shaped the bracket so that the igniter base was level with the bottom of the burner and then I bent the igniter wire so that it would fire at the opening where the gas comes out of the burnner.

The shaping of the bracket does have to be rather exact otherwise the stove top cover, when lowered, will close on top of and interfere with the ignitor.
2008 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD DA LTZ
2009 Sundance 2900MK

Dutch_12078
Explorer II
Explorer II
Duramax1 wrote:
This information is for those of you with a Magic Chef stove that does not have any ignitors.

Last year I investigated doing this project and, like others above have noted, discovered that the four wire ignition kit from Home Depot is too high to fit in the stove.

This year I discovered that WalMart has a three wire ignitor kit which sells for $15.97 in Canada which will fit into the stove. I used a 25mm hole saw kit to cut the circular hole in the front stove panel.

Can you post a photo showing how you mounted the ignitors at the burners?
Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
Bigfoot Automatic Leveling System
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate

ralphnjoann
Explorer
Explorer
tvman44 wrote:
trucker Lou,
Where did you find a stainless mirror to mount on the door?
I had thought of putting a hand-held mirror on the door to verify ignition and remove it before closing the door but I like your idea better.
You might try the camping section in Walmart or any sporting goods store. They sell small metal mirrors for campers and backpackers.

tvman44
Explorer
Explorer
trucker Lou,
Where did you find a stainless mirror to mount on the door?
I had thought of putting a hand-held mirror on the door to verify ignition and remove it before closing the door but I like your idea better.
Papa Bob
1* 2008 Brookside by Sunnybrook 32'
1* 2002 F250 Super Duty 7.3L PSD
Husky 16K hitch, Tekonsha P3,
Firestone Ride Rite Air Springs, Trailair Equa-Flex, Champion C46540
"A bad day camping is better than a good day at work!"

bpounds
Nomad
Nomad
The wire I used has a teflon inner sheath, and a woven cloth outer insulated cover. I'm sure it is good for 500ยฐ without any other cover. So I think you should just use wire that is made for the application.

For example, you can get a piece here:
http://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/gasgrillparts/bbqparts/igniter-wire.html

And for a good selection of igniter electrodes, check here:
http://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/gasgrillparts/bbqparts/igniter-electrodes.html

Most of the electrodes come with a wire that is already properly insulated.
2006 F250 Diesel
2011 Keystone Cougar 278RKSWE Fiver

Duramax1
Explorer
Explorer
This information is for those of you with a Magic Chef stove that does not have any ignitors.

Last year I investigated doing this project and, like others above have noted, discovered that the four wire ignition kit from Home Depot is too high to fit in the stove.

This year I discovered that WalMart has a three wire ignitor kit which sells for $15.97 in Canada which will fit into the stove. I used a 25mm hole saw kit to cut the circular hole in the front stove panel.

I then thought that that I was having some much fun with the project that for another $15.97 I might as well install a second ignitor which would enable me to wire the oven.

I followed the suggestion from an earlier poster about wrapping the oven wire in aluminum foil tape which I had on hand from another project. I discovered however that if you run the foil tape to the end of the wire where it joins the ignitor, the wire will short circuit to the tape. So I have removed the last 6 or 7 inches of tape which remedied the problem.

But I am now searching for a solution for that last section of wire. I am thinking about wrapping the wire using convention house insulation.
2008 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD DA LTZ
2009 Sundance 2900MK

bpounds
Nomad
Nomad
Duramax1 wrote:
How are you going to make the hole in the front of the stove to accommodate the ignitor mechanism?


I would use a Greenlee. Rent one if necessary, or borrow from ANY electrian friend. 7/8" = 1/2" conduit.

I installed this mod this morning, and had a lot of trouble with the oven igniter. I tried one from my BBQ, and it seemed to fit nicely, but I could not find a position for the electrode that would consistently light the pilot. The spark appeared rather yellowish to me, and it occured to me that it never worked well on the BBQ either. Our local HD doesn't carry such a part, so I had to go to BBQ Galore and found the one below. The mount was easy, and I drilled the hole with the burner assembly in place. Mounts with a #8 screw. I found that it was critical to get the electrode right at the end of the pilot tube. Seems to be working well now. Here is a pic to show my alternative way to mount the igniter.

2006 F250 Diesel
2011 Keystone Cougar 278RKSWE Fiver

LarryJM
Explorer II
Explorer II
trucker LOU wrote:
I cut a trim plate from black plastic Folgers coffee can lid. white plastic ? dairy products plastic lid ? I also attached (pop rivet)a small stainless steel mirror to inside of oven door. allows me to check for flame while standing.


WOW that mirror idea to see when the oven pilot is a stroke of genius. Two great suggestions that every oven from the manufacturer should include in one thread.

This should be considered for a "sticky" unless it gets too long to be very useful like the "Cool Mods" thread.

Larry
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974.
RAINKAP INSTALL////ETERNABOND INSTALL

ronfisherman
Moderator
Moderator
Step Drill works good for this project. You need a 7/8" hole.
2004 Gulf Stream Endura 6340 D/A SOLD
2012 Chevy Captiva Toad SOLD

Duramax1
Explorer
Explorer
DD716TED wrote:
Since my Suburban Stove had no previous ignitors, I have to install 3 of them... I have made sheet metal brackets and mounted the insulator/spark devices to them... QUESTION... will mounting these brackets directly under each burner to the metal bottom of the stove panel with short 1/2" sheet metal screws hurt anything?... I am sure there is a considerable gap / insulation between the bottom of the stove and the oven liner but I thought I would ask first..


My stove does not have any ignitors either. How are you going to make the hole in the front of the stove to accommodate the ignitor mechanism?
2008 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD DA LTZ
2009 Sundance 2900MK