I want to point out a couple of differences between the K4 and the K5, and why I chose the K5.
Few things here. On the back side with the red arrow is the release button to adjust for the thickness of the stock. Pushing down on the gray button, releases if from the teeth, (yellow arrow), and then the clamp slides in or out to get you close.
The red circle is for the final clamping of the stock. Just a push on the lever and the stock is nice and tight. Once the stock is in place, you drill the holes.
Clamping, unclamping and drilling are all done from the same side.
Few things here. On the back side with the red arrow is the release button to adjust for the thickness of the stock. Pushing down on the gray button, releases if from the teeth, (yellow arrow), and then the clamp slides in or out to get you close.
The red circle is for the final clamping of the stock. Just a push on the lever and the stock is nice and tight. Once the stock is in place, you drill the holes.
Clamping, unclamping and drilling are all done from the same side.
Also added one of these. This clamp is used when clamping at a 90 degree angle, usually with larger pieces of plywood. The side with the pin goes into the hole that was drilled with the jig. The other side clamps to the flat surface of the second piece.
Even though I have it, I don't use it very often, but, depending on what for project I am working on, it does come in handy.
Even though I have it, I don't use it very often, but, depending on what for project I am working on, it does come in handy.
I also added one of these clamps which has a deeper throat than the one that came with the K5 Master System.
The red arrow points to an adjustment screw, which is used when clamping stock. If the clamp doesn't get tight enough or is too tight when clamping the stock, this screw will correct that.
Having additional throat depth can be a plus at times.
The red arrow points to an adjustment screw, which is used when clamping stock. If the clamp doesn't get tight enough or is too tight when clamping the stock, this screw will correct that.
Having additional throat depth can be a plus at times.
Brob wrote:
Which Kreg kit do you have?
I am about to order one and was wondering.
STBRetired wrote:
This kit is the one I have except it came in a black plastic fitted case and has 2 drill bits. I like that the part with the toggle clamp can be screwed down to the workbench, but there is still the portable piece that you just move the drill guide to and it mounts to the vise grip so that you can use it on pieces too big to put on the bench. The vacuum attachment works well, but I don't like listening to the vacuum running so I rarely, if ever, use it.
When I was looking at Kreg Jigs, I about went cross eyed looking at pictures and reading material.
I narrowed it down to 2 of them, one was the K4 system, the other was the K5 system. The K4 system is the one that STB has.
The one I have looks like this.
STBRetired wrote:
Yeah, that makes sense. The Kreg jig moves up on thicker stock so that the screw will exit the stock in the center of the edge. That is why your screws are not centered in the piece. You essentially lowered the jig by raising the workpiece so it shifted the hole towards the edge.
BTW, you can get the screws in either head style in any length. Some stores just don't carry the complete collection. But like you said, one the glue sets, it does most of the holding anyway.
Here's a picture that I took which shows how the hole moves as I moved the board up and then drilled the hole to try to eliminate drilling through the top of the rail.
You can see how the holes moved nearer the edge of the board, which affected where the hole exited the edge of the board, as was posted above.
The second thing I forgot to mention is with this picture.
The 1.5" wide black walnut here is shown with the Kreg jig set for 1/2" thick stock. Adding the 3/8" block at the bottom, will work for this setup. If, however, I was using 3/4" thick stock, and had the jig set for 3/4" thickness, and 1.5" wide stock, this setup would not work.
The piece of the Kreg jig with the holes would be higher than it is now for the 3/4" stock, so adding 3/8" to the bottom would still not work for that setup. Hope that makes sense.
The 1.5" wide black walnut here is shown with the Kreg jig set for 1/2" thick stock. Adding the 3/8" block at the bottom, will work for this setup. If, however, I was using 3/4" thick stock, and had the jig set for 3/4" thickness, and 1.5" wide stock, this setup would not work.
The piece of the Kreg jig with the holes would be higher than it is now for the 3/4" stock, so adding 3/8" to the bottom would still not work for that setup. Hope that makes sense.
Something I forgot to mention last night. Here's a picture of 2 different screw heads used by Kreg. The one on the right, