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Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

fulltimin
Nomad
Nomad
Started to look into some water damage in the kitchen of our 83 Pace Arrow. The more I looked, the more I found. I have some pics of the damage so far. Anyone interested in following a rebuild thread?
If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.

-------------------------------------------------

Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.
8,452 REPLIES 8,452

fulltimin
Nomad
Nomad
Today really didn't turn out any better than yesterday did.

My plan was to do my normal work for my niece this morning, from home, and then head for the motor home and get some work done.

I was informed this morning, that we had a little shopping to do today, some of it for Christmas.

Ok, no problem. We headed out just after noon today, and due to a series of events that transpired, did not get home and settled in until nearly 8:00 pm. Well, if I want to sleep tonight, I better not go out there and get "wound up" as they say.

So, I did some paper work this evening, and by the time that was all done, it was about time to post tonight.

So, yea, no new pics tonight. Bummer.

Ah, well, tomorrow is another day. I'll give it another shot tomorrow.

Hey, Christmas is just right around the corner. Hope you are about ready! ๐Ÿ™‚
If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.

-------------------------------------------------

Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.

fulltimin
Nomad
Nomad
tempforce wrote:
fulltimin wrote:
And here is the back side of the door, with and without caulk....




When installing anything, don't use the sink type putty, use the rubberized putty. It wonk let the screws loosen. Or water to work in like when the plumbers putty wears.



The adhesive I've been using on some areas is ChemLink M-1. Once that is cured, it's very unlikely to crack or leak for a long time to come.

I am planning to eliminate as many holes in both the sides and roof as possible. That's a good way to eliminate leaks.
If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.

-------------------------------------------------

Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.

fulltimin
Nomad
Nomad
tempforce wrote:
fulltimin wrote:
Now we get a look at those 2 screws from the inside. Yes, they are rusty from water intrusion, and yes, the plywood is discolored from being wet.






So, after looking at this, it appears that, in addition to checking the roof caulking and resealing it every so often, we are supposed to pull every window, door, gasket, screw, or anything else that penetrates the sides, front and back of a motor home, and reseal them as well!

Can you imagine if you had to do this every few years to your house, just like we are expected to do with an rv?

Arggggg!

Yea, it's time to do something different when this thing goes back together to prevent this from having a repeat failure.

If we fix it the same way it was designed originally, and depend only on caulk, like the factory did, no doubt we will have the same failure that occurred the first time.

What's that you say? Doing the same thing over and over expecting different results is just plain crazy? Ah, yea.


When I used to work on r.v.'s, I put cool seal over every screw before putting on the vinyl trim.




Adding any kind of "good" sealant is a step in the correct direction. Unfortunately, rv's are not an example of "good" design.

Manufacturing is a juggling act based on price. How much labor is it going to take to assemble the rv? What can we do differently to cut down on the amount of time it takes to assemble it? Can we use cheaper components to put it together? Will those components hold together long enough to survive the original owner's expected time of ownership?

I used to work in a manufacturing plant. Not an rv plant, but manufacturing, non the less.

I've seen how corporate works to make their product less expensively, faster or quicker, with less labor, cheaper materials, etc.

My goal is to try to cut down on as many possible leak points as possible. We'll see how this progresses.
If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.

-------------------------------------------------

Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.

fulltimin
Nomad
Nomad
tempforce wrote:
fulltimin wrote:
In this pic, we can see that the aluminum was split at the very top in the center. It didn't match perfectly, but I guess it was close enough.




Just found your project, that trim piece seam, should be at the bottom. Maybe they did it this way, for some reason. Being upside down, is asking for a leak.




Yup. There was a bunch of stuff on this rv that was just asking for a leak. Lol.
If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.

-------------------------------------------------

Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.

tempforce
Explorer
Explorer
fulltimin wrote:
And here is the back side of the door, with and without caulk....




When installing anything, don't use the sink type putty, use the rubberized putty. It wonk let the screws loosen. Or water to work in like when the plumbers putty wears.

somewhere in the texas 'lost pines'


currently without rv.
'13' Ford Fusion
'83' Ford Ranger with a 2.2 Diesel.
'56' Ford F100, 4.6 32 valve v8, crown vic front suspension.
downsizing from a 1 ton diesel and a 32' trailer, to a 19-21' trailer for the '56'.

tempforce
Explorer
Explorer
fulltimin wrote:
Now we get a look at those 2 screws from the inside. Yes, they are rusty from water intrusion, and yes, the plywood is discolored from being wet.






So, after looking at this, it appears that, in addition to checking the roof caulking and resealing it every so often, we are supposed to pull every window, door, gasket, screw, or anything else that penetrates the sides, front and back of a motor home, and reseal them as well!

Can you imagine if you had to do this every few years to your house, just like we are expected to do with an rv?

Arggggg!

Yea, it's time to do something different when this thing goes back together to prevent this from having a repeat failure.

If we fix it the same way it was designed originally, and depend only on caulk, like the factory did, no doubt we will have the same failure that occurred the first time.

What's that you say? Doing the same thing over and over expecting different results is just plain crazy? Ah, yea.


When I used to work on r.v.'s, I put cool seal over every screw before putting on the vinyl trim.

somewhere in the texas 'lost pines'


currently without rv.
'13' Ford Fusion
'83' Ford Ranger with a 2.2 Diesel.
'56' Ford F100, 4.6 32 valve v8, crown vic front suspension.
downsizing from a 1 ton diesel and a 32' trailer, to a 19-21' trailer for the '56'.

tempforce
Explorer
Explorer
fulltimin wrote:
In this pic, we can see that the aluminum was split at the very top in the center. It didn't match perfectly, but I guess it was close enough.




