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Mixing Batteries on Float-- Mex Test Update 2

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
UPDATE 1 on 23 Dec post
UPDATE 2 on 25 Dec post
----------

Mex is driving me crazy! He said do not mix my used 12s (Scrubber batteries, he calls them--humph! They are respectable golf car batteries I'll have you know. Humph!) with my regular bank of 6s or they would evilly interact, and I would ruin my good 6s. I asked if that were still true if they were all on a Float charge.

Mex said they would still have evil interactions even when all on a Float. So I have gone ahead at some inconvenience to keep the used 12s and the good 6s apart.

Now all of a sudden, Mex pipes up in another thread with this!!!

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:
Batteries should be separated after the charging protocol. Connect all batteries together and apply 1 nominal 14.2 charging volts and there is no way any of the batteries can detect it one battery or a hundred are online, or the chemistry of any of them. The only requirement made of a charging system is that it not under or overcharge the battery. Voltage requiments for flooded 5% antimony batteries and pure lead AGM is similar enough for multiple warhead work.

It's when the charging ceases that the problems arise.

So go ahead and use a smart solenoid to parallel charge the batteries. I have done this too many times to count.


What is going on here? Are there evil interactions or not as long as they are charging or on a float? Does this leave the time they are discharging together as when the evil interactions get going?

If they are banked on solar, they discharge at night and charge during the day. So the evil interactions come out after dark? Can I just call Ghost Busters?
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.
50 REPLIES 50

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
For the time I would be camping with them banked, they would never get to 100% anyway. They only get to 100% when taken there separately at home (or if I ever did the split bank trick with solar)

So that leaves keeping them on Float at home as the only time they might be prevented from staying at 100% if connected mixed after being "recovered", from what PT mentions. If they are all at 13.4v will one set eat the other?

I am trying to understand if there is some sort of evil interaction current eddying nasty business that goes on that harms them during normal discharges and recharges and on Float. I don't care if one set only gets to 97% while the other set gets to 98% on a day's worth of solar. That gets fixed when doing the 100% recovery they all get later separately.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Hi,

My limited understanding is that the mix of the different chemistries plus the difference in require ideal float voltage leads to weakest bank becoming a parasite on the others once they are fully charged up.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

westend
Explorer
Explorer
smkettner wrote:
If they are all wet cell and you have solar... I would just connect them and let it run.
No separate charges upon return. No reconfiguring while camping. Just let the solar do it's magic.
Of course if you have insufficient sun for a few weeks to get up into absorption then apply a float.
That is how I roll.

X2.
If you want to join them and may want to separate them later, use a master disconnect switch.
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
If they are all wet cell and you have solar... I would just connect them and let it run.
No separate charges upon return. No reconfiguring while camping. Just let the solar do it's magic.
Of course if you have insufficient sun for a few weeks to get up into absorption then apply a float.
That is how I roll.

BFL13
Explorer II
Explorer II
I was proposing to bank them all together while camping off grid, sometimes for weeks at a time, where they would be discharging and charging together.

They would get solar and converter charging as required, never getting to 100% and not going below 50% either, then going home and separating them to get ("recover") each to 100% individually.

Then they would go on a Float together or separately (I have several float chargers) till the next camping session.

Mex said that was bad. Has he changed his story? Did I not understand the Oracle the first time? This really matters for how I set up the trailer with wiring etc.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.

Sloop_Smitten
Explorer
Explorer
I think the difference is you were talking of a float charge which would be charging at a low current and is used to maintain a charge, not charge from an uncharged state. He is speaking of 14.2 volts at a hgiher current which can overcome the tendency of the batteries to drain voltage from one another and is used to return a battery from an uncharged condition to charged.
1992 Fleetwood Jamboree Rallye 24' M/H
Ford E350 Chassis, 7.5L Engine, E40D Transmission
My other motorhome is a 1978 Catalina 25 Sailboat
Cruising Califonia, Sailing the Pacific!