50 amp Smart Energy management system

[goldtop1]

Hi all from sunny Florida. WE have a 2004 Holiday Rambler Ambassador class A RV. My problem, last weekend we were out to Horseshoe Beach. We lost all DC interior lights. All A/C works fine. The display panel in the hall has no lights either,except for the amp meter. The smart board in the breaker box is a 00683-200. In order to upgrade to the newer board you must also get a new display board to communicate with the newer 00894-200 board. My question , has anyone done this procedure? Any help would be appreciated. I hooked up the A/C side and plugged in the 3 prong 12VDC plug. The old board has 4 prongs for the display , and the new board has a 3 prong plug. No instructions enclosed for the cross over from 4to3. Any help will be appreciated!

[dougrainer]

goldtop1 wrote:
Doug hit it on the nose. All I need to know is how the circuit is run from the batteries . I don't have a schematic for the coach. I work on EST fire alarm panels and Bogen Intercoms for our schools here, If I know the trail I can repair the problem. RV's are totally different animals. The circuit and parts are key to repair the problem. Thank you Doug for the ideas on repair. It worked perfectly!

IF you have an Inverter/Charger, the heavy battery cable goes from the coach battery POS post to a 300 amp fuse and then to the Inverter/Charger. This has NOTHING to do with the Battery disconnect system. Then, they run another 12 volt wire(usually 4 or 6 gauge) from the coach battery to that disconnect solenoid. The other side of that solenoid then goes to the Fuse Block and other appliances that may have their own fuse. IF the battery disconnect fails or is turned OFF, the batteries still will charge from the Inverter/Charger and the 120 volt appliances that are Inverted from the Inverter will still come on, IF they do not require a 12 volt source to operate. Doug

[goldtop1]

Doug hit it on the nose. All I need to know is how the circuit is run from the batteries . I don't have a schematic for the coach. I work on EST fire alarm panels and Bogen Intercoms for our schools here, If I know the trail I can repair the problem. RV's are totally different animals. The circuit and parts are key to repair the problem. Thank you Doug for the ideas on repair. It worked perfectly!

[MEXICOWANDERER]

A novice's mistake doing an emergency repair is understandable. Tampering is a defining word. It describes damaging something due to negligence. Please consult with someone knowledgeable or you are going to pay a horrid price. Specifically, ASK BEFORE doing something, not after the damage has been done. That's what the forum is for. When I run into something I do not understand I look for answers or information first then carefully construct a regimen of testing, then repair.

BAD SHORT CIRCUIT (for example). Hook breaker or 100-watt 12-volt lamp in line with positive to limit current. Then start disconnecting fuses or harness until lamp goes out or breaker stops popping.

LACK OF POWER (Relevant to this case) Grab test light. Start at battery. When test light reaches the place where it doesn't glow, start looking.

May I politely ask - do you own a test light?

[dougrainer]

goldtop1 wrote:
Hey Mr. Wizard, I have been working on it for the past half hour. The cutoff switch inside the entry door for the interior 12VDC broke so I took it out HAVE ANOTHER ON ORDER I took a jumper wire and jumped the terminals and low and behold the lights came on. Well for about 15 minutes. The 5 amp inline fuse at the solenoid blew and the lights went off of course.The solenoid got very warm. Any ideas?

The solenoid is a Latching solenoid. NEVER apply constant power to the 2 small activation terminals(jumpering the wires). Go to the solenoid, install a 4 gauge short battery cable between the 2 LARGE posts on that solenoid. Then get a new solenoid and the new switch. Odds are, you have destroyed the latching feature of the solenoid. A Latching solenoid, takes a momentary ground or hot trigger and the solenoid (Latches) to an Open or closed position. They use these because once OPEN or CLOSED, they require NO power to stay in either position. Doug

[dougrainer]

1. It takes BOTH 12 volt and 120 volts to power the Intellitec 50 amp EMS system.
2. So, do you have a problem with NO 12 volts in the unit or you have 2 problems? Doug

[goldtop1]

Hey Mr. Wizard, I have been working on it for the past half hour. The cutoff switch inside the entry door for the interior 12VDC broke so I took it out HAVE ANOTHER ON ORDER I took a jumper wire and jumped the terminals and low and behold the lights came on. Well for about 15 minutes. The 5 amp inline fuse at the solenoid blew and the lights went off of course.The solenoid got very warm. Any ideas?

[MrWizard]

I'm confused
What does the smart energy system control board have to do with DC battery power
You say all your 120v works
I think you need to look for a blown fuse in the DC panel or in the main battery wiring
What about the battery disconnect, could it be off or malfunctioning