Possible switch to 5th Wheel....Questions

[covered_wagon]

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated......

Which 5th wheel hitch is the very best for strength and ease of use? I don't worry about cost when it comes to something this important.

I want around 27 foot Cougar as it seems to be discreet in having everything I would like and I'm thankful for any thoughts about insulation and the holding tanks being able to take cold weather

Are there any other brands that have better insulation, thicker walls that I should consider?

Thanks to everyone for your helpful thoughts It will help to make wise decisions while switching from a Truck camper.

[Edd505]

dieseltruckdriver wrote:
Back on topic, I had a sliding bar hitch at first, then switched to the B&W because I didn't want the rails in the bed when I wanted to use my pickup as a pickup.

Do not get a sliding bar hitch. They wear and then the trailer will "slam" fore and aft as you are driving. If you get a hitch with wrap around jaws, this doesn't happen. The sliding bar will be secure, but they aren't smooth.

I drove semis for 17 years, and have used a few different kinds of hitches. The Hollands were my favorite.

Since you are new, immediately after you hook up, go to the back of your pickup and look at your hitch and pin, to verify they are mated correctly. A pull test is optional, but always visually verify that things are correct before you pull.
Do this every time, without fail. I check, then do my walkaround to make sure everything is ready to travel, then check it again.

Same with the Star car LOOK, B&W LOOK, walk around, ready for flight.

[dieseltruckdriv]

Back on topic, I had a sliding bar hitch at first, then switched to the B&W because I didn't want the rails in the bed when I wanted to use my pickup as a pickup.

Do not get a sliding bar hitch. They wear and then the trailer will "slam" fore and aft as you are driving. If you get a hitch with wrap around jaws, this doesn't happen. The sliding bar will be secure, but they aren't smooth.

I drove semis for 17 years, and have used a few different kinds of hitches. The Hollands were my favorite.

Since you are new, immediately after you hook up, go to the back of your pickup and look at your hitch and pin, to verify they are mated correctly. A pull test is optional, but always visually verify that things are correct before you pull.
Do this every time, without fail. I check, then do my walkaround to make sure everything is ready to travel, then check it again.

[Cummins12V98]

goducks10 wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:

goducks10 wrote:
I back into my B&W jaws and the handle slams back. Grab the 5er safety brake wire and slip the lock pin thru the hole in the handle. Walk to the rear, take a look at the jaws and then plug the 7 wire cord into the truck. No need for a pull test in 5 seasons. It just doesn't get any easier IMO unless you're using an Andersen as far as not needing a pull test.

OMG!!! Are you actually saying it’s not required to do a pull test with your hitch???

You are actually using your EYES as a verification TEST???

Ummm yeah. 🙂

A few years ago on here when I mentioned "I" did not do a pull test instead "I" did a "VISUAL" test with my B&W I was slammed, told how horrible I was to say such a thing and by me saying what i did would cause others to drop their RV's and MORE.

I think there were several that used their God given brain and did what I was doing but were afraid to mention it because of all the nasty/negative comments I was receiving.

Disclaimer "don't do as I do" unless you are confident in your own "VISUAL" testing abilities. :B

[goducks10]

Cummins12V98 wrote:

goducks10 wrote:
I back into my B&W jaws and the handle slams back. Grab the 5er safety brake wire and slip the lock pin thru the hole in the handle. Walk to the rear, take a look at the jaws and then plug the 7 wire cord into the truck. No need for a pull test in 5 seasons. It just doesn't get any easier IMO unless you're using an Andersen as far as not needing a pull test.

OMG!!! Are you actually saying it’s not required to do a pull test with your hitch???

You are actually using your EYES as a verification TEST???

Ummm yeah. 🙂

[Edd505]

Cummins12V98 wrote:

Using a B&W you know there is no way to drop the hitch if you simply make sure the hitch and pin box plates are touching each other, the hitch handle is closed and pinned/locked and a quick look to see that the 1" machined jaws are around the kingpin.

Do the above and there is ZERO reason to do a pull test.

Exactly!

[Me_Again]

I never did pull test with my Hijacker sliding bar hitch and the same with my B&W, the design of the jaws and dual point cam that the handle is attached to is better much fool proof. As the jaws close around the king pin, the spring loaded handle turns so the cam points prevent the jams from opening. Pin the handle in the closed position and one is good to go.

Larry, I hope you are doing your pull test with the landing gear still down almost to the ground.

Chris

[Cummins12V98]

larry barnhart wrote:

memtb wrote:

larry barnhart wrote:
Ron how is yours different than our reese. Seems it does the same thing as you describe. I do a pull test because it is easy. Hit the trailer brake and try to pull ahead. Not that tough to do.

chevman PS will be going south again so of course the pull test will be done.

And.....you verify that the trailer brakes are working! ??

yes and will be the same every time we hook up. No reason to stop.
chevman

I have ZERO issue with your chosen method!

[Cummins12V98]

goducks10 wrote:
I back into my B&W jaws and the handle slams back. Grab the 5er safety brake wire and slip the lock pin thru the hole in the handle. Walk to the rear, take a look at the jaws and then plug the 7 wire cord into the truck. No need for a pull test in 5 seasons. It just doesn't get any easier IMO unless you're using an Andersen as far as not needing a pull test.

OMG!!! Are you actually saying it’s not required to do a pull test with your hitch???

You are actually using your EYES as a verification TEST???

[larry_barnhart]

memtb wrote:

larry barnhart wrote:
Ron how is yours different than our reese. Seems it does the same thing as you describe. I do a pull test because it is easy. Hit the trailer brake and try to pull ahead. Not that tough to do.

chevman PS will be going south again so of course the pull test will be done.

And.....you verify that the trailer brakes are working! ??

yes and will be the same every time we hook up. No reason to stop.
chevman

[goducks10]

I back into my B&W jaws and the handle slams back. Grab the 5er safety brake wire and slip the lock pin thru the hole in the handle. Walk to the rear, take a look at the jaws and then plug the 7 wire cord into the truck. No need for a pull test in 5 seasons. It just doesn't get any easier IMO unless you're using an Andersen as far as not needing a pull test.

[memtb]

larry barnhart wrote:
Ron how is yours different than our reese. Seems it does the same thing as you describe. I do a pull test because it is easy. Hit the trailer brake and try to pull ahead. Not that tough to do.

chevman PS will be going south again so of course the pull test will be done.

And.....you verify that the trailer brakes are working! ??

[Cummins12V98]

Don’t know what your hitch looks like. I had a RBW before my last two B&W’s, I did a pull test on it for sure.

No reason to do so if your VISUAL test is done as I mentioned with a B&W.

Happy you are heading South!

[larry_barnhart]

Ron how is yours different than our reese. Seems it does the same thing as you describe. I do a pull test because it is easy. Hit the trailer brake and try to pull ahead. Not that tough to do.

chevman PS will be going south again so of course the pull test will be done.

[Cummins12V98]

wvcampers wrote:
I went from Reese to Andersen rail version. I recently traded trucks and the new one came with the B&W companion mounted with factory puck system. I have towed with it 2 times. I really like the Andersen due to the fact that there is no way to drop the trailer on the truck like you can with a traditional hitch. For beginners the Andersen is a much easier hitch to safely use and very easy to remove from the truck.

Using a B&W you know there is no way to drop the hitch if you simply make sure the hitch and pin box plates are touching each other, the hitch handle is closed and pinned/locked and a quick look to see that the 1" machined jaws are around the kingpin.

Do the above and there is ZERO reason to do a pull test.