Anderson Ultimate and 100" wide 5th Wheel

[skidooman93]

Anyone here using and Anderson Ultimate to tow a full size (not a light) openrange (mine is a 2014 367BH) 5th wheel with a 2014-2017 Ram 2500-3500 short bed 4X4 and factory gooseneck/5th wheel prep. I was all ready to purchase and Anderson but I am concerned with clearance issues when turning. And clearance issues with bed side rails if the adapter is turned so the ball mount is behind the king pin, The openranges are 100" wide so that seems to create more clearance issues for some. Any help or experience would be greatly appreciated. I am not interested in a traditional 5th wheel hitch IE B&W only other alternative would be a reese goosebox.

[BarneyS]

Ok, you guys win. I gave a warning. Thread closed.
Barney

[WTP-GC]

MFL wrote:
This is not the first OP that has asked a question, but only wanted to hear an answer that made his already decided choice to be the right one.

Actually, the OP was mostly concerned about fitment for his application, and specifically asked for information just on that. Only a handful of comments actually talked about this.

Truth is that when a thread like this pops up, there's no reason to comment with pros/cons, especially when the item of discussion has already been beaten to death over and over and over again. The "SEARCH" feature on this forum works quite well, and people ought to be directed to use it.

[MFL]

Walaby wrote:
Sounds like you've pretty much got your mind made up. Even when someone with first hand experience points out a negative, you've already thought of that, or taken it into consideration. Which begs the question for those of us less informed....

WHY ASK???

And before you criticize me for asking or chiming in, I may not own a 5er now, but I predict I will in the next 5-6 years, so I am reading and learning.

Mike

Well after 5 pages, this pretty much sums up the whole thread! This is not the first OP that has asked a question, but only wanted to hear an answer that made his already decided choice to be the right one.

There are many such as Mike, that read the answers as well. All of us are here to learn/share information, and many have received very knowledgeable info from Old-Biscuit.

Anyone asking a question on a public forum, is going to get varying opinions, a lot of them with no first hand experience. The OP can choose the info he feels pertains to question, but only needs to skip over the others.

Hope the Andersen works for the OP, but any standard bed, with FW hitch is going to require a driver that is alert to potential problems when turning/backing, even more so with wide body FW.

Jerry

[skidooman93]

Searching_Ut wrote:
With a short bed truck you'll have the potential to hit while backing up no matter what hitch you use. It's just something you'll have to deal with. If possible, it's nice to get something you can at least do a tight 180 in without hitting. That said, with a long 5er if you stay in a tight turn long enough say just circling in a parking lot you will almost certainly hit at some point. Having towed bumper pulls for years I'm used to having to watch for the "Jackknife" point where the trailer hits so don't find it troubling to watch for.

I researched the Reece goosebox a bit prior buying my fifth airborne. Something that concerned me about that setup is that it evidently is prone to bleeding off the air charge for the air bag in hard braking situations when the nose dives hard. With a 2015 Ram with a Brake controller that limits trailer braking at slower speeds I was concerned I'd end up bleeding off the hitch air charge in stop and go traffic because the truck ends up doing more of the braking than desired. That said, at least on the pin box the airbag shock setup really does wonders for the ride and hammering the trailer takes on rougher roads. If you can fit it in to your plans, I highly recommend trying to end up with something that gives you this option.

As for the emotional type responses you get when it comes to the Andersen Hitch, or truck brand, etc etc it can be somewhat comical. I'm not sure what drives that. I do admit my Andersen hitch issues have caused me issues with the guys at work. I'm an engineering tech, having worked almost 40 years in aircraft maintenance, the last 18 in the heavy maintenance, life extension upgrade and modification type stuff, working with several structural engineers. Most are also ATV/RV enthusiasts. When I ended up buying my Andersen several of my workmates chose to rib me about it and offer to come and get me when I ran into issues. They're hard core now in the ribbing I take. Guess the fact my specialty is electrical, hydraulic and environmental systems rather than structural is my only defense.

