Pairing up the Eco-worthy 20a MPPT controller

[JiminDenver]

Thanks to BFL confirming that the Eco-Worthy controller plays well when run with another controller, I felt pretty good about combining my two matched controllers. Each had one of the Bosch 245w mono panels aimed not perfect but good enough considering that they will be flat mounted. I used a fully charged 95 ah grp 27 so that I could move the voltage easier than the 8-D.

I used the inverter and a 1875w hair dryer as a load. I tried high but the voltage dropped so fast that the inverter shut off before I could check either the controllers or the meter on the battery. After shutting off the inverter the controllers put out a combined 28-30 amps until it hit float.

After it had been in float a bit I tried the low setting on the hair dryer. This time the batteries voltage only dropped to 12.3v and both controllers were putting out 13a average. I knew they were good for more so I disconnected one of the panels and the other controller shot up near 16a. This let the battery drop in voltage and when I plugged in the other panel, both systems ran close to 16a. They stayed that way until I shut off the hair dryer and inverter and let the battery come up.

I did find that I could use the high setting for short times if I started in low and let the controllers get ramped up. They were putting out 13a each until I hit high, then they jumped up above 16a each. The voltage did drop but slower this time. With the help of the solar, the hair dryer ran a minute before the inverters alarm went off.

I did get a chance to see the Mono panels with on and off clouds. Any significant clouding and the output dropped to 2.5a for each panel even if I was running a load. I didn't pull out the 230w poly but I've seen it do 3-4a in lower light. Just shutting down the inverter would save more amps than I'm losing, it's a real pig.

So I'm pretty happy with the combined systems. I'll probably see higher amps up at altitude but only if I'm running the microwave at high noon. With this in mind, I may go with the Rogue 30a instead of the Morningstar 45a for mounting and save the money. Clipping may not be a issue often and it would only be a few amps at peak hours.

Last thing is about the absorb cycle on the Eco-worthys. Even if I set the absorb at 15v, it didn't last. The controller would come out of bulk, switch to absorb and raise the voltage to the set point. As soon as it hit that the controllers dropped to float. I will say that 32a pushes a grp 27 around pretty easy. Next test it will be the 8-D, it doesn't push so easy.

[mena661]

JiminDenver wrote:

I have run the 1875 watt hair dryer and for more than a few minutes too. So I'd have to believe they are not split.

Thanks a lot! I'll put this on my list.

[JiminDenver]

Mena

I have run the 1875 watt hair dryer and for more than a few minutes too. So I'd have to believe they are not split. Knowing this I wonder if I should have gotten the 1500 or 2000w model or am I better off with the larger unit I'll never push hard.

I am thinking about getting a smaller inverter for just the TV and tailgater. That way I can turn on the big one for the big loads and not worry about the stupid high idle drain. I guess that's one of the prices to be paid for getting it for such a low price.

I just checked and the receiver for the tailgator takes 55w and the TV takes 65w. Getting them their own inverter would save a lot of power.

[mena661]

Jim, keep us up to date on how that inverter works out. I might pick one up. Are those receptacles on that inverter 1500W each?

[JiminDenver]

it did it again....sigh

[JiminDenver]

pianotuna wrote:
Hi Jim,

Which 3k inverter do you have?

Why did you move to mono panels from poly?

Don

I have that 3000/6000w Power Jack PSW inverter I picked up off of ebay for under $200. It has run everything up to the 1875 watt hair dryer but if my clamp meter is right, it pulls 16a at idle. That's fine while the solar picks up the slack but leave it on over night and it's a killer.

I didn't switch to mono panels on purpose. I didn't have long to pick the panels I took out of the stacks the guy had for $85 and in my rush recognized the Bosch name so I took those. I didn't find out that the Bosch were mono and the other set of 245w were poly until I got home. I would have preferred the Polys but these will do.

What I really should have done was taken the whole stack of 245w panels and started making portable systems to sell on CL. There is a person that for years has been selling 70w kits for $400, so I think I could make some money and buy respectable toys. 🙂

[BFL13]

deleted

[BFL13]

Yes, please run a test on the same panel in the same conditions using the fancy expensive MPPT and then the Eco-W. That means blue sky no clouds going by for the time it takes to swap around the controllers and get the second reading.

