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Wanting to change from STs to LTs..........

Paulb1310
Explorer
Explorer
We are the proud new owners of a 2007 K-Z Sportsman 5th wheel. The unit is in EXCELLENT shape for its age. This is our first (but likely won't be our last).

I have read numerous posts on the arguments of STs versus LTs. My conclusion is the I am going to replace the current tires/wheels with larger, more robust ones.

Here is what I currently have:
Tire: Load Max Radial
Tire Size: ST225/75R15
Overall diameter: 28.3"
Rim width range: 6-7"
Date Code: 614 0906 (waaaaay old!)
Wheels: Six bolt on 5.5" centers
Load rating for each tire: 2540 pounds
GVWR for trailer: 10,000 pounds

Here is what I want:
Tire: Michelin LTX A/T 2
Tire Size: LT245/75R16
Rim width range: 6.5-8"
Overall diameter: 30.5"

Wheel Choice #1: HiSpec Series 04
Wheel Size: 16x7
Wheel load rating: 3200
Offset: +5mm

Wheel Choice #2: HiSpec Series 05
Wheel Size: 16x6.5
Wheel load rating: 3580 pounds
Offset: 0mm

So, what have I considered so far?

1. Separation between current tires is 5.0". By using this size tire the separation would be 2.8". This would appear to be sufficient.

2. Currently there is 6" of suspension travel between the top of the tire and the floor of the 5th wheel. This would be reduced to 4.9". This, too, seems sufficient.

3. The passenger side shocks currently sit 3/4" away from the tire. This might be dicey with a bigger tire and wheel. If the tire is too close the options are to (a) put a spacer between the wheel and the hub with longer lug nuts or (b) move the shock to the other side of the axle (likely NOT a good option.)

4. The passenger side front tire is close to the fender. I could (a) trim off part of the fender or (b) install a brace underneath to push the fender our a few tenths of an inch or (c) a combination of (a) and (b).

5. The top of the tire to the bottom of the fender is 3.5". I don't know just how much more the bigger tires would protrude. Of course, the current tires don't have a problem with hitting the inside edge of the fender. I'm not sure if the bigger tires would have an issue or not.

So, what have I missed?


Thanks for your help!!

Paul.
78 REPLIES 78

gitane59
Explorer III
Explorer III
You have done very logical research and would only make one major change.
While going with wheel choice number 2 for a slightly narrower profile and less stress on the axle with zero offset I like Ol-Bombero would match them with Michelin XPS Ribs not LTX AT's.
Here's why.

Compare the 2 tread patterns side by side and you will notice a distinct difference.
The LTX AT will have very a blocky chunky tread pattern with no obvious continuous ribs of rubber running the circumference of the tire. also it should be noted that the tires shoulders are made up of blocks of separate rubbers blocks again for traction when turning corners in poor conditions.
This is for traction in poor conditions such as rain, mud, sand, hence the AT (All Terrain)

Now the XPS Rib will have Ribs running the entire circumference of the tire for direction stability and smooth rolling. The shoulders also will have solid ribs with small lateral sipes or grooves for water extraction running the circumference of the tire . The treads shoulders on the Ribs are designed to minimize side traction when turning tight corners minimizing lateral suspension stress.
Lastly the tires which will be subject to a high continuous load factor being used on a trailer therefore the highway RIB tread pattern will run cooler than the chunky aggressive LTX All Terrain tire due to less flexing and moving if the tires treads pattern as it turns and rolls in use.
Cooler tires always equates to longer life.
2014 Landmark Savannah, Mor-Ryde IS with Dexter disc brakes, 17.5 wheels with Sumitomo skins,
2010 Ford F350 Lariat CC LB DRW 6.4L Diesel, Firestone Ride Rite Airbags

ol_Bombero-JC
Explorer
Explorer
Me Again wrote:
Or just remove the shocks and give it a try. They only have minimal value anyway.


Yikes! - "minimal value anyway"

If you ever had a trlr *without* shocks - then added them, you would/should know the "shocking" night & day difference!.:R

"Minimal value shocks" (car/truck or trailer): they are most likely OEM and (way) overdue for replacement.

BTW - If you don't need shocks - take the shocks off your car or truck!..:S..:S

~

OP: You did excellent homework.
Suggest:
1. Michelin XPS Ribs in the size you stated.
2. *If* you feel you don't have adequate clearance between tires & shocks (appears to be a bit more than 1/4 inch which is "tight") - move the shocks further inboard, which is no big deal.

Sometimes the fender supports are easily bent to provide clearance.

Wheels - supplier not important. Wheels = Alcoa.

Buy and try *one* - with the caveat....for "test purposes" (no on-the-road time) - if it doesn't provide the clearance you want, the tire & wheel are "returnable".

~

Me_Again
Explorer II
Explorer II
Or just remove the shocks and give it a try. They only have minimal value anyway.
2021 F150 2.7 Ecoboost - Summer Home 2017 Bighorn 3575el. Can Am Spyder RT-L Chrome, Kawasaki KRX1000. Retired and enjoying it! RIP DW 07-05-2021

laknox
Nomad
Nomad
Sounds like you've done a lot of research already, so my only comment is that, since you seem to have clearance issues with the shocks, why not consider a narrower tire?

Lyle
2022 GMC Sierra 3500 HD Denali Crew Cab 4x4 Duramax
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