May-22-2017 05:17 PM
May-27-2017 12:28 PM
May-24-2017 12:57 PM
May-24-2017 12:46 PM
4bearhug wrote:
filling holes with epoxy will probably be less noticable and better cosmetically. I will say that eternabond tape will have no problems sticking vertically and will definitely make the holes water tight. You don't peel that stuff off if you don't get it right the 1st time.
May-24-2017 12:37 PM
May-24-2017 12:23 PM
Don & Barb Bogue wrote:
Before you get further You only paid 2500 for it. A dealer should give you 3000 to 3500 as a triad in on a newer non leaking 5er with a few thousand in payments. You and the DW will be much happier. We traded up 3 times with me doing miner maintenance and repair until we got our new 5er in 2005. it has ben miner work sense then.just my 2 cents....
jerem0621 wrote:
Thanks for the pic.
Looking at the side of the trailer I would start with these fixtures. These are through the wall and directly above the damaged area.
-pic-
If you drill small holes, I would repair the hole with eternabond once the leak is fixed.
Thanks!
Jeremiah
May-24-2017 02:44 AM
May-23-2017 09:40 PM
May-23-2017 05:32 PM
KrowNB wrote:
I'm thinking here's a good chance that the leak issue was there before you bought it. But what do I know? I was interested to hear what the experts had to say about how to fix the problem. Maybe it'll be me in that position some day.
4bearhug wrote:KrowNB wrote:
I'm thinking here's a good chance that the leak issue was there before you bought it. But what do I know? I was interested to hear what the experts had to say about how to fix the problem. Maybe it'll be me in that position some day.
Exactly what I was thinking when reading some replies. You took the words right out of my mouth.
jerem0621 wrote:
Man, take it in stride.
IMHO...I would drain the water, find the source of the leak (possibly the roof, may be a window, vent, etc) and keep using it for a while.
I hate to tell folks this but there are only three kinds of RV's...it's not TT, Fiver, and Motorhome. It's RV's that have leaked, RV's that will leak, and RV's that are currently leaking. It's what you do to address the leaks IMMEDIATLY once you find them and dare I say, preventive maintenance as well.
Also, don't forget, that water can come from INSIDE the RV as well...if any plumbing is in the area make sure you watch it and see if that's leaking.
IMHO...it's not a total waste. At a minimum, somebody will surely pay you two to $3000 for the trailer
Thanks!
Jeremiah
May-23-2017 02:10 PM
May-23-2017 01:35 PM
KrowNB wrote:
I'm thinking here's a good chance that the leak issue was there before you bought it. But what do I know? I was interested to hear what the experts had to say about how to fix the problem. Maybe it'll be me in that position some day.
May-23-2017 07:31 AM
May-22-2017 07:26 PM
work2much wrote:
Well, this is not a great situation but if the water is actually trapped as you describe and you release the water it may not be the end of your trailer. If you haven't seen water inside I would drill as you have done and leave the holes open for a while in good weather to allow moisture to continue to dissipate. I assume by the age the coach is wood framed so there is the possibility of rot, but I suspect that if the water could have travelled into the framing you would have seen it in the interior.
Obviously a next step is to figure out how the water is getting in, but again if you haven't seen any leak stains in the ceiling the water intrusion and damage may be limited to the wall. Being on the slide-out portion it should be easy to find the problem area, but a full and complete roof re-sealing is in order.
I would drain the water, seal the roof and go ahead and use the trailer. It's probably too old and lacks the value to spend a ton of cash having it professionally restored. Re-sale probably isn't great but perhaps it has a few good years left for you!
Good luck.
May-22-2017 06:58 PM
May-22-2017 06:46 PM