Need satellite help !

[titleman]

Just took delivery of a new 2017 Class C Jayco Greyhawk 29MV yesterday. It has a front entertainment center and a BR TV. It has only one coax connection outside and that is for cable I am told. Of course it has an over/air ant. also. According to tech at dealership it is wired for roof top satellite which I will not be installing. I will be purchasing a Winegard Carryout G2. I will be using a Direct TV Receiver Model 24.

My goal is to be able to have standard satellite, park cable and over air service available to both TVs. Behind The front TV I have the typical plate with ant. booster and another small plate that says roof satellite and two connections on it.

It appears to me that to accomplish my goal I will need to install a new outside connection and run R6 cable up to the receiver to provide satellite service. Then to be able just to flip a switch and not have to disconnect and reconnect the cable and satellite to access the particular source I want to watch, I would need some sort of switch. What do I need and where and how do I install such an apparatus, if it will fact work like that.

Sorry for such a drawn out post----just don't know else to explain. Any and all suggestions will sure be appreciated.

Thanks very much!!!

[Bill_Satellite]

There should also be an on/off switch on the Jack wall plate with some kind of an indicator light. The light would be on for OTA and must be off for Cable/Satellite.

[titleman]

Bill.SatelliteOne more time please. I hate to be such a pest but I just can't seem to get this correct or either I have a faulty piece of equipment in the system.

I have the G2+ and the power inserter all set up and connected to the H24 receiver correctly. From back of receiver to the RF Modulator I ran the y/w/r RCA cables. I am assuming I have them properly connected. Color to color on both ends. Then I have a coax ran from the "to TV" connection on the Modulator to the B input on the A/B switch. I have nothing connected to the "ant in" connecter on the modulator.

Now the King wall plate with power injector as I previously mentioned. On the back side of it there are three connections marked "cable TV in", King Jack ant in" and "TV 2 Out". No cable was attached to the TV 2 out. On the front of the plate is one coax connector for TV 1 out. So I removed the Cable TV coax on the back side and ran it to A input on A/B switch as you said. Then ran a coax from the output on the A/B switch back to the connector on back that I had removed the Cable TV from. Next I ran a coax from the TV 1 connector on the front of said plate to the 3 way splitter which supposedly runs to all TVS.

O course I have to turn on the main TV with its own remote control and then use the Direct TV remote for the receiver. Just wondering if I am not doing something correct with the remotes to get to the menu on the receiver. Just says no signal..

Bill I appreciate your time and patience very sincerely. If you see what I am doing wrong please let me know.

[titleman]

I have followed Bill's instructions the best I can and after carefully wiring it all up---cant get it to work.I know I am apparently misunderstanding or doing something wrong. Its bound to be some error between the receiver and the RF modulator or the modulator and A/B switch.

The RF Modulator two coax connections one labeled "ant in" and the other "to TV" along with the YWR RCA cables on the other end which I
attached to the back of the H24 DTY receiver. I know I must connect a coax from one of those two coax connections on the modulator to either the A or the B on the A/B Switch. Which connection on the Modulator do I connect to?

The A/B switch has 3 coax connections: the one in the center is marked TV so I ran a coax from it to the 3 way splitter which distributes to al 3 TVs. The other two are the A and B sides of which i ran one to the modulator as mentioned above. The other connects to coax connector on the face plate of the King Power Injector plate which has the OTA and the Park cable attached to back.

Bill has done super in advising me but as I mentioned I know I am mis understanding something. Anyone have any idea what I am doing wrong?

[Bill_Satellite]

That all sounds correct. If you call the side of the A/B switch which has 2 connection the input side and the side of the A/B switch which had only 1 connection the output side then you remove the coax that runs to the 3 way splitter and connected it to the single output side of the A/B switch. The receiver then goes to 1 input and a jumper connects between the connection you removed and the other input.
All the rest is correct as well. Ignore the TV input on the RF modulator.

[titleman]

Bill SatelliteHope this is the last time I have to bug you. If you would look this over and tell me if it is correct or incorrect I would appreciate it.

Beginning at the King Power Injector wall plate which has the coax from the O/A ant. AND the coax from the outside Cable connection connected to the back of it (along with the 2 12V wires). The 3rd connector has nothing attached:

1.Run a coax from front of plate connection to the "A" side of A/B switch.
2.Run a coax from "B" side of A/B switch to "To TV" connection on RF Modulator.
3.Run a coax from "TV" connection on A/B switch to three way splitter which feeds all 3 TVs.

From RF Modulator:
Run Y/W/R RCA cables to Direct TV H24 receiver.

From Winegard G2 Plus Carryout:
1.Run coax to Winegard Power Inserter.
2. Run supplied 3 foot cable to H24 receiver.

There is another coax connection on Modulator that is marked "ant in".
does it just remain open?

Perhaps an old guy like myself (77) should not even attempt something like this especially when your knowledge of the subject is somewhere between zero and none, but gotta have something to keep busy with.

