Sandpaper 5th wheel

[rayroof10]

I have a question about my roof top a.c. l have my camper parked and set up at a site with about 35 others. And when it really hot and everyoneIs running their AC some of the campers Air conditioners trips out that's because the wiring is old in the park what I was wondering they habit extra hours campsite beside me that no one is using is there any way I can hook up my rooftop air conditioner straight to that of the site Using a heavy duty extension cord

[2oldman]

garyp4951 wrote:
What # grit is your sandpaper.lol

Hmm.. maybe he really does have a Sandpaper 5th wheel.

[Cummins12V98]

valhalla360 wrote:

Cummins12V98 wrote:
So based on my pic above did I pass or fail?

Wasn't a pass/fail issue.

It's PREFERABLE not to add more connections and cabling.

Not, YOU WILL DIE A FIERY DEATH IF YOU DO THIS.

I do believe less connections the better but I did use quality connectors VS some of the CHITZ that’s out there. If my AF ever fails it’s a simple unplug/plugin and I am back.

[valhalla360]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
So based on my pic above did I pass or fail?

Wasn't a pass/fail issue.

It's PREFERABLE not to add more connections and cabling.

Not, YOU WILL DIE A FIERY DEATH IF YOU DO THIS.

[Allworth]

In the real world, the voltage drop on a 50 foot 3/#6 RV cord is not measurable!

[laknox]

valhalla360 wrote:

laknox wrote:

rayroof10 wrote:
One more thing how or those hooked up. Is at the power supply or inside camper. Talking about the booster.

You can hook up the Hughes at the pedestal, but it's much safer to use a cord from the pedestal to the Autoformer in the pass-through, then another cord from the box to the coach plug.

Lyle

You don't want to use extra cords if you can avoid it. Voltage drops as a function of cable length, so longer cabling runs and extra connections eat up voltage and at high amps, connections are a potential point of failure.

If you put it inside a hatch, make sure there is an air space around it (don't pile stuff on it), so that the heat can dissipate. If you do put it inside, best to hard wire it into the panel.

Personally, I'd use my 25' Camco cord from the pedestal to the box, then make/have made a short cord to go the ~8-10' needed to go to the coach plug. 'Bout the same OAL length as a standard OEM cord.

Lyle

[Cummins12V98]

rayroof10 wrote:
Did good thanks for your help.

SWEET!!!

[rayroof10]

Did good thanks for your help.

[Cummins12V98]

valhalla360 wrote:

laknox wrote:

rayroof10 wrote:
One more thing how or those hooked up. Is at the power supply or inside camper. Talking about the booster.

You can hook up the Hughes at the pedestal, but it's much safer to use a cord from the pedestal to the Autoformer in the pass-through, then another cord from the box to the coach plug.

Lyle

You don't want to use extra cords if you can avoid it. Voltage drops as a function of cable length, so longer cabling runs and extra connections eat up voltage and at high amps, connections are a potential point of failure.

If you put it inside a hatch, make sure there is an air space around it (don't pile stuff on it), so that the heat can dissipate. If you do put it inside, best to hard wire it into the panel.

So based on my pic above did I pass or fail?

[valhalla360]

laknox wrote:

rayroof10 wrote:
One more thing how or those hooked up. Is at the power supply or inside camper. Talking about the booster.

You can hook up the Hughes at the pedestal, but it's much safer to use a cord from the pedestal to the Autoformer in the pass-through, then another cord from the box to the coach plug.

Lyle

You don't want to use extra cords if you can avoid it. Voltage drops as a function of cable length, so longer cabling runs and extra connections eat up voltage and at high amps, connections are a potential point of failure.

If you put it inside a hatch, make sure there is an air space around it (don't pile stuff on it), so that the heat can dissipate. If you do put it inside, best to hard wire it into the panel.

[Cummins12V98]

rayroof10 wrote:
One more thing how or those hooked up. Is at the power supply or inside camper. Talking about the booster.

It should be FIRST in line! Preferably locked inside the RV, people like to take then.

[laknox]

rayroof10 wrote:
One more thing how or those hooked up. Is at the power supply or inside camper. Talking about the booster.

You can hook up the Hughes at the pedestal, but it's much safer to use a cord from the pedestal to the Autoformer in the pass-through, then another cord from the box to the coach plug.

Lyle

[rayroof10]

One more thing how or those hooked up. Is at the power supply or inside camper. Talking about the booster.

[rayroof10]

Thanks a lot for every ones help and input l will be getting me one hopefully this week. Thanks a lot 're

[valhalla360]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
I have owned this 50A AutoFormer since 2011, works well. I have done this type of install on two DRV's with same AF.

If it ever goes bad I simply would unplug and connect the cord caps.

We have the 30amp version and in parks with marginal voltage, it has really helped.

Even if the park voltage is 105v and technically within spec for the air/con, I am much happier with it boosted north of 115v.

This may be your first experience but it's a common problem at RV parks during peak periods. Harping on the park owner is unlikely to do anything. It can easily run into the 10s of thousands of dollars to address the issue which may only happen a handful of days per year.

PS: Also get a voltage monitor you can see inside, so if voltage gets too low, you can turn off the air/con before burning it out. Under $10 you can get one that plugs into an outlet and provides constant readings.