Grease Cups at Tie Rod Ends need Replacement $$$$?

[deandec]

I have a Gillig Bus Chassis. An email to Gillig Corp was no help.

As the title says, my tie rod grease cups are cracked and need to be replaced.

I have either a Dana or Rockwell 11,000 lb front suspension.

Does anyone have experience or idea what the replacement cost of the tie rod ends or grease cups could be installed?

[Bill_Satellite]

Are the boots bad or are the cups (metal housing) cracked? Is there excess play or just some oil? I might be considering replacing the tie rod ends depending upon your answers. While my coach is nothing like your coach (27 year old bus conversion) I had to replace the tie rod ends on 2 front end tie rods. It cost about $1500 at a non-Prevost service facility (3 times that from Prevost). I think I am going to need to do King Pins in the near future but that's another story!

[DSDP_Don]

Scott...Have you tried running a small drill bit into the fitting....you have nothing to lose.

[Geocritter]

RLS7201 wrote:
If you elect to replace the boots yourself, they are not expensive. And they are easy to change. Remove the cotter key, remove the nut, smack the side of the spindle with a big hammer and the tie rod will jump out of the hole. It's been done that way for years by professionals.
New tie rod boots

Richard

May seem counterintuitive but Richard's right, it's simple to do and it works every time!

Steve

[rgatijnet1]

Use one of these if your grease fittings are clogged. Zerk plug remover

[FIRE_UP]

wolfe10 wrote:
Dean,

Reality is that the boots were never meant to go 10+ years.

My "realistic" suggestion is to NOT worry with replacing a good tire rod end or attempt to find the boots (a snipe hunt).

Just grease the joints frequently and don't replace until there is mechanical play in them. I have seen joints treated this way go another 5 years/50,000+ miles.

Brett,
My case is similar to the OPs only, my issue is, both zerks have been damaged due to improper jacking or, collision with low road objects or ???? In any case, neither will accept grease. I have removed, re-tapped and inserted new grease zerks but, still no go.

My coach is an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the C-7 330HP CAT. It's got the 10,410 lb. front axle. According to "Access Freightliner" drawings, I could one of two styles of tie-rod ends. I have narrowed it down to one particular set.

Un like the OP, who can continue to use his due to the fact that they will still accept grease, I think I have no choice but to R & R mine. May I ask what you think?

OP, I hope this is not hi-jacking your thread, just related in operation.
Scott

[deandec]

Thanks for the link.

I will talk to them to see if they can cross reference to my chassis.

[RLS7201]

If you elect to replace the boots yourself, they are not expensive. And they are easy to change. Remove the cotter key, remove the nut, smack the side of the spindle with a big hammer and the tie rod will jump out of the hole. It's been done that way for years by professionals.
New tie rod boots

Richard

[deandec]

Brett

Thank you for the response and information/recommendation.

Oregon Motorcoach said a similar thing. (They do not repair this problem but did identify it in my recent chassis inspection.)

Frequent grease is a cheap fix.

[wolfe10]

Dean,

Reality is that the boots were never meant to go 10+ years.

My "realistic" suggestion is to NOT worry with replacing a good tire rod end or attempt to find the boots (a snipe hunt).

Just grease the joints frequently and don't replace until there is mechanical play in them. I have seen joints treated this way go another 5 years/50,000+ miles.