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950w 2-Stroke Gen Questions Update

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Updated 22 Feb

Need a new thread on how to work/maintain the 2-stroke 950w gen

This OP built of some posts from old thread now off topic for that thread.
----------------
http://www.kingcanada.com/Files/KCG-950G_manual-eng.pdf

Found this. Adds to the other maintenance advice included here.

It says to ground (Earth ground) it---I never did that and don't with my Honda. Been threads on that topic. I don't plan on grounding it like it says unless folks here say this is different from the Honda for that.

Note about using a surge protector re earlier discussion wrt MSW (not) etc. Does this change anything?

No mention of "breaking in." What do you do different for a break-in period with one of these, and for how long?

Mr Wizard--
"I used to do a lot of 2 stroke honda moped repair, rebuild, hop up etc..
iron cast cylinder with aluminum piston

remove the exhaust, soak in safety solvent, blow out in reverse with compressed air (air in the tail pipe)

but back on the engine and let it run until all the smoke is gone
when first started it will smoke like a fog machine
great way to kill backyard mosquitoes

amisol or other synthetic 2 stroke oil, leaves NO carbon in the cylinder or exhaust
over oiling with cheap oil clogs up everything with carbon

since it is hard to start, even with starting fluid
there are two possible problems
sticky reed valves from fuel varnish
and carbon in the head which absorbs what little fuel is getting through
all depends on how hours of run time, low hours is probably sticky reed valves
lots of hours could be carbon or both "

TomG2--
" Not knowing the hours on the generator leaves open the possibility that it was not or is not broken in properly. Some require up to 25 hours of break in time."

RLS7201-
"You can clean up that smokey King by using Amsoil 100-1 2-cycle oil. I've been using it since 1979 in all my 2-strokes, including my dirt bikes, with no failures. The initial price of a quart is startling but do the math and you'll find it no more expensive than running 32 or 50-1 premix.
Also, when you run less oil through the main jet, you get more gas, which means a slightly richer A/F ratio. That may help with the RPM hunting, lean roll.
In my 175cc dirt bike, I had to reduce the main jet one size when I change from 50-1 to 100-1 premix."

There were others who provided good tips but this will do for now, thanks.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.
41 REPLIES 41

westend
Explorer
Explorer
I would pull the plug the next time, before you start tugging on the rope. There may be some flooding on shut down and your efforts to introduce fuel are only making things worse.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
72cougarxr7 wrote:
I bet a new NGK spark plug would take care of your flooding problem.


That's the kind I did put in. I figure things will get better after I learn its ways some more. There was something about first slow pulls to prime it before really tugging it. Maybe I am flooding it doing that wrong, don't know.

Also it has tipped over pulling on the cord at first, until I just learned you can pull straight up with your foot on it. Tipping over might flood it, don't know. It will get better once I get the hang of it.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

72cougarxr7
Explorer
Explorer
I bet a new NGK spark plug would take care of your flooding problem.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
I am embarrassed to report that the pull cord is already good to pull straight up with your foot on the gen top to hold it down.

In fact the grommet puts more of a bend in the line when pulled sideways than it does when pulled straight up.

Doesn't help with the flooding etc I get at first, but does solve a huge problem I was having. I'll get this little monster figured out eventually ๐Ÿ˜ž
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
red31 wrote:
got some engine start spray for my 2 stroke gen (identical to king), worked great.


I have some of that and it sure works. Trouble is, last time it increases the compression for the pull cord so much it snapped back out of my hand and that plastic drive pawl broke off somehow too.

I have got things better now so all I have to do when I first flood it, is remove the spark plug to air out in there without spraying down the hole, put the plug back after drying it off, and next few pulls it starts.

It is still a very hard pull IMO, not like the Honda gen or lawnmower, so it pulls the gen over instead of the cord out. Working on that.