Not sure how you will measure the amps in each case with no Trimetric. Not sure it would be valid to use the controllers' own readouts for the amps, but go with what you have.

We need to show that the Eco-W can buck as well as a MorningStar or those snobs will never give up 🙂

On the Isc question, I did not mean where the panel is exceeding its rated Isc. That can happen for a number of reasons of course. What I mean is where panel Isc measures at 8.5a but you are getting 11 or 12 amps from the controller even though it is showing Float on the dial.

BTW, when you do the little MPPT/PWM test the Eco-W has for a demo, it shows the actual panel Isc at the time of the test for the PWM amps. To get that Isc, the controller must somehow short its array input with its ammeter going just long enough to get that number.

Which is another thing on the Isc question. When it shows Float and 11 amps you can also run the demo and it does it. How can it do that if it is not in MPPT? Yet the story is it only does MPPT in Bulk.

[pianotuna]

Hi Jim,

Which 3k inverter do you have?

Why did you move to mono panels from poly?

[JiminDenver]

the heaviest 12v load we have is a 12v, 200w, auto drip coffee maker. Running it along with the furnace, lights and fans might pull the system out of float.

Right now I am using a 3000w PSW inverter but plan on a smaller one for just the TV and dish. The draw at idle on the big inverter is crazy high.

[KJINTF]

Double post - service unavailable - etc...
This forum's software is driving me nuts

[KJINTF]

"Maybe I could set up a side by side with my pal that got the TS-MPPT-60 and see what kind of numbers it pulls from his 245w's."

Jimin

That would be a test I would very much like to see

"Now that I have twin systems with more than twice the power, it will take the inverter and a larger load to bring the battery out of float. With 20-26 amps or so to work with we can run anything but the microwave and hair dryer and the battery will just keep charging."

Sounds like it's time for to get more DC Loads or even a 2000watt inverter. Sure is nice to have more than enough power.

[JiminDenver]

BFL

I believe the peak amps I see are the result of what the controller ask for. Here in Denver the 230w was always limited to 15a and a bit above 16a up at altitude. The 245w have gone higher when I used a starter to put a load on them here. So the power is there, the controller doesn't always use it. (lower the banks voltage and the amps get higher)

All of my panels exceed Isc both in straight test on the meter and on the controller. only 1 or 2 amps here but up in the hills I saw 11-13a in Absorb and float all the time. I couldn't check with the meter up there as mine only goes to 10a. That's why we can use the lights, fans, furnace and the system never comes out of float. It doesn't have to draw down the battery to run those things.

Now that I have twin systems with more than twice the power, it will take the inverter and a larger load to bring the battery out of float. With 20-26 amps or so to work with we can run anything but the microwave and hair dryer and the battery will just keep charging.

Maybe I could set up a side by side with my pal that got the TS-MPPT-60 and see what kind of numbers it pulls from his 245w's.

[BFL13]

Interesting that the 245s get the same amps (just under 16) the 230 gets.

On the Eco-W, perhaps Jim can confirm if ever noticed, but I believe I have seen this several times now.

After you get to your high set point and Bulk ends, it drops to the Float voltage set point so it is supposedly now in PWM. Panel Isc is say 8.5a, but the controller readout might still be showing (confirmed by Trimetric) you are getting say 11 amps and are in Float.

I thought PWM meant you can't exceed panel Isc. Does that mean the Eco-W is really in MPPT during Float? This would be before battery voltage drops below 13.2 so it can return to Bulk.

[JiminDenver]

Westend

You are dating yourself and I'll forgive you as soon as I get that dang song out of my head. lol

[JiminDenver]

BFL13 wrote:
It is sad, really. Logic has gone out the window and you have sold out!!! You have been lured into wanting to make your controller set-points on your laptop over any actual solar considerations! Lie down till the feeling goes away, and stay on as a true blue Eco-W man. You can do it! Just say, "No!"

Believe me, as slow as I get things done, the Eco-Ws will get plenty of use. I'm still a fan too. What other 20a MPPT controller can be had for $85 with free shipping, (auction), has a display and voltage set points and makes the high voltage panels I find little power houses for less than $200.

Even if they had a voltage sensor, the internal temperature sensor would be fine.