Ok, here is another possible floor plan, with the yellow lines indicating windows, and the red line indicating the new location of the door.
The left side would be right next to the drivers and co-pilots seats, and the right side would be the rear - obviously.
The left side would be right next to the drivers and co-pilots seats, and the right side would be the rear - obviously.
Ok, back to the pic with things laid out. This is not necessarily how it will end up, but it is a starting point, and you can easily see how to move things around, and you will know in a hurry if it will fit.
Just make sure you measure your devices accurately, and it's all good.
Now before you tell me - this is old technology - we use cad software and can do all that in a hurry.
I know that. If you already have cad software and are experienced using it - go for it.
I don't, and by the time I learn the program, and do this, I can use this antique method, and be constructing things, long before I am done with the computer.
This method works fine, takes little time, and virtually anyone can do it, even with no computer.
After all, we only have a rough 8' x 19' box. We are not designing a 100,000 sq ft building.
So, have at it, if it's of any use to you.
Just make sure you measure your devices accurately, and it's all good.
Now before you tell me - this is old technology - we use cad software and can do all that in a hurry.
I know that. If you already have cad software and are experienced using it - go for it.
I don't, and by the time I learn the program, and do this, I can use this antique method, and be constructing things, long before I am done with the computer.
This method works fine, takes little time, and virtually anyone can do it, even with no computer.
After all, we only have a rough 8' x 19' box. We are not designing a 100,000 sq ft building.
So, have at it, if it's of any use to you.
Here, I flipped over the dinette/table and chairs, so you can see how the graph looks. 1 square = 1/4 foot, or 3 inches.
So, if you need something 2 feet - you count off 8 blocks and cut. Now we have things laid out to size, and it is easy to see how much room we have available to walk around, and so on.
So, if you need something 2 feet - you count off 8 blocks and cut. Now we have things laid out to size, and it is easy to see how much room we have available to walk around, and so on.
Next, I created some paper templates of the items that I need to put inside this box.
I measured items that I already have for size, and created some templates for some that I don't have yet.
I cut out some templates of a stove, fridge, shower, commode, shower, table and chairs or dinette booth - same size, sofa, and counter with sink.
Since I have the windows and door laid out, now all I have to do is move my templates around until I come up with a floor plan I like.
Simple, huh?
I measured items that I already have for size, and created some templates for some that I don't have yet.
I cut out some templates of a stove, fridge, shower, commode, shower, table and chairs or dinette booth - same size, sofa, and counter with sink.
Since I have the windows and door laid out, now all I have to do is move my templates around until I come up with a floor plan I like.
Simple, huh?
Ok, tonight we have another look into redesigning the interior of our motor home. This is a technique that works very well, is easy enough for almost anyone to do, and actually takes only a little time.
First, I created some graph paper, since I had none, and didn't see the need in spending money to get some. I only need a few pages, so I printed a blank spreadsheet with the graph lines, in 1/4" squares.
Comes out just like graph paper, but only took a couple minutes, and I was good to go. Since we are doing 1/4" per foot, the lines are equal to the internal size of our motor home.
So, as the first step, I took measurements of the window size and location and marked that on the graph paper. They are shown here in yellow. I simulated a door, on the same side, near the back, in red.
First, I created some graph paper, since I had none, and didn't see the need in spending money to get some. I only need a few pages, so I printed a blank spreadsheet with the graph lines, in 1/4" squares.
Comes out just like graph paper, but only took a couple minutes, and I was good to go. Since we are doing 1/4" per foot, the lines are equal to the internal size of our motor home.
So, as the first step, I took measurements of the window size and location and marked that on the graph paper. They are shown here in yellow. I simulated a door, on the same side, near the back, in red.
fulltimin wrote:
So, we are back to the original drawing, as we can now see how the frame of this thing fits together.
Piece of cake, isn't it.
Hey, it's not rocket science, although there are a lot of pieces that fit together, they fit together rather simply.
Agreed on the "it's not rocket science" part. When I did our TT I kept saying "the people who built this were not smarter than I am - I can figure it out".
That wasn't knocking them or boosting me, it was more of a statement of sometimes we over complicate things. It's just a big box, nothing more, nothing less.
So, we are back to the original drawing, as we can now see how the frame of this thing fits together.
Piece of cake, isn't it.
Hey, it's not rocket science, although there are a lot of pieces that fit together, they fit together rather simply.
Piece of cake, isn't it.
Hey, it's not rocket science, although there are a lot of pieces that fit together, they fit together rather simply.
On this next drawing, we have the roofing attached to the walls.
In the corner, there is a green angle steel, which is bolted to the top of the wall studs/top plate.
That angle is also bolted (blue) to a piece of 1.5 x 1.5" square tubing, which is part of the roof. There also, is a piece of aluminum on the inside corner, (green), which is bolted into the steel angle. That red piece of 1.5 x 1.5 inch steel is then welded to a piece of 1 x 1.5" roof joist.
The joist is covered by 1/2 inch plywood. Not the entire roof, just the joist. Then the entire roof is covered by 1/8" plywood, which is covered by fiberglass.
In the corner, there is a green angle steel, which is bolted to the top of the wall studs/top plate.
That angle is also bolted (blue) to a piece of 1.5 x 1.5" square tubing, which is part of the roof. There also, is a piece of aluminum on the inside corner, (green), which is bolted into the steel angle. That red piece of 1.5 x 1.5 inch steel is then welded to a piece of 1 x 1.5" roof joist.
The joist is covered by 1/2 inch plywood. Not the entire roof, just the joist. Then the entire roof is covered by 1/8" plywood, which is covered by fiberglass.
This next diagram is a larger version of the flooring being attached to the walls, or the walls being attached to the flooring, which ever you prefer.
