2000 Dutch Star 3851 Batteries Dead/No Start Issues

[rowekmr]

It has been parked for a little over a month after driving it 1 hour and leaving it plugged in at campground for a full day (to charge everything). After parking RV pushed the battery disconnect on the monitor above passenger seat up front.

Today when I tried to start generator it was completely dead (no sounds).

When I turned key for engine no buzzer no sound.

When I pushed in battery switch that connects house and chassis battery engine barely turned over-still no start.

When I pushed battery switch and tried generator it started but when I released switch it cut out. I tried it a couple times even holding button long enough where generator was charging house batteries (which showed in red zone on monitor). Each time when I released battery switch generator cut out.

Tried starting engine with generator on and generator cut out with engine barely turning over.

Finally pulled out battery tray and hooked up running car ( small 3cyl) battery to chassis battery with cheap HF jumper cables.

Turned key and voltmeter showed slightly over 12v then pressed battery switch and voltage went 1 volt higher then started engine easily.

Started generator next. Let both run for 1-2 minutes with battery switch in (finger hurting by now). Released battery switch and generator kept running.

Let both engine and generator run for about 30 minutes then shut them both off and restarted both with no issues. Started them back up and let them run another 30 minutes.
Chassis batteries replaced beginning of season and house batteries replaced 3 months ago.

I plan to go back out with more tools and voltmeters. Where should I start looking/testing?

Thanks

[rowekmr]

Sorry to say nope. I had it gone through at the RV service center incl fluids right after I got it and before I got it I had a prebuy inspection by a RV mechanic.
Just got it this past summer.

dougrainer wrote:
Green is Onan. Yellow is Powertech. Now for to state you have only seen it once. How long have you owned the RV? Do you not check the fluid levels in the Onan????????? Doug

[dougrainer]

Green is Onan. Yellow is Powertech. Now for to state you have only seen it once. How long have you owned the RV? Do you not check the fluid levels in the Onan????????? Doug

[rowekmr]

I feel silly saying I believe it’s the Onan. I’ve only seen it once and I believe it’s green if that helps answer the question.

dougrainer wrote:
You need to post which Genset you have. Do you have the Powertech? If so, Powertech sells a plug in charge module to keep the chassis batteries charged and supplies the necessary 12 volts to keep the Genset running, when on Genset. If you do NOT have this module on a Newmar Powertech genset and you run the Genset for more than 6 hours, the chassis batteries will be depleted and go dead and when that happens the genset stops. Doug

[dougrainer]

You need to post which Genset you have. Do you have the Powertech? If so, Powertech sells a plug in charge module to keep the chassis batteries charged and supplies the necessary 12 volts to keep the Genset running, when on Genset. If you do NOT have this module on a Newmar Powertech genset and you run the Genset for more than 6 hours, the chassis batteries will be depleted and go dead and when that happens the genset stops. Doug

[CA_Traveler]

Due to parasitic drains on both batteries with everything turned off I installed disconnect switches on both battery banks. Much easier to use switches than to remove battery cables. And turn off the solar.

[rowekmr]

Thanks DougRainer for all the useful info.

It's still in storage but when it warms up I will make sure I have the right size and good quality batteries.

I will have them check the solar charger.

I appreciate the explanation for the genset going out because lack of 12v. I assumed it powered itself.

These systems are pretty complex with the details. I need to do some more learning lol

I will learn more about the convertor/battery chargers.

dougrainer wrote:
1. 2000 DSDP, will NOT always keep the chassis batteries fully charged while plugged in. The DSDP uses an Intellitec bi charge relay system to engage BOTH battery banks to charge from the Converter OR Inverter/Charger which ever you have. The Converter was standard and the Inverter/Charger was an option back then. The problem with the Bi directional charge system is simple, the Charger MUST be OVER 13.2 volts for the system to charge the chassis batteries. BUT, once the charge voltage goes to float, that charge voltage drops below 13.1 and the chassis doe not stay in the loop.
2. 2000 DSDP has a small solar charger above the drivers seat with a charge LED indicator on the dash by the radio. THAT small solar charger is installed to overcome the very small parasitic 12 volt draws caused by the Diesel chassis 12 volt controls. Odds are THAT solar charger is NOT working due to the age of your unit.
3. The Genset (Either ONAN or Powertech) do NOT have a battery charger. They also start from the chassis battery bank on your DSDP
4. YOU DO NOT HAVE A FULLY CHARGED BATTERY/S ON THE CHASSIS BANK.
5. You need to connect a small 10 to 20 amp battery charger to the chassis battery bank and charge for 24 to 48 hours to get those batteries back up to full charge. Doing what you did only put a small surface charge on the chassis bank and they will go dead in a few days.
6. The reason the Genset cut off when you released the button was because the Gensets do NOT produce any 12 volt power and NEED the power from a 12 volt source to stay running. Doug