Thank You Very much

[Bill_Satellite]

So, between where the coax leaves the wall plate and before it gets to the 3-way splitter you will install the A/B switch. The coax coming from the wall plate will go to the A side and the coax coming from the receivers RF modulator will go to the B side (either can go to either side). The A/B switch will work just as previously described.

[titleman]

Bill.Satellite Sorry to bug you again. Bought the G2+ Carryout and Modulator and A/B Switch. Went out to MH to day thinking I could finally get at least a start on this project.

The coach does not have the standard Winegard signal booster amplifier--it has a a King Jack Power Injector which hoes not have the typical 12 volt receptical on the face as Winegard but does have the push button to send 12 volt to the antenna. Pulled it out of wall and it has 3 coax connectors and of course the 2 12V wires. The connectors are positioned differently than the Winegard. It has 2 coax cables connected: one to the antenna and one to the outdoor Cable connection. Nothing hooked to the 3rd connector. The coax hooked to the front of the face plate goes back in the wall and hooks to a 3 way splitter. The 3 coaxes leaving the splitter I suppose goes to Main TV, BR TV and basement hookup for outdoor TV.

Looked it up on internet and it says "it is not an amplifier and no devices other than those shown below should be connected" which just shows the back of the plate with Cable In TV, King Jack and TV 2 Out along with 12V wires.

Will this thing work with the procedure you have explained to me? Or do I just need to start all over and and forget about trying to accomplish the goal I tried to explain in the earlier post? Once again---Thanks so much for all the time you have spent helping me.

[Bill_Satellite]

So once you have the RF Modulator and the receiver in your coach the modulator simply plugs into the receiver and then you follow my directions on what plugs into what. The Cable coax removed from the wall plate will plug into B and the output from the receiver, by way of the modulator, will plug into A (obviously interchangeable if you have a preference). You then connect a short coax between the A/B switch and the connection on the wall plate where you remove the Cable coax.

[titleman]

Bill.Satellite
I have the modulator and the A/B switch coming and need to purchase the Carryout. I see the newer G2+ has a power inserter instead of the 12 volt line which along with the coax connected to the previous Carryouts. I used one of those several years. Will this Inserter cause any changes to the method of setup you have described for me?

Also, at what point or location in the plan will the A/B switch and the RF Modulator be installed? I can't get my head wrapped around all this and about the time I think I have I get confused. I know once I actually start I will get it all worked out. Just over thinking I imagine.
Thanks again
Joe

[Bill_Satellite]

Never consider yourself dumb just because you are working to learn something new to you.
Something like this from Office Depot:
RF Modulator
but Wal-Mart and others carry similar devices. I was always able to find one that simply had the 3 RCA inputs and 1 coax output. It seems that these days that's not enough so the have added a second, unnecessary, coax input.
As I mentioned previously, I recommend the Radio Shack high isolation A/B switch:
A/B Switch
Not sure if it's still available at the stores but if you can find another high isolation A/B switch it should work just as well.

[titleman]

Thanks very much Bill. Only thing I am not pretty clear on is what RF Modulator do I need. When I look online I find some in the $70 and $80 range and then some in the $9 to $15 buck range, There is bound to be a big difference and I dont understand which one I need. Also is there any particular AB switch I should get?

Sorry to be so dumb but as you can tell, this is like Greek to me.
Again, thanks so much!!

[Bill_Satellite]

So, all you need to do is remove the Winegard power supply wall plate. On the back side, remove the "Cable" Coax from wall plate and connect that to the A side of the A/B switch. Connect the satellite output to the B side and run a coax jumper from the single A/B output right back to the Cable connection on the wall plate.
As mentioned earlier, you will need to get the RF modulator for the receiver with will provide you with the necessary coax output to run to the splitter. At this point either the satellite output or Cable will go to your TV's when you power off the Winegard power supply (wall plate) depending upon whether you select A or B and OTA TV signal will be sent to the TV's when the power button on the Winegard power supply is on no matter what the position of the A/B switch.
Does that make sense?

[titleman]

Many thanks to everyone for your help and taking time to give me your opinions. It is much appreciated.

BILL.SATELLITE-----I think you nailed on the head as to what I am trying to accomplish. If you would be so kind as to furnish me with the wiring information you mentioned, it would be very helpful and I think I can get started with this project.

Thanks again to everyone and if you have further ideas I would sure like to hear them

[CA_Traveler]

Be sure to consider where to place the receiver and how to route related wiring.

FYI A note on receiver remotes: My rig has very limited cabinet depth space for a IR receiver, generally mounted horizontal, which requires line of sight to the remote. There are however IR remote extenders available for a reasonable price.

And with a receiver that supports RF remote (HR24, HR44 and probably others) I mounted the receiver vertically on a back cabinet wall. It could even be in a different room as RF does not require line of sight. The DTV RF remote also turns the IR TV on/off so the TV remote is only used for switching to DVD etc. There are after market remotes that provide full control with one remote.