One place I was reading about all this suggested a hard pull was a bad balance between intake and exhaust from carbon at one end or other or both. I am using SeaFoam for the intake clean, but have not taken off the exhaust to soak it etc like Mr Wiz mentioned. I did do the air filter sponge clean job and have the new spark plug. I expect things will improve as I use it more.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

red31
Explorer
Explorer
got some engine start spray for my 2 stroke gen (identical to king), worked great.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Mr Wizard, good idea. I was thinking of redirecting the pull cord with a snatch-block attached outside by there, but a new hole in the cover would work better. However, I would put it in the top like westend suggested. I see pulling the cord straight up with my foot on the gen. Hmmmmm.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
BLF

if you can't hold it with your left and pull with your right hand to start

then consider turning the generator around, just put a hole & gromment in the back side of the pulley cover for the rope
so you can pull with your left hand, with the genny turned around
the rope only winds around one way, the engine only spins one way
you just end up with the rope pulling up from the bottom instead of the top when you turn the genny around
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

DrewE
Explorer II
Explorer II
BFL13 wrote:

I bet Mex or somebody could invent an ignition attachment powered by a battery like my Honda 3000 has as an alternative to the recoil starter it also has. I am seeing a thing like a battery charger with clamps you put on a pos and neg place on the gen and turn a key. Then put that away once the gen is going. Or maybe steal one of those heart jump starter things out of an ambulance. Oh well ๐Ÿ™‚


Maybe you could rig up something to start it with an electric drill. There would probably have to be a little bit more sophisticated Benedix or equivalent mechanism than the apparently fragile plastic pawl thingy currently used.

72cougarxr7
Explorer
Explorer
Champion generators are easy to start, I have a 3500w open frame and a 2000w inverter. Both start with 1-2 pulls.
Of course the cost is much more than what you have. Always a trade off isn't there?
Looks like they make an open frame 1200w unit
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/champion-1200w-gas-generator-0550314p.html#srp
Not priced to bad as $299 Canadian, but at 57 LBS may be a bit heavy for the wife to lug around.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
Thanks. I hope it will start easier when it is warmer out. At least now I know it's not just me having a time starting it. ๐Ÿ™‚ I do like the thing. I had hoped DW could use it when she has the camper without me there, but that's not going to work as things are. It would be way better if you could just push a button to start it.

I bet Mex or somebody could invent an ignition attachment powered by a battery like my Honda 3000 has as an alternative to the recoil starter it also has. I am seeing a thing like a battery charger with clamps you put on a pos and neg place on the gen and turn a key. Then put that away once the gen is going. Or maybe steal one of those heart jump starter things out of an ambulance. Oh well ๐Ÿ™‚
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

72cougarxr7
Explorer
Explorer
My HF unit has always took some cranking to get started cold.
Installing an NGK spark plug (BP5ES) helped, but if it's been sitting for any length of time it usually 8 or 10 pulls to get it going.

I can't remember where I saw it, but one guy had a HF unit that started hard, he found the choke plate had too large of a hole drilled in it, he installed a pop rivet in the hole and said it started much faster.
I believe this might have been fixed on the newer units, this was the older blue units from HF like I have.

You can buy the complete carburetor on Amazon or Ebay for less than $15 US!

As for the generator moving when you are cranking it, I kneel down and rest my knee against the gas tank and that keeps it from moving, I usually have my free hand on the carry handle.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
MrWizard wrote:
I imagine?
Your eBay recoil starter is a complete assembly that fits on to the shaft
No taking apart no replacing the paw of one with the other
I like two stroke motorcycles mopeds etc
But I think you should have bought the other generator, the inverter 4 cycle


There is no shaft. The drive pawl sticks out when you pull the cord and catches the flywheel in its "blades" that is behind there (see part #40 flywheel in the schematic in the manual)

http://www.kingcanada.com/Files/KCG-951G_service_manual.pdf

We'll see on the eBay starter. It shows the screw that holds the parts in so you can put in a new cord or whatever.

I see the HF manual has the whole recoil starter as a part in their schematic, but I was able to buy just the drive pawl (#100)for the King.

That other little gen was just as hard to start (in the cold anyway) and it was much louder or pitched, whatever--I couldn't take that on my ears. This one is a lot easier on the ears when standing close to it, plus it will run the 40 amp charger instead of just the 20 amper.

The real proper choice was the Honda 1000, but way more money and its too big physically to go in my compartment. This one was on sale used, paid $100Can = $75 US, so a good deal once I manage to tame it. ๐Ÿ™‚
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
I imagine?
Your eBay recoil starter is a complete assembly that fits on to the shaft
No taking apart no replacing the paw of one with the other
I like two stroke motorcycles mopeds etc
But I think you should have bought the other generator, the inverter 4 cycle
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s