Thanks again. The only thing keeping me from the goosebox over the AU at this point is the $600 difference. The goosebox does have 2 shocks and an air bag in it. I have read those that have had trouble with it bleeding off air also. That is something I would have to prepare for, as well as keeping a torque wrench along if I go that anderson route.


I really do appreciate your contribution

[Searching_Ut]

With a short bed truck you'll have the potential to hit while backing up no matter what hitch you use. It's just something you'll have to deal with. If possible, it's nice to get something you can at least do a tight 180 in without hitting. That said, with a long 5er if you stay in a tight turn long enough say just circling in a parking lot you will almost certainly hit at some point. Having towed bumper pulls for years I'm used to having to watch for the "Jackknife" point where the trailer hits so don't find it troubling to watch for.

I researched the Reece goosebox a bit prior buying my fifth airborne. Something that concerned me about that setup is that it evidently is prone to bleeding off the air charge for the air bag in hard braking situations when the nose dives hard. With a 2015 Ram with a Brake controller that limits trailer braking at slower speeds I was concerned I'd end up bleeding off the hitch air charge in stop and go traffic because the truck ends up doing more of the braking than desired. That said, at least on the pin box the airbag shock setup really does wonders for the ride and hammering the trailer takes on rougher roads. If you can fit it in to your plans, I highly recommend trying to end up with something that gives you this option.

As for the emotional type responses you get when it comes to the Andersen Hitch, or truck brand, etc etc it can be somewhat comical. I'm not sure what drives that. I do admit my Andersen hitch issues have caused me issues with the guys at work. I'm an engineering tech, having worked almost 40 years in aircraft maintenance, the last 18 in the heavy maintenance, life extension upgrade and modification type stuff, working with several structural engineers. Most are also ATV/RV enthusiasts. When I ended up buying my Andersen several of my workmates chose to rib me about it and offer to come and get me when I ran into issues. They're hard core now in the ribbing I take. Guess the fact my specialty is electrical, hydraulic and environmental systems rather than structural is my only defense.

[Walaby]

Sounds like you've pretty much got your mind made up. Even when someone with first hand experience points out a negative, you've already thought of that, or taken it into consideration. Which begs the question for those of us less informed....

WHY ASK???

And before you criticize me for asking or chiming in, I may not own a 5er now, but I predict I will in the next 5-6 years, so I am reading and learning.

Mike

[cummins2014]

Searching_Ut wrote:
My apologies for my post referencing a pin box part number. It was supposed to say 1621. Doesn't look like an obvious typo so it must have been some sort of beer induced brain malfunction.

As for why I quit using my Andersen, it damaged the 1621 HD pin box on my 5er because the base plate on the pin box wasn't up to the entire pin weight bouncing along on two set pins. I also became concerned when troubleshooting an occasional popping I was getting, most often when trying to back into the storage lot which was initially slightly uphill in a loose gravel area where I had to give it a fair amount of gas to get moving. Seems the base of the hitch would slip a very small amount but when it did it would make a quite audible single pop. While riding on the side step to figure out the pop I became concerned about the amount of bed deflection I was getting and decided to go with a puck mounted hitch. Of course having to shell out the money for a new pin box I wasn't about to tear it up the same way.

Back to your original question, of the two 5ers I towed with my Andersen, I towed two different 5ers with very different results. With the Son in Laws rig which is an older square nosed triple axle presidential Suites rig with a short pin box the ball offset and extra effective pin box length resulted in my being able to turn slightly tighter than I could with my long pin arm 2016 bighorn which actually has the rounded nose designed to allow tighter turns with a short bed truck. Either one I could do a full crank U turn without contacting the back of the truck, but either one would hit if you turned to short backing up so you have to pay attention to that as well as everything else you have to watch.

It doesn't matter what which hitch you have backing up, at some point even an automatic slider is going to make contact. Andersen is no more of a concern then any other hitch. Clearance is clearance it depends on the pin box, nose of the fifth wheel etc.

