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Using a Hopper 3 with a Winegard Travler

TechWriter
Explorer
Explorer
It works!
2004 - 2010 Part Timer (35โ€™ 2004 National RV Sea Breeze 8341 - Workhorse)
2010 - 2021 Full Timer (41โ€™ 2001 Newmar Mountain Aire 4095 DP - Cummins)
2021 - ??? Part Timer (31โ€™ 2001 National RV Sea View 8311 - Ford)
www.rvSeniorMoments.com
DISH TV for RVs
3 REPLIES 3

Bill_Satellite
Explorer II
Explorer II
That message can likely be solved as only the "C" port on the antenna is connected to the "brains" of the Trav'ler. It is my "speculation" that if the one live output was to be directed through the "C" port then this issue might be resolved.
What I post is my 2 cents and nothing more. Please don't read anything into my post that's not there. If you disagree, that's OK.
Can't we all just get along?

TechWriter
Explorer
Explorer
Bill.Satellite wrote:
TechWriter wrote:
It works!


It almost didn't.

Someone on another forum asked if I had powered up the Travler with the Hopper connected. I had not.

When I tested it today with both connected together, most times I'd get the Travler Blue Sceen of Death -- "No LNB Voltage" -- as after the message the Travler would shut down and stow itself.

Very bad mojo.

Luckily, I found a simple workaround -- use an AB switch to disconnect the Hopper 3 during Travler operation. Then reconnect the Hopper after sat acquisition.

Bill.Satellite wrote:

That's pretty awesome! In reading how to figure out which cable to use and connecting it to the Hopper, wouldn't it be easy enough to just "beep" the cable from the LNB to the base when you swap LNB's? I assume you know which is the "good" port on the LNB and you would then know that you are connecting the port A cable (as an example to the good port. You then verify that The A entry is connected to the A exit and you have all the information you need.


Yeah, another "duh" moment. I added info on using a simple continuity tester.


Bill.Satellite wrote:

This might be the thing that gets me to move to Dish. DirecTV is SOOO expensive these days I really would not mind signing a new contract for a dramatically lower price (even if it's only 2 years). The savings would be huge!
The only thing I would miss is being able to do some time shifting with my DNS service from NY and LA


Don't rush. Even if you're tempted, I'd wait a few months to see how this all shakes out.

BTW, school me on "No LNB Voltage".
2004 - 2010 Part Timer (35โ€™ 2004 National RV Sea Breeze 8341 - Workhorse)
2010 - 2021 Full Timer (41โ€™ 2001 Newmar Mountain Aire 4095 DP - Cummins)
2021 - ??? Part Timer (31โ€™ 2001 National RV Sea View 8311 - Ford)
www.rvSeniorMoments.com
DISH TV for RVs

Bill_Satellite
Explorer II
Explorer II
TechWriter wrote:
It works!


That's pretty awesome! In reading how to figure out which cable to use and connecting it to the Hopper, wouldn't it be easy enough to just "beep" the cable from the LNB to the base when you swap LNB's? I assume you know which is the "good" port on the LNB and you would then know that you are connecting the port A cable (as an example to the good port. You then verify that The A entry is connected to the A exit and you have all the information you need.
This might be the thing that gets me to move to Dish. DirecTV is SOOO expensive these days I really would not mind signing a new contract for a dramatically lower price (even if it's only 2 years). The savings would be huge!
The only thing I would miss is being able to do some time shifting with my DNS service from NY and LA
What I post is my 2 cents and nothing more. Please don't read anything into my post that's not there. If you disagree, that's OK.
Can't we all just get along?