Fridge temperature depends on ambient

[hedgehopper]

Let's say I have our (Norcold) fridge temperature set on level 5 and the temperature is holding steady. But if the outside temperature goes up or down the fridge temperature does too. If it goes up, I have to change the level to 6 or 7 to keep the fridge temperature from getting too high. If the outside temperature goes down, I have to lower the setting to 4 or 5.

How does one deal with this situation without constantly playing with the level setting?

[ajriding]

red31 wrote:
ajriding, your 442 is supposed to have a capillary tube thermostat that would cause the flame to go into low flame mode when cold enough.

supposed to? Maybe it did, but still would freeze things. Seems the flame was always what I set it on.

[red31]

ajriding, your 442 is supposed to have a capillary tube thermostat that would cause the flame to go into low flame mode when cold enough.

[ajriding]

Dougrainer... I am curious what you are talking about... I guess I don't fully understand the by-pass you are talking about.
I have owned 3 or 4 fridges and none were automatic, and all would freeze the lettuce at lower outside temps. Just so happens one of my fridges lost the nameplate, I have it here on my desk, it was a Norcold model 442. I have had Norcold and Dometic ones.
Though all mine were older fridges, they all only worked manually. The user adjust the flame and that is how the flame (or electric element) burns until the gas runs out.
These all had thermocouple safety switches, but nothing else that I knew of...
thanks

[Edd505]

dougrainer wrote:

Edd505 wrote:
What model? There is an issue with the 4 door models.

OK, what is the issue? Doug

Doors don't close properly. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OMsPpc3DDx0

[BarabooBob]

I have had 2 way fridges that have automatic thermostats and also one that you changed the flame setting to change the fridge temp. The second type did change internal temps due to external temps.

With the automatic (thermostatically controlled) units, I us a battery operated fan inside the fridge to circulate the internal air. It helps greatly. It also helps cool the unit faster when I turn it on.

[red31]

sorry Doug but my info comes from the MANY PUs out there (www.popupportal.com/) that need to turn their fridge down at night to not freeze the lettuce, didn't take me anytime at all to understand their issues of no burner thermostat & bad installs like mine etc. The RM 2193 only has a therm on AC not gas or batt! The norcolc 323, 206 NO GAS THERM. Yes the PU folks appreciate being oddballs, they get that stuff all the time, lessor campers as you know.

we've been through this before.

[dougrainer]

red31 wrote:
As a manual reader I've seen this in both norcold compact and dometic




Maybe the OP could share what fridge is in his truck camper?

You take 1 or 2 oddball models and claim it is standard. I have WORKED on RV refers for 41 years small and large and NONE from the OEM's have NOT had a mechanical or Bypass tstat. State what models you are talking about. Have you ever OWNED one of those models? Doug

[dougrainer]

Edd505 wrote:
What model? There is an issue with the 4 door models.

OK, what is the issue? Doug

[hedgehopper]

Edd505 wrote:
What model? There is an issue with the 4 door models.

Norcold Model N641.3R Two door; 3-way

[ajriding]

Interesting comments.
On the ones I have owned there is no sensors. You set the dial to a number that just adjust the height of the flame (or the heat of the electric element, though I do not use electric much).

The fridge will cool down, but the outside temps will tend to heat the fridge box back up, so turning the dial to cooler counters this. In the desert where temps range 40-60 degrees difference day to night you have to be careful to not freeze the fridge compartment at night. On cold night I have to just turn the fridge off.

The freezer always stays frozen even 110 degrees outside, but the fridge box will vary quite a bit on the ones I have owned.

If you look at the fridge compartment as a sideways cooler, then suddenly it does not look very well insulated, and this is why it is hard to keep such a big cooler at a constant temp.
I think that the unit works by freezing the freezer then that provides cooling to the fridge below through the fins.
Factor in the above comments about air circulating around the fridge fins and you get a less-than-ideal cooling system.

So, I have noticed two problems with units that have manual only controls: outside air heats the box, and inside air is not allowed to circulate.

Also there is always the issue of outside air needing to flow past the hot cooling unit at the back of the fridge.

[MEXICOWANDERER]

I cut my teeth on lithium bromide liquid absorption chillers. The units are 25' in length, weigh 9 tons, and require a boiler and cooling tower. There wasn't one on the face of the earth that was automated. Even though these systems utilize cooling towers and fans a more change in wind direction required manual adjustments. Note the plural, adjustments...

You do not want to know what happens if the lithium compound overheats.

Now mix in complexity with lowball construction cost versus longevity. Be thankful if your absorption unit performs to your expectations of performance and longevity

[Edd505]

What model? There is an issue with the 4 door models.

[red31]

As a manual reader I've seen this in both norcold compact and dometic




Maybe the OP could share what fridge is in his truck camper?

[dougrainer]

red31 wrote:
some of those small fridges sans freezer DO NOT HAVE A TEMP CONTROL (thermostat), you are the thermostat, the propane flame is adjustable from small to smaller.

The have a temp control. It is called a BYPASS TSTAT on the LP side. I have never seen a small RV LP/120 refer NOT have a tstat. The tstat control is usually on the OUTSIDE back of the refer. You have to open the outside access door to get to it. The BYPASS tstat works like this--- You light the LP burner and IF the refer needs to cool, the flame is normal flame. When the refer inside temp is reached, the BYPASS Tstat lowers the LP flame to a pilot level and stays lit, but not enough BTU's to operate the cooling unit. When the refer needs to cool, the Bypass tstat raises the flame to normal level to cool. Doug