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CUTTING A HOLE IN TT DOOR? {{{{{UPDATES}}}}}}

joelyn
Explorer
Explorer
hey, have a TT that has no window in the door just a peep hole. want to install a window and have to cut out a hole in the door for the window. i did get a used slim shade window w/ shade by AP products. any tips or do's and don't from anyone that did this before, before i start this project??? really hate to screw the door up.....i was thinking of using a jig saw with a metal blade to make the cut unless better ideas. thanks.
44 REPLIES 44

joelyn
Explorer
Explorer
THANK YOU all for the nice compliments. does make a nice difference standing in the kitchen being able to see out and having extra light in. plus with the built in shade makes it still private. thanks again.

TNGW1500SE
Explorer
Explorer
Looks factory. Nice work.

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
Boon Docker wrote:
Nice job, very professional looking!


x2
bumpy

DrewE
Explorer II
Explorer II
I agree, it looks like very nice work. I'm glad it worked out well for you.

Thank you for providing an update and pictures of the end result.

Cummins12V98
Explorer III
Explorer III
Looks like you did a good job. We ordered our DRV without a window as most have obscure glass or if tinted people usually put a curtain over it. We have a window right next to the door on the end of the slide we look out.
2015 RAM LongHorn 3500 Dually CrewCab 4X4 CUMMINS/AISIN RearAir 385HP/865TQ 4:10's
37,800# GCVWR "Towing Beast"

"HeavyWeight" B&W RVK3600

2016 MobileSuites 39TKSB3 highly "Elited" In the stable

2007.5 Mobile Suites 36 SB3 29,000# Combined SOLD

joelyn
Explorer
Explorer
Boon Docker wrote:
Nice job, very professional looking!


THANKS

Boon_Docker
Explorer III
Explorer III
Nice job, very professional looking!

joelyn
Explorer
Explorer
WELL after reading, asking questions and measuring decide to do the window today..... traced my template that i made, taped it off and started cutting.... pretty easy to cut the door and the sabre saw was long enough to go all the way through. the piece i cut out popped right out and tested the window and fit right in. caulked it and screwed it down. looks like it was always there. below a few pictures of before and after... AGAIN THANKS TO EVERYONE FOR THE TIPS AND SUGGESTIONS, ALL VERY HELPFUL. THANK YOU.





JaxDad
Explorer III
Explorer III
Thereโ€™s lots of NOS (new old stock) parts around, find a new surplus door with the factory window in it the same size and colour as yours is.

A friend replaced his when his deadbolt went bad, he said it was cheaper to buy the door than the deadbolt. He got one with an opening window instead of iced pane too.

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
joelyn wrote:
MWJones wrote:
jolyn,
Drill those 8 corner holes larger than your bit. Insert the saw blade
through BOTH holes before you turn on saw. Found out the hard way!!
Good luck.


MWJONES, WHEN YOU SAY drill the 8 holes do u mean drill 2 in each corner? like one where the curve starts and ends???


4 holes each side but long bit would be better. practice hole is a good idea. get a look around inside before doing the edges. I think I would go all the way thru with a small bit at first, then use larger bit on both sides so there is no raised area around back side.
bumpy

Ralph_Cramden
Explorer II
Explorer II
Travel trailer entry doors made since the 1990s are nothing more than a perimeter frame and a laminated sandwich of foam with a thin fiberglass or aluminum skin. A few if older may have a 1/8" Luan plywood layer. There will not be any stud or other structural support in the center. The RV manufacturers that don't use doors with windows do so to lower costs. There is no perimeter framing at the window, or inside a door without windows just the same as there is not perimeter framing at other window openings in a laminated trailer. You could cut an opening in an RV entry door with a sharp utility knife if you had nothing else.
Too many geezers, self appointed moderators, experts, and disappearing posts for me. Enjoy. How many times can the same thing be rehashed over and over?

joelyn
Explorer
Explorer
Artum Snowbird wrote:
If you can take the door off and mount it on sawhorses and use a drill press to just press the outside of the other side, move the door around on the level platform to drill all four corners, then punch them in and drill through from the opposite side, then you will have four matched holes on both sides. I would do a practice hole on a piece of wood first, the same thickness of the door, then put a rod in the hole and straighten up the press to be perfect upright.



yeah i checked that first about taking the door off but i would have to remove the entire frame. all attached and the hinges are like pressed into the doors. thanks

TNGW1500SE
Explorer
Explorer
joelyn wrote:
lots of good suggestions, the manufacturer does not make this TT any more and hasn't since 2006. masking tape is a good idea. i did buy a metal cutting jigsaw blade which is long enough to cut both sides at one time. not sure if i could cut separately and have the hole match up, lol. the blocking sounds like a good idea and i will see what it looks like once i cut the hole out. again thanks for all the suggestions and will post some pictures when i get it done. thanks again and any other suggestions let me know. might not do until next weekend.


I'd cut one side and then use a drill to transfer that cut to the other side. Long blades bend and you may not be happy ๐Ÿ˜‰

joelyn
Explorer
Explorer
JesLookin wrote:
I'd use a jigsaw and first cut a mini hole in the middle of the hole you really want. Sort of a practice hole, to try to make any mistakes on the practice hole.


good idea, thanks

joelyn
Explorer
Explorer
MWJones wrote:
jolyn,
Drill those 8 corner holes larger than your bit. Insert the saw blade
through BOTH holes before you turn on saw. Found out the hard way!!
Good luck.


MWJONES, WHEN YOU SAY drill the 8 holes do u mean drill 2 in each corner? like one where the curve starts and ends???