It is NOT unusual for the chassis engine to NOT start from the Battery Boost switch. The POWER it takes coupled with DEAD batteries(the batteries pull some of the needed current) means that the starter will not engage. What you need to do, is, use a toothpick to keep the Battery Boost switch engaged and then let the Shore Power or Genset run for 30 to 60 minutes to get a surface charge on the Chassis battery bank, then the engine will start.

[rowekmr]

Sorry for delay.
I have wet cell batteries.

Previous owner had chassis batteries installed. I had house batteries installed at the beginning of the season. I was a newbie to this so didn't know the specs of that the coach requires just trusted the RV shop that said that these were good batteries for it.

Found out the chassis batteries have a cut off switch in the rear which I used last time I left it and both generator and engine started with no issues.

Sam Spade wrote:

rowekmr wrote:

I plan to go back out with more tools and voltmeters. Where should I start looking/testing?

What type of batteries do you have ? Wet cell or AGM or ???
And when you put in the new ones did you "manually" charge them fully first ??

First check that the batteries are really charging when you think they are. Most configurations charge BOTH sets when the engine is on but only the house batteries when on gen or shore power.

You may have a situation where you need to physically disconnect a main cable at both battery sets when not in use. This is often MUCH easier than trying to trace down parasitic draws when you think everything is OFF.

It takes WAY longer than an hour to recharge the batteries if they are substantially discharged.

[dougrainer]

1. 2000 DSDP, will NOT always keep the chassis batteries fully charged while plugged in. The DSDP uses an Intellitec bi charge relay system to engage BOTH battery banks to charge from the Converter OR Inverter/Charger which ever you have. The Converter was standard and the Inverter/Charger was an option back then. The problem with the Bi directional charge system is simple, the Charger MUST be OVER 13.2 volts for the system to charge the chassis batteries. BUT, once the charge voltage goes to float, that charge voltage drops below 13.1 and the chassis doe not stay in the loop.
2. 2000 DSDP has a small solar charger above the drivers seat with a charge LED indicator on the dash by the radio. THAT small solar charger is installed to overcome the very small parasitic 12 volt draws caused by the Diesel chassis 12 volt controls. Odds are THAT solar charger is NOT working due to the age of your unit.
3. The Genset (Either ONAN or Powertech) do NOT have a battery charger. They also start from the chassis battery bank on your DSDP
4. YOU DO NOT HAVE A FULLY CHARGED BATTERY/S ON THE CHASSIS BANK.
5. You need to connect a small 10 to 20 amp battery charger to the chassis battery bank and charge for 24 to 48 hours to get those batteries back up to full charge. Doing what you did only put a small surface charge on the chassis bank and they will go dead in a few days.
6. The reason the Genset cut off when you released the button was because the Gensets do NOT produce any 12 volt power and NEED the power from a 12 volt source to stay running. Doug

It is NOT unusual for the chassis engine to NOT start from the Battery Boost switch. The POWER it takes coupled with DEAD batteries(the batteries pull some of the needed current) means that the starter will not engage. What you need to do, is, use a toothpick to keep the Battery Boost switch engaged and then let the Shore Power or Genset run for 30 to 60 minutes to get a surface charge on the Chassis battery bank, then the engine will start.

[Bruce_Brown]

If you have a load tester available do a load test on each battery. It sounds as If you may have a defective one that is dragging the others down.

Years ago I had a new car battery that went bad after a few months so it does happen.

[kerrlakeRoo]

Check all battery connections for corrosion, then check voltages, everything off, should be around 12.5 since you just ran everything, wait a couple days and check again If voltage is well down on one set you may have a phantom load dragging it down.

[Sam_Spade]

rowekmr wrote:

I plan to go back out with more tools and voltmeters. Where should I start looking/testing?

What type of batteries do you have ? Wet cell or AGM or ???
And when you put in the new ones did you "manually" charge them fully first ??

First check that the batteries are really charging when you think they are. Most configurations charge BOTH sets when the engine is on but only the house batteries when on gen or shore power.

You may have a situation where you need to physically disconnect a main cable at both battery sets when not in use. This is often MUCH easier than trying to trace down parasitic draws when you think everything is OFF.

It takes WAY longer than an hour to recharge the batteries if they are substantially discharged.