Awning Frame Attachment

[Superkevin11]

I have a 2007 Keystone Cougar Travel Trailer with a power awning. I bought in 2009 and I have had problems with this awning the entire time. From the get go, I couldn't get framer on the right side to stay attached to the camper side. It would pull the top away when I opened the awning and I have had a leak issue. I would reseal it with silicone and screw it back down. Last year, a guy working on my roof told me that the camper didn't come with a power awning from the factory that it had to be added later. We also discovered that it was missing the butyl tape behind the frame. I pulled it loose to put butyl tape behind it yesterday and now I can't get it to screw down tight. The awning frame seems to be screwed to the fiberglass siding and that doesn't seem correct to me. However, I don't know how it is suppose to be attached. Can someone tell me the best way to attach it to the side of the camper? Any help is appreciated.

[Superkevin11]

Lets try this again. These panel screws maybe the best option. Only problem is they are 10-24 and only 0.19 in. diameter. It also requires a special tool which costs $150.

[myredracer]

Superkevin11 wrote:
This may be a better solution though.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#rivets/=131vlu0

Those rivets are the correct type. They are often called "Oscar" rivets for RVs but I've only seen those in 1/8" size. I see that Mcmaster lists aluminum blind rivets in 3/16" and 1/4" diameters. It's not clear from the Carefree info. if the rivets really are 7/32" in dia. or that's the hole dia. I would guess that you could go with 1/4" rivets on the vertical rails and maybe 3/16" on the horizontal rail. It can't hurt to add a couple more for added strength. You may need to drill new holes if the existing screws have caused the holes to be enlarged or damaged.

Some online RV parts vendors have Carefree parts like PPLmotorhomes for ex. I don't see rivets on their online catalogue list though. It's probably easiest and fastest to order from someone like McMaster-Carr. An industrial fastener store like Fastenal has them. Harbor Freight also has them but I'd hesitate to use unnkown quality in a case like this. Ebay's another source too.

You may need a pop rivet tool that is the type with a rotatable head that will angle at 45 degrees.

[Superkevin11]

This may be a better solution though.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#rivets/=131vlu0

[Superkevin11]

I got this off of another forum. It looks like a moly rivet is longer and split on the sides to allow it to cover a larger area. This is probably what I need. I'm not sure where to get them though.

[myredracer]

I'm just searching for info. on how to replace the gas struts and just in case it matters, I noticed that there is a different manual for 2008 and earlier and '09 onwards.

[myredracer]

Here is the instruction manual for the Carefree Eclipse awning. Here is the service manual that may have some useful info.

The manual says:
The upper mounting holes must attach into structure using the screws provided. If structural backing is not available for the upper mounting holes, it will be necessary to use the aftermarket rail extension so that the upper brackets can mount into the structural members at the roof line.

and:
For the bottom 3 mounting holes: if mounting into structure, use the 1/4 x 1 1/2 screws; if not attaching into structure, use the moly rivets.

Note that it says you need to use a rail extension if structural backing is not available so that you can screw into structural material at the top. If you can't screw into structure, you need to use moly rivets. I'm not familiar with the term "moly" but assume they mean blind rivets. If you have fiberglass exterior side walls, they have a layer of 1/8" plywood behind the fiberglass so rivets would work.

The installation manual seems to have conflicting info on screw length and size. The instructions say to use "silicone" caulk or putty tape. Silicone caulk on the outside of an RV is an absolute no-no. Either butyl tape or Proflex caulk will work to seal penetrations in the wall. The manual says the "moly" rivets are 7/32". That's a pretty hefty blind rivet and not sure where you'd get them except for maybe a Carefree of Colorado parts vendor.

If you get stuck on details, you might try contacting Carefree but they don't list a phone number, only email. We had a problem with a gas strut and they weren't of much help tho.

[Superkevin11]

That's what I don't know: I don't know what it is screwed into. I think that it is just screwed into the fiberglass siding and I can't see how that is the correct way to do it. I had a guy put come out and work on it about 4 years ago and he just put two additional screws into it. That's when the leaking started. I sealed everything up but every once in a while it reappears and I have to go address the problem again.

[myredracer]

That is a Carefree of Colorado awning in the photo. Same as the one on our TT except we have a fiberglass sided trailer and was a factory option. If you extend the awning right out, there will be a couple of stickers on the roller tube at the forward end with the manufacturers name, serial no., and I think a part number. Installation info. is available on the Carefree website.

The vertical channel on ours screws onto the exterior wall with some butyl tape where the screws are. The screws appear to be #10 self-tappers, maybe #12 and have a hex head. There are 2 screws about 5-6" apart near the top of the channel, one in the middle and a couple at the bottom, also about 5-6" apart. It looks like the spacers used with the aluminum siding in the photo would be correct.

There is also the horizontal channel that secures the awning material against the wall. The gas struts exert a LOT of force against the roller tube to keep the awning material taut. If the horizontal channel isn't firmly anchored to the wall, it will pull away, as you have found out. No idea what size screws are in there.

If you have the awning out and a high wind comes along, there will a lot of force exerted on the vertical channels and horizontal channel so they must be well anchored to the wall. I have no idea if they typically have a backer plate pre-installed for the vertical channels or not but would guess yes. There will be rafter ends along the exterior wall (every 24"?) and maybe the horizontal track should be anchored into the rafters, or to top plate of the wall framing. In our TT, the horizontal channel is tight to the underside of the roof gutter.

I think you need to find out how the vertical channels are attached to the wall. Did they screw into a stud or something else? You'll need to pull a screw out and reseal the penetration afterwards. If there just into sheet metal, I'd say you've got a problem that needs to be addressed. Depending on the floor plan and where cabinets and other things are, it *might* be possible to install some wood or sheet metal backing.

Hopefully someone will come along with more info.

[Superkevin11]

That one appears to have tabs that mount the rail to the the camper. Mine doesn't have those tabs. I'll try and get a picture of it tomorrow.

[Superkevin11]

I'm not sure on the brand. I can take a better look at it tomorrow in daylight. However, it looks like this:

[myredracer]

What brand and model of awning? A photo would probably help.