There are many that shouldn't have anything but an automatic slider, case in point the guy that was told he couldn't hit the cab with the Andersen , so he blindly went on his way, and hit the cab. There is a thing called awareness when you are towing and backing these rigs .

[skidooman93]

I appreciate your help. I'm not going to go to a traditional 5th wheel hitch. It will be either the Anderson or Goosebox. Having to watch the clearance turning radius while not ideal is something I'm willing to deal with to have the bed of my truck back to normal with out heavy lifting after towing.

I have read about bed deflection using the Anderson also prior to this thread again something else I have taken into consideration.

If I cannot make the Anderson or Goosebox work I will even go to a gooseneck adapter. Regardless of the potential risks but that will be my last resort. Regardless of the risks there are hundreds of people the pull 5th wheels using a gooseneck adapter against the recommendations of lippert. I even had a dealer (not the dealer I purchased the 5th wheel from) suggest I use one. When I asked about the risks, he shook his head and said I've sold campers all my life seen dozens use that adapter and never have problems. But again that will be my last resort. Thanks to everyone with first hand experience that has responded.

[Searching_Ut]

My apologies for my post referencing a pin box part number. It was supposed to say 1621. Doesn't look like an obvious typo so it must have been some sort of beer induced brain malfunction.

As for why I quit using my Andersen, it damaged the 1621 HD pin box on my 5er because the base plate on the pin box wasn't up to the entire pin weight bouncing along on two set pins. I also became concerned when troubleshooting an occasional popping I was getting, most often when trying to back into the storage lot which was initially slightly uphill in a loose gravel area where I had to give it a fair amount of gas to get moving. Seems the base of the hitch would slip a very small amount but when it did it would make a quite audible single pop. While riding on the side step to figure out the pop I became concerned about the amount of bed deflection I was getting and decided to go with a puck mounted hitch. Of course having to shell out the money for a new pin box I wasn't about to tear it up the same way.

Back to your original question, of the two 5ers I towed with my Andersen, I towed two different 5ers with very different results. With the Son in Laws rig which is an older square nosed triple axle presidential Suites rig with a short pin box the ball offset and extra effective pin box length resulted in my being able to turn slightly tighter than I could with my long pin arm 2016 bighorn which actually has the rounded nose designed to allow tighter turns with a short bed truck. Either one I could do a full crank U turn without contacting the back of the truck, but either one would hit if you turned to short backing up so you have to pay attention to that as well as everything else you have to watch.

[cummins2014]

skidooman93 wrote:
Anyone here using and Anderson Ultimate to tow a full size (not a light) openrange (mine is a 2014 367BH) 5th wheel with a 2014-2017 Ram 2500-3500 short bed 4X4 and factory gooseneck/5th wheel prep. I was all ready to purchase and Anderson but I am concerned with clearance issues when turning. And clearance issues with bed side rails if the adapter is turned so the ball mount is behind the king pin, The openranges are 100" wide so that seems to create more clearance issues for some. Any help or experience would be greatly appreciated. I am not interested in a traditional 5th wheel hitch IE B&W only other alternative would be a reese goosebox.

As usual on this forum asking for advice or first hand experience about a product just leads to the bashing of said product .

IMO you are totally on the wrong forum for first hand experience with the the Andersen ,and a Ram truck. Go to the Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum, and actually get first hand information about the Andersen ,and the Ram trucks. There are several threads on towing with the Andersen.

[NW_Explorer]

I tow a wide body 5er with a 2015 Ram 3500 Mega Cab dually using an aluminum Andersen Ultimate. I have towed approx. 7000 miles with this set up and am pleased with it.

The hitch is simple and easy to install and remove, it is quiet in operation, you can hook up at any reasonable angle and when we set the rig down on the hitch there's no question that you're connected - no high hitching, none of which I can say about the Pull Rite slider I used previously. Additionally,I can turn close to 90 deg without hitting the cab.

That being said, pin box-to-bed rail (or in my case, sliding bed cover rail) clearance can be an issue.

