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Winter shirting on a fiberglass keystone cougar

babun
Explorer
Explorer
I'm going to be installing insulation boards around my non moving cougar 5th wheeler soon.
Would be real easy if I could run a bead of some kind of glue/sealer along the lower outside of the rv and then stick the 1" thick 4foot wide boards to that then to the ground.
Any body know of a sealer/glue that will clean up easy next spring when the shirting comes off?
14 REPLIES 14

babun
Explorer
Explorer
B.O. Plenty wrote:
babun wrote:
I was just under the beast and it looks like I could box off along the frame rails nice and easy with the insulating boards. This will not help 100% with keeping heat in the rv but it will protect all the tanks, lines, mechanics, which is my main concern.
My plan was to heat the underside with 2 small 300watt ceramic heaters to prevent freeze ups.

What ever I do I will post pics and results after the first deep freeze. {I don't believe I just said "deep freeze", in Tenn.!!! {I'm from upstate NY originally}
A300 watt ceramic won't put out enough heat to keep your fingers warm if you were right next to it, let alone warm anything under the trailer. A 1500 watt heater only puts out 5,280 BTUs. Do the math....A 300 watt heater will produce 1,050 BTUs. about the same as a couple candles.....

The reason for the smaller heaters, is because of available 20 amp service outlet. I have over 60 feet of heat trace wire on the fresh water hose, 3 dump valves and sewer piping under the rv.
This will add heat to the underside also, while using about 16 amps of power.
By the way, I have used 2 small candles under chafing dishes to keep foods hot at parties.:)

B.O.

B_O__Plenty
Explorer II
Explorer II
babun wrote:
I was just under the beast and it looks like I could box off along the frame rails nice and easy with the insulating boards. This will not help 100% with keeping heat in the rv but it will protect all the tanks, lines, mechanics, which is my main concern.
My plan was to heat the underside with 2 small 300watt ceramic heaters to prevent freeze ups.

What ever I do I will post pics and results after the first deep freeze. {I don't believe I just said "deep freeze", in Tenn.!!! {I'm from upstate NY originally}
A300 watt ceramic won't put out enough heat to keep your fingers warm if you were right next to it, let alone warm anything under the trailer. A 1500 watt heater only puts out 5,280 BTUs. Do the math....A 300 watt heater will produce 1,050 BTUs. about the same as a couple candles.....

B.O.
Former Ram/Cummins owner
2015 Silverado 3500 D/A DRW
Yup I'm a fanboy!
2016 Cedar Creek 36CKTS

babun
Explorer
Explorer
I was just under the beast and it looks like I could box off along the frame rails nice and easy with the insulating boards. This will not help 100% with keeping heat in the rv but it will protect all the tanks, lines, mechanics, which is my main concern.
My plan was to heat the underside with 2 small 300watt ceramic heaters to prevent freeze ups.

What ever I do I will post pics and results after the first deep freeze. {I don't believe I just said "deep freeze", in Tenn.!!! {I'm from upstate NY originally}

Calicajun
Explorer
Explorer
Adding skirting around the 5th wheel will stop air flow. Will you cause a problem with mold and rot building up due to no air flow?
2014 Heartland Wildness 2775RB, 2015 Ram 2500 4x4 Mega Cab

B_O__Plenty
Explorer II
Explorer II
Stay away from Silicone. You will never that off. I would run a 2X2 around the bottom along the bottom edge of the siding maybe, then attach the sheeting to that with some screws and fender washers...??

B.O.
Former Ram/Cummins owner
2015 Silverado 3500 D/A DRW
Yup I'm a fanboy!
2016 Cedar Creek 36CKTS

laknox
Nomad
Nomad
How about screwing it to some 1x2" stakes from the back side, then sealing the gap with that DAP removable caulk?

Lyle
2022 GMC Sierra 3500 HD Denali Crew Cab 4x4 Duramax
B&W OEM Companion & Gooseneck Kit
2017 KZ Durango 1500 D277RLT
1936 John Deere Model A
International Flying Farmers 64 Year Member

DutchmenSport
Explorer
Explorer
Whatever you come with, post a photo of the finished job. This subject comes up every year, and then there's never any follow up what the poster actually did. I'm curious what the end results look like and how it was finally done.

TakingThe5th
Explorer
Explorer
Halmfamily wrote:
I would try installing them behind the bottom aluminum skirting. I would think you could Gorilla tape or silicone and adhere it to the coroplast. Of cousre you would have to climb under the rv to do this but you won't have to worry about damaged the outside.


Not sure what you plan to do with your slides but this approach might work really well for you if you work the slides. Maybe add insulation to the coroplast on the slide from below if the slides are out all the time.
TakingThe5th - Chicago, Western Suburbs
'05 Ford F350 Crew 6.0 DRW Bulletproofed. Pullrite Super 5th 18K 2100 hitch.
'13 Keystone Cougar 333MKS, Maxxfan 7500, Progressive EMS-HW50C, Grey Water System.

ZOSO
Explorer
Explorer

Halmfamily
Explorer
Explorer
I would try installing them behind the bottom aluminum skirting. I would think you could Gorilla tape or silicone and adhere it to the coroplast. Of cousre you would have to climb under the rv to do this but you won't have to worry about damaged the outside.
2008 GMC Sierra 3500 SLT DRW D/A 4x4 (Big All)
2006 Ford F350 PSD SRW King Ranch 4x4 (Henry) (Sold)
B&W Companion, 90 Aux Fuel Tank, Scan Gauge II, Curt f/m hitch, Swagman XC
2015 Forest River Sierra 360 PDEK
DW Diane, DS Michael, FB Draco and Sabian

babun
Explorer
Explorer
whiteeye42 wrote:
RTV silicone would work but i would think insulation boards would be to light weight to with stand any type of wind


As a retired construction site foreman, I still have "cheap' access to industrial 4'x 12' long, one inch thick or 2 inch thick insulation.
It is pretty strong, especially since it will be only about 2 feet high from ground to bottom of RV.
I have a way of securing to the ground, my concern was/is the glue/sealers affect on the gel coat of the rv.
Don't want to remove them next spring and pull chucks out of the Cougar!!

whiteeye42
Explorer
Explorer
RTV silicone would work but i would think insulation boards would be to light weight to with stand any type of wind
Me,Wife two boys and two dogs
2008 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 4x4 DRW 6.7 cummins
2008 Jayco Eagle 341 RLQS 37' with B&W turnover ball & companion hitch
using rotochoks
add state map

TakingThe5th
Explorer
Explorer
Not sure of the composition of the insulation you will be using but you might also consider some of the various tapes available. On house trailers I see a 2x2 framing is often used.
TakingThe5th - Chicago, Western Suburbs
'05 Ford F350 Crew 6.0 DRW Bulletproofed. Pullrite Super 5th 18K 2100 hitch.
'13 Keystone Cougar 333MKS, Maxxfan 7500, Progressive EMS-HW50C, Grey Water System.

Allworth
Explorer II
Explorer II
Skirting??

And, No, I'm not aware of any such adhesive.
Formerly posting as "littleblackdog"
Martha, Allen, & Blackjack
2006 Chevy 3500 D/A LB SRW, RVND 7710
Previously: 2008 Titanium 30E35SA. Currently no trailer due to age & mobility problems. Very sad!
"Real Jeeps have round headlights"