Just found your project, that trim piece seam, should be at the bottom. Maybe they did it this way, for some reason. Being upside down, is asking for a leak.

somewhere in the texas 'lost pines'


currently without rv.
'13' Ford Fusion
'83' Ford Ranger with a 2.2 Diesel.
'56' Ford F100, 4.6 32 valve v8, crown vic front suspension.
downsizing from a 1 ton diesel and a 32' trailer, to a 19-21' trailer for the '56'.

STBRetired
Explorer
Explorer
fulltimin wrote:


How long did it take you to drink all that wine? Lol.

That backsplash looks great. Thanks for posting the pics. Feel free to post the motor home backsplash pics here after you are done. Thanks.

Thanks.
It took way less time to drink all that wine than it probably should have. LOL Expect that we will have another hundred or so corks to bring back home with us unless DW decides to get crafty.
We'll see where you are in your process before I post on your thread. Will start a new one, most likely, and just put a link on yours.
1999 Newmar MACA 3796 F53 6.8L
2016 Ford Edge Sport
Roadmaster Sterling A/T with Brake Buddy Select

fulltimin
Nomad
Nomad
Spent most of the day at our niece's today, so by the time we got home it was way after dark again, so I just took the night off.

Don't have much planned for tomorrow, so I think I should be able to start putting the plywood on the walls.

Pics tomorrow!
If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.

-------------------------------------------------

Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.

fulltimin
Nomad
Nomad
STBRetired wrote:
fulltimin wrote:


As far as wall covering, it's not going to be the same throughout the coach. I plan on breaking it up a little, between the front half and the back half.

I'll have to finalize that with the wife. It would be nice to use 4 x 8 sheets, but I'm not sure it will all end up like that.

At least part will probably end up being wainscot, most likely in the Living area.


I was looking at the 1/8" plywood you used for the wheel well mold and thinking that it had some pretty nice grain. You can find 1/4" thick hardwood trim in various widths (we got some at Menards, but they might not be where you are) and use it as an applique to make it look like wainscot or Shaker style cabinetry.




I wish I could buy some more of that. That was part of a left over piece I had bought from Home Depot. Unfortunately, they no longer handle it. When I bought the original, they had a big stack of them, and I only bought one to try it out, figuring, I can always go back and buy more later. Oops.

Going to Menards for me is a 600 mile round trip. Probably a little farther than I want to go for a some sheets of 1/8" plywood.

The grain on the 1/4" plywood I bought, is kind of nice as well. The stuff I have on the roof, is the 1/4" as well, and I kind of like the looks of it.

I'll have to see how things progress, and see what momma wants.
If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.

-------------------------------------------------

Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.

fulltimin
Nomad
Nomad
STBRetired wrote:
Well, first we have 2 1-gallon ziplock bags full of cork halves.

These will be coming with us when we head south in a few weeks. I will pry the annoying mirrors off the wall of the MH and we will affix the corks to the wall in their place with some high temp commercial hot glue. When we are done, it will look similar to this, which is in our S&B.

Click For Full-Size Image.
This was done about 10 years ago. The only difference is we drink better wine now. Will post pics when we are done with the MH. Either here or on a separate thread.




How long did it take you to drink all that wine? Lol.

That backsplash looks great. Thanks for posting the pics. Feel free to post the motor home backsplash pics here after you are done. Thanks.
If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.

-------------------------------------------------

Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.

fulltimin
Nomad
Nomad
Bill.Satellite wrote:
Google Wine Cork Backsplash and you will see dozens of images.



I did, and there are definitely a bunch out there. I just wanted to see what STB had done.
If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.

-------------------------------------------------

Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.

STBRetired
Explorer
Explorer
fulltimin wrote:


As far as wall covering, it's not going to be the same throughout the coach. I plan on breaking it up a little, between the front half and the back half.

I'll have to finalize that with the wife. It would be nice to use 4 x 8 sheets, but I'm not sure it will all end up like that.

At least part will probably end up being wainscot, most likely in the Living area.


I was looking at the 1/8" plywood you used for the wheel well mold and thinking that it had some pretty nice grain. You can find 1/4" thick hardwood trim in various widths (we got some at Menards, but they might not be where you are) and use it as an applique to make it look like wainscot or Shaker style cabinetry.
1999 Newmar MACA 3796 F53 6.8L
2016 Ford Edge Sport
Roadmaster Sterling A/T with Brake Buddy Select

STBRetired
Explorer
Explorer
Well, first we have 2 1-gallon ziplock bags full of cork halves.

These will be coming with us when we head south in a few weeks. I will pry the annoying mirrors off the wall of the MH and we will affix the corks to the wall in their place with some high temp commercial hot glue. When we are done, it will look similar to this, which is in our S&B.

Click For Full-Size Image.
This was done about 10 years ago. The only difference is we drink better wine now. Will post pics when we are done with the MH. Either here or on a separate thread.
1999 Newmar MACA 3796 F53 6.8L
2016 Ford Edge Sport
Roadmaster Sterling A/T with Brake Buddy Select

Bill_Satellite
Explorer II
Explorer II
Google Wine Cork Backsplash and you will see dozens of images.
What I post is my 2 cents and nothing more. Please don't read anything into my post that's not there. If you disagree, that's OK.
Can't we all just get along?