Watts 263A Problem
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โMar-21-2018 03:54 AM
I have been using a Watts 263A water pressure regulator full time since 2011. It has required disassembly and cleaning plus a rebuild kit twice during this period. Primarily due to high lime content at my home base site. 2-3 weeks ago I thought I needed new filters due to low water flow. The filters didn't help so I finally isolated the flow issue to the 263A. When I had cleaned it and installed the kit parts several weeks back I soaked the body in CLR, blew it out with high pressure air, etc. and put it back in service as I had done several years previous. So I bought a new one which I installed yesterday and my good flow rate is back.
Does anyone have any ideas where the plug is in my original 263A? I simply can't find it and after all parts are removed it is just a hunk of brass.
Thanks.
Does anyone have any ideas where the plug is in my original 263A? I simply can't find it and after all parts are removed it is just a hunk of brass.
Thanks.
Ed
KM4STL
2006 GMC 2500HD CCSB 4x4 Duramax/Allison, Titan 52 gallon fuel tank, Prodigy Controller, B&W Companion Hitch, Progressive Industries EMS-PT50C, TST Systems 507 TPMS
2010 Jayco Designer 35RLTS,Cummins/Onan RV QG 5500 EVAP
Fulltime since 2010
KM4STL
2006 GMC 2500HD CCSB 4x4 Duramax/Allison, Titan 52 gallon fuel tank, Prodigy Controller, B&W Companion Hitch, Progressive Industries EMS-PT50C, TST Systems 507 TPMS
2010 Jayco Designer 35RLTS,Cummins/Onan RV QG 5500 EVAP
Fulltime since 2010
4 REPLIES 4
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โMar-26-2018 04:17 AM
I have a 2 stage filter right after the regulator so the water that goes through it isn't filtered. My first filter is a particulate filter and the second is charcoal. Both are 1 micron. The regulator is never outside when it freezes and it has worked perfectly for almost 8 years other than I cleaned it and installed a repair kit 3 three times over the years when it was just a bit off maintaining the set pressure. Flow has always been great and I set my pressure at 55psi. Just normal wear and tear, except this last time the kit and new parts didn't help. There is high silt content where I spend my summers, but I'm only there 4 months/year. I'm thinking I missed something in the cleaning and I'm going to take it apart and try again. I do use CLR to break down the buildup whatever it is.
The new 263A is working perfectly so I obviously missed something in the cleaning/kit install with my old one.
Thank you for your help.
The new 263A is working perfectly so I obviously missed something in the cleaning/kit install with my old one.
Thank you for your help.
Ed
KM4STL
2006 GMC 2500HD CCSB 4x4 Duramax/Allison, Titan 52 gallon fuel tank, Prodigy Controller, B&W Companion Hitch, Progressive Industries EMS-PT50C, TST Systems 507 TPMS
2010 Jayco Designer 35RLTS,Cummins/Onan RV QG 5500 EVAP
Fulltime since 2010
KM4STL
2006 GMC 2500HD CCSB 4x4 Duramax/Allison, Titan 52 gallon fuel tank, Prodigy Controller, B&W Companion Hitch, Progressive Industries EMS-PT50C, TST Systems 507 TPMS
2010 Jayco Designer 35RLTS,Cummins/Onan RV QG 5500 EVAP
Fulltime since 2010
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โMar-24-2018 08:06 AM
Don't know if this'll help or not:
Have you ever had the water tested so you know exactly what you've got and what's possible to do about it? Is it added lime to treat hardness or is it calcium? Do you have filters ahead of or after the regulator and what type of filters? Is there possibly silt in the water? Is it outside or inside and if inside, did you make any other mods to the piping? What pressure do you have it set for?
If it's calcium in the water, there's basically nothing you can do and there's no filters to remove it. We have a high calcium content in our well water at home and the regulator has never been a problem in 10 years of daily use. When I was building our house, I was told by a couple of well & plumbing experts to always install filters after the regulator (and pressure tanks) but have forgotten why. You could always use a sediment filter(s) ahead of the 263A and any others after it.
We've been using a 263A for 4 seasons of 50-60 nights/year so far and never had a problem with it. I installed it under the kitchen sink and made some piping mods. In my mind, doing whatever you can with the piping and fittings to improve flow and reduce pressure drop will help. I removed the plastic city water inlet with a brass body type and removed the cheapo check valve in it that all city water inlets have and installed a commercial grade brass one. Then I used 1/2" brass from the city water inlet to the regulator so that if CG water pressure is every very high (like towards 200 psi), the brass pipe, fittings & regulator will handle it okay. I removed the screen on the city water inlet. I used filters that have a high flow rate and won't plug up quickly - 2 sediment, a 1 micron ceramic cartridge and a 0.2 micron "ultrafiltration" cartridge and have been trouble free.
I also installed a gauge before and after the regulator which will tell you what pressure drop is across it and if it's not performing properly.
Have you ever had the water tested so you know exactly what you've got and what's possible to do about it? Is it added lime to treat hardness or is it calcium? Do you have filters ahead of or after the regulator and what type of filters? Is there possibly silt in the water? Is it outside or inside and if inside, did you make any other mods to the piping? What pressure do you have it set for?
If it's calcium in the water, there's basically nothing you can do and there's no filters to remove it. We have a high calcium content in our well water at home and the regulator has never been a problem in 10 years of daily use. When I was building our house, I was told by a couple of well & plumbing experts to always install filters after the regulator (and pressure tanks) but have forgotten why. You could always use a sediment filter(s) ahead of the 263A and any others after it.
We've been using a 263A for 4 seasons of 50-60 nights/year so far and never had a problem with it. I installed it under the kitchen sink and made some piping mods. In my mind, doing whatever you can with the piping and fittings to improve flow and reduce pressure drop will help. I removed the plastic city water inlet with a brass body type and removed the cheapo check valve in it that all city water inlets have and installed a commercial grade brass one. Then I used 1/2" brass from the city water inlet to the regulator so that if CG water pressure is every very high (like towards 200 psi), the brass pipe, fittings & regulator will handle it okay. I removed the screen on the city water inlet. I used filters that have a high flow rate and won't plug up quickly - 2 sediment, a 1 micron ceramic cartridge and a 0.2 micron "ultrafiltration" cartridge and have been trouble free.
I also installed a gauge before and after the regulator which will tell you what pressure drop is across it and if it's not performing properly.
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โMar-21-2018 08:00 AM
wa8yxm wrote:
With age teh diaphraham gets "Stiff" and does not allow the valve to fully open. A Rebulid kit should include a new diaphraham. I need to rebuild mine as well.
I have rebuilt it with a kit 3 times. The last time was just a couple of months ago.
Ed
KM4STL
2006 GMC 2500HD CCSB 4x4 Duramax/Allison, Titan 52 gallon fuel tank, Prodigy Controller, B&W Companion Hitch, Progressive Industries EMS-PT50C, TST Systems 507 TPMS
2010 Jayco Designer 35RLTS,Cummins/Onan RV QG 5500 EVAP
Fulltime since 2010
KM4STL
2006 GMC 2500HD CCSB 4x4 Duramax/Allison, Titan 52 gallon fuel tank, Prodigy Controller, B&W Companion Hitch, Progressive Industries EMS-PT50C, TST Systems 507 TPMS
2010 Jayco Designer 35RLTS,Cummins/Onan RV QG 5500 EVAP
Fulltime since 2010
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โMar-21-2018 06:24 AM
With age teh diaphraham gets "Stiff" and does not allow the valve to fully open. A Rebulid kit should include a new diaphraham. I need to rebuild mine as well.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times