Hi Aarno,
Loaded floor plan drives where the loaded tongue weight will end up. Where you can put gear adds or subtracts from the dry tongue weight. Depending on the dry TW, how much the TW will rise is driven by the floor plan and your gear.
If you can provide a link to or the year/make and model of the new camper I can look it up and give an approxiation of where you might land. This can be closer then just going off of raw % of GVWR.
The Reese hitch, if the hitch is the more recent HP trunion bar hitch, then the DC and the hitch head is all good to 1,700# WD. You can upgrade from the 1,200# bars to 1,500 or 1,700. The hitch shank may or may not need an upgrade. In recent years Reese uprated the 2" shank to be 1,500# capable. Years back it stopped at 1,200#. If your sticker on the shank says, 1,500# in WD then your good to go to 1,500. If the sticker says 1,200#, call them to see if it is usable. I never knew the whole story on how they got the extra rating and did not appear to change much. At the time they never use to have a WD bar bigger than 1,200 so there was no need to rate it higher may be part of the reason.
If you need to go to 1,700# bars, then you will need to go to a 2 1/2" shank. And that will force a reciever change on your truck if you are still on 2".
If you do not know what vintage or type WD hitch you have, post a pic. We can tell.
Hope this helps and good luck with the new rig.
John
2005 Ford F350 Super Duty, 4x4; 6.8L V10 with 4.10 RA, 21,000 GCWR, 11,000 GVWR, upgraded 2 1/2" Towbeast Receiver. Hitched with a 1,700# Reese HP WD, HP Dual Cam to a 2004 Sunline Solaris T310R travel trailer.
