I will watch for that, thanks.
I never did set up the Tri like it says, since I don't like the way they or the other brands that do percent SOC do that. Capacity is a big variable with temperature, so IMO the percentage SOC reading is probably wrong.
I just get the straight volts, amps, and AH readings and do my own SOC calculation based on my own idea of battery capacity when full, which depends on battery age and temperature which I allow for.
I note the morning voltage before solar kicks in and when the furnace is not on for a low load voltage (not quite resting of course) and the table for voltage/SOC for that battery (same as before getting a monitor), and compare that with the AHs down showing on the Tri from last full (my AH est of full). Makes for a good cross-check of approx SOC--close enough for me.
If the morning voltage says it is 50% SOC (12.1v with a Trojan eg) and the AH count is 215 down, then that makes 100% 430AH. I note whether that is reasonable for the temperature and age of batts.
So I hope I can do that with the linked Renogy monitor but not clear from a quick look at the manual if I can ignore all the settings and just use it as a straight AH counter plus as a voltmeter and ammeter same as the Tri. And I hope it has a manual AH counter reset to zero!! it better.
The Tri lets you pick that or use an auto reset--which is no good for when on solar, eg so you disable auto reset.
Anybody know about how the R is for all that? I will find out eventually, but be good to know what to expect.
1. 1991 Oakland 28DB Class C
on Ford E350-460-7.5 Gas EFI
Photo in Profile
2. 1991 Bighorn 9.5ft Truck Camper on 2003 Chev 2500HD 6.0 Gas
See Profile for Electronic set-ups for 1. and 2.