Soundproofing windows, hanging art...

[Gypsy62]

Newbie, 1st post.
Long-winded, but integrates two topics.

I bought a '98 37' Allegro bus (cat/allison), and was quickly shocked by the high level of bidirectional noise through the stock windows.
I have a background in professional acoustical design and sound engineering, so assessed possible quieting options.
Shy of making extensive soundproofing mods to the interior walls themselves, the thin glass is the weakest link for noise.
The most effective -and expensive- method would be to replace the glass with thicker, possibly laminated, panes. Any glass thicker than about 3/8" would be quieter than the surrounding walls, overkill. I was phone-quoted $300/per to replace the two rear bedroom windows with 1/4" glass (if I performed the window-frame r&r). However, I suspect that estimate would've jumped the moment the shop held the frames in-hand.

I also have an extensive art collection, and reflected how I'd really like to enjoy their company on the road as well. Given the limited open interior wall surfaces, I realized that the square-footage of the windows could be multi-purposed, simultaneously providing improved soundproofing and "gallery" surfaces.
The pics illustrate my solution: a vertical-sliding panel made of 3/8 decorative ply laminated with 1/2" celotex SDB (sound deadening board). Total material costs <200 sufficient for three window conversions. Skilied-labor intensive, as all worthy ends are.

I also improvised an "X" picture hanging system which permits artwork to be both roadworthy and "hot-swappable", gallery style. Virtually any piece can be swapped with any other hanging location, thanks to the matching geometry of the "X" mounting system.
50lb test fishing line. Eyehooks for the lower mounts, c-hooks for the uppers (see pics). The line is loop-threaded through the lower eyes, while the upper c-hooks can be rotated 180deg. to allow slipping-on the upper line-loop, then rotated upward to secure/tension the line.
Serviceably ingenius, I must say (lol).
I'm certain there's better ways to achieve the two objectives of soundproofing and art-surfaces, but that's the best my design hamsters could manage spinning in my cerebellum. Improvements most welcome.
(I rejected the option of a velcro X as both unsightly and weaker. Miles shall reveal how well the nearly invisible 50lb filament endures...)

PS- I CAN'T FIND THE TAB FOR UPLOADING PICS, BUT WILL UPDATE WHEN I HAVE TIME.

[toedtoes]

A weight on the completed panel installations would be good also.

[Gypsy62]

Re a (temporary) foam soundproofing option, 2 things:
1. I know of no 1/2" foam product that is as effective at noise-cancellation as SDB.
2. I prefer a permanent finished-wood appearance. The total material costs were well under $150 to complete 3 sliders and their track/frame assemblies. Granted, well over 20 hours labor, but worth it. The "wooden hearth" effect on both sides of the bed is splendid. Particularly compared to the "circus motel" look of the stock shade assemblies.

I'll post the db/frequency tech specs of the sliders up vs down when I have time.

PS- SDB on-shelf at hdepot ($15), decorative ply at Lowes ($35). 2x4+hardware total cost <$80.

[Gypsy62]

The pics/text weren't posting. I contacted the site's web team and they corrected it.

Again, the superior soundproofing method would be a thicker glass upgrade, but shy of that investment of $300-500 per window, installing a vertical sliding panel assembly has been a significant improvement. And provided an excellent artwork hanging surface.

Jake
Ps- thanks for kudos. Any ideas to improve design most welcome. I forgot to mention it's necessary to install a small wood block into notched-sdb on bottom of slider to screw-mount the support post's hinge onto the slider, pic looking upward from below slider:

[westend]

Thanks for posting, pictures and all.

FWIW, I've used extruded foam board in windows for insulation with great results. I taped the foam board edges and made a tape "flap" for easy removal. The OP's method precludes storage of the foam when not in use.

Very nice modification!

[BarneyS]

Gypsy62 wrote:
Thread re-born at "soundproofing".
For some reason, on this thread Master has nixed pics, probably killed the thread altogether.

What are you talking about? This thread is still alive and the pictures show just fine.
In addition, here is a link to your other thread. In that one, I edited your opening post to fix the links to your pictures so they would match your text. I deleted the 2nd post as that picture is now the first picture in your opening post.
Barney

[Gypsy62]

Thread re-born at "soundproofing".
For some reason, on this thread Master has nixed pics, probably killed the thread altogether.

[Gypsy62]

The center support post is hinged (towards the rear) and the slider just lowers to sit on top the folded post, permitting total window access:

[Gypsy62]

Posts are failing with <1 pic.
Here's the end result without design details:

[Gypsy62]

The completed/installed assemblies in the bedroom protrude less than the OEM curtain frames did.
Even using simple pine and fir, the finished aesthetic effect is reminiscent of wooden fireplace hearths on either side of the bed.
To stunning effect, someone with the resources and will could do a comparable installation using oak/cherry/maple/mahagony/teak/ rosewood...

[Gypsy62]

Chihuahuas! I thought the URL would link to multiple pics, but no? Here goes:







































Soon, I will perform and post a decibel test comparing sound levels with slider up vs down.

[Gypsy62]

My "quick reply" was vaporized, including URL link to pics. Sally forth:



A pita to repeat web-tossed text, so briefly:
The spooled bungee line was great for retaining dvd/CD's in my slide-out contoured shelving, but far too flexible for the over-slider shelves. Eventually swap for wire rope.
For max strength the soffited angle brackets are mounted using toggle bolts. When using toggles in an rv it's crucial to accurately calculate the bolt length; you only have 11/4" of internal wall space.
Mini hinge-holes had to be drilled wider for longer screws ahd so the screw-heads would close flush.
The boards are laid across the back of artwork-mounted eyebolts to exhibit how the replicated X geometry permits any piece to be hung in any location using the existing filament.
One pic shows 1/2"SDB laminated to 5/16ths decorative ply for sliders.

[BarneyS]

Take a look at this thread, stuck at the top of this forum for help on posting pictures here. It is really very simple.
1. Go to this site. Click blue "or Select" button.

2. Upload your picture from your computer to the site. That will generate a URL and show your picture in a reduced size.

3. Copy/paste that resulting URL directly into you post. Do not add anything to the URL or delete anything.

4. Your picture will now appear in your post, properly sized for the forums. 🙂

It is as simple as that! Upload, copy, paste. 🙂
Barney

[Gypsy62]

Final notes:
During the slider design phase I realized that the area above the top "mantle" was wasted, so integrated a shelf above the bedroom assemblies. While the "marine-rail" style bungee line was ideal for retaining the DVD/CD's in the custom shelving I built into the slide-out's horseshoe, it is way too flexible for the sliders top shelf. I'll eventually replace it with plastic-coated wire rope.

I also came up with a "suspension solution" to remedy the mold issue under the memory foam mattress that came with rig (premium quality, don't want to toss it). I'll post as separate topic soon.

I'm currently troubleshooting my toad wiring, an '05 jeep liberty CRD behind a '98 37' Allegro Bus; any thread suggestions greatly appreciated!

[Gypsy62]

The eyebolt and C-hook pics demonstrate how you can simply thread a pre-loop through the lower eyebolts and then run the line through that loop, pull it snug, and then tension the line diagonally to the upper opposite C-hook and make a snug loop at the top. This way, you can simply rotate the C-hook 180deg, slide the loop off, gently lower the artwork while threading the line through the artworks eyebolts to remove. The filament will still be secured to the walls lower eyebolts, preventing line loss/snafu aggravation. If the line is properly snug, it's not always a breeze re-mounting the art, but with focus, patience and practice you get the hang of the loop-and-rotate with the upper C-hooks.
Better ideas always welcome.