Window AC to roof air , hare brained idea.

[jjrbus]

I don't play golf or fish, but I do enjoy puttering in my garage and like a challenge. I like running my RV on one Honda 2000i and have found that it will only run an 8500 btu AC dependably. That is at all altitudes and temperatures.

I started one of these once before and ran out of time, so stuck a 8000 btu window AC in my Toyota. I still have the bug to do this.

This is a picture and link of one done by Professor 95 some time ago.

The issue I see with the one pictured is evacuating, cutting and reassembling lines. I have no evacuating equipment nor the swagging tools so would have to pay to have it done.

I am thinking that possibly the cold air discharge could be modified to redirect the air without disassembling the cooling system.

Anyone have any input on this?

https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/21943313/print/true.cfm

[Big_Katuna]

Won’t the Coleman Mach 1 11,000 run on a Honda 2000?

It draws 1100-1200 watts, 12A starting.. Altitude might be a issue but you can rejet it.

Plus at high altitude it’s usually cooler.

[TenOC]

I do not see any need to cut any lines -- no need to disassembly any part of the A/C. The key would be to have a larger enough hole for the cool air to enter the RV. Too small a hole in the roof and the A/C will ice up. About 1/2 of A/C are not ducted in the RV. They only blow in the living room, but if your RV has ducts you should be able to blow the cool air into the duct.

2. Remember that HOT air is exhausted on the back side of the A/C so leave lots of room for this to escape.

3. Make sure the A/C is security bolted to the roof. You do not want to lose it driving on the interstate.