Nov-15-2017 08:09 PM
Nov-18-2017 04:17 AM
Nov-18-2017 03:46 AM
Nov-17-2017 04:11 PM
John&Joey wrote:
One last tid-bit and I'll let you go. Get a cheap thermal heat gun and shoot the hubs and/or calipers after each good run (after you greased the slides, and swap out the brake fluid every 2 years.) For a long while you'll wonder why, then one day you'll say "dang, guess that guy knew something."
Nov-17-2017 03:34 PM
Nov-17-2017 03:12 PM
John&Joey wrote:
In this case I would stick with OEM spec's (also I would even buy it from Ford and pay the devil his toll make sure you state F53 or even Super Duty.)
Remember the thermostat is for the engine (and for cab comfort,) not the fluid in the radiator. If all you did was run the engine without it, the fluid would not have enough time in the radiator to cool down properly.
What you want to make sure is that the fan's thermostat is working correctly. As I remember it is a bi-metal coil that when it heats up it grabs the fan and spins it. That will bring down the temps right now. If with those few miles and those many years that coil is corroded, well you're a street smart guy.
Nov-17-2017 02:49 PM
Nov-17-2017 01:53 PM
John&Joey wrote:
FWIW, sounds like you got yourself a great rig and the prior owner was on top of things. Two things that are issues on that rig that get overlook are the rear sway bar bushings, and the brakes.
Brakes are the weak link to that rig. You need to keep the slides greased, and the fluid changed with the highest temp you can afford.
If you still have an issue then look at the flexible brake lines. Sometimes they would flake off inside and stop the fluid from moving. That's a PITA to find that one.
Nov-17-2017 01:48 PM
Nov-17-2017 01:43 PM
John&Joey wrote:
That's fantastic. Looks like the prior owner knew what they were doing. Watch out about that temp thing. As memory serves me correct that thermostat was some sort of a high performance one. Not the China cheapy you get at the stores.
Other thing you need to pay attention to is the fan. That was a thermostatically controlled fan and you should hear it "roar" when it engages. If you don't hear it roar then do some due diligence. If you do hear it roar and the temp goes down then it's all good.
Old school trick is to put some tape to it and then something that doesn't move. If the tape is broken then you know it engaged and you just couldn't hear it.
Nov-17-2017 01:32 PM
Nov-17-2017 01:26 PM
John&Joey wrote:
I know you feel like an engine with only 11k on the block after 20 years is a real find, but honestly it might not be.
Oil is only one small item. Hopefully the engine was ran at the most ideal times so that the oil kept internal rust buildup in check. For example if he put on 11k the first year then sat in a barn for 19 years you'll have problems. On the other hand if he did a 100 mile run every few months for 20 years then you got a winner.
Also oil is one of the smallest of things in my mind right now. With so few miles I'm guessing maintenance fell to the wayside. Thinking you got original antifreeze, fuel filter, brake fluid, and transmission fluid all in there from 1997.
I would run that unit very lightly in the beginning and keep a sharp eye out for puddles. Guessing that tranny could be a leaker, and maybe those brakes will lock up after some hard stopping/miles. You might have a great rig there, but I would baby it in the very beginning till the cobwebs are out of it.
Nov-17-2017 01:19 PM
Nov-17-2017 08:02 AM
lenr wrote:
Everyone should use the oil that provides the best night's sleep. However, here is a link to a technical article on why diesel oil in a gasoline engine might not be a good idea.
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/28576/comparing-gasoline-diesel-engine-oils-
To answer the original OP question, I would would use Motorcraft 5W-30 Semi-Synthetic or Mobil 1 5W-30 Full Synthetic, both for gasoline engines unless oil consumption is excessive, which might call for thicker oil.
From memory (I'm not going to cite a reference):
Ford and Honda did some research back before the turn of the century that showed that thin oil on cold startup was more important than thick oil when up to full temperature in terms of long term wear. My late 90s and 00s Ford gas engines recommended 5W-20 for this reason. (Have not owned a Ford gas engine since 2004 so have no knowledge if this has changed.)
Back even earlier GM found that increasing the polymers in the oil to move it from 10W-30 to 10W-40 caused their engines to develop more carbon deposits. (Modern engine design might have found another fix for this, but it could also be why Ford goes with thinner oil--The modular engines had a tough time with carbon.)
Quote:
Not only does 5W40 Rotella T6 meet API SM specifications (oil for gasoline engines), but it's sold as mixed-fleet oil which means it's specifically intended to simplify fleet maintenance by using it in both gasoline and diesel engines.
Nov-17-2017 07:39 AM