There is no perfect system and none that is immune to stupid human tricks, but I am happy with the Andersen and would recommend it.

Happy trails,
Bill

[Old-Biscuit]

skidooman93 wrote:

Searching_Ut wrote:
Would need more specifics about your trailer to know for sure, but with the Andersen ultimate you will probably end up being able to turn slightly less sharply with your trailer than you would be able to turn with a conventional hitch. Most of the newer medium sized trailer now use a variation of the lippert 1602 pin box. It has a long arm, and will sometimes hit the bed rails of your truck when you have the hitch set low which you tend to have to do with the new ram trucks to get your 5er anywhere close to level. The Andersen pin adapter will either lengthen or shorten the effective length of your kinpin by 4 inches. More than likely you will have to shorten the length by putting the pin in front of the ball to keep from hitting the bedrails in tight turns.

The Andersen hitch moves the ball 4 inches behind the axle on a ram shortbed, which gives you the ability to turn slightly tighter, However, the shortened pin arm resulting from putting the pin 4 inches in front of the ball removes that advantage. I just switched from and Andersen ultimate to a B&W hitch a few weeks ago and returned today from a 2500 mile trip of a couple weeks, lots of different driving conditions. With my Andersen, I could get approximately 75 to 80 degree during optimal flat smooth turns. With the B&W which I have set back 4 inches same as I had the Andersen, I find I can get approximately the same 88 degrees, if not slightly more that Heatland advertises for their nose cap.

Bottom line, without knowing which pin box you have, and how high you can get away with adjusting your hitch, I can't tell for sure how you would have to install your Andersen Pin adapter which effects turning radius a fair bit.

Thanks for the info. I believe the pin box is a 1721 or something like that. The goosebox option fits the 1602 and the 17XX I have.

So I expect the same adjustments you had, my truck may sit a little lower with it loaded it is a 2500.

Why did you go away from the Anderson?

Because of DAMAGE.
His post was the one I LINKED in my first post.

Which wasn't bashing just providing information about an incident with use of Andersen

[laknox]

Me Again wrote:
From TDR

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/254427-Forget-what-I-said-about-Andersen-hitch?highlight...

What an idiot. ALL hitches will hit the cab, IN REVERSE! Hitch doesn't matter. A slider only gives you more time before you DO hit.

Lyle

[skidooman93]

Searching_Ut wrote:
Would need more specifics about your trailer to know for sure, but with the Andersen ultimate you will probably end up being able to turn slightly less sharply with your trailer than you would be able to turn with a conventional hitch. Most of the newer medium sized trailer now use a variation of the lippert 1602 pin box. It has a long arm, and will sometimes hit the bed rails of your truck when you have the hitch set low which you tend to have to do with the new ram trucks to get your 5er anywhere close to level. The Andersen pin adapter will either lengthen or shorten the effective length of your kinpin by 4 inches. More than likely you will have to shorten the length by putting the pin in front of the ball to keep from hitting the bedrails in tight turns.

The Andersen hitch moves the ball 4 inches behind the axle on a ram shortbed, which gives you the ability to turn slightly tighter, However, the shortened pin arm resulting from putting the pin 4 inches in front of the ball removes that advantage. I just switched from and Andersen ultimate to a B&W hitch a few weeks ago and returned today from a 2500 mile trip of a couple weeks, lots of different driving conditions. With my Andersen, I could get approximately 75 to 80 degree during optimal flat smooth turns. With the B&W which I have set back 4 inches same as I had the Andersen, I find I can get approximately the same 88 degrees, if not slightly more that Heatland advertises for their nose cap.

Bottom line, without knowing which pin box you have, and how high you can get away with adjusting your hitch, I can't tell for sure how you would have to install your Andersen Pin adapter which effects turning radius a fair bit.

Thanks for the info. I believe the pin box is a 1721 or something like that. The goosebox option fits the 1602 and the 17XX I have.

So I expect the same adjustments you had, my truck may sit a little lower with it loaded it is a 2500.

Why did you go away from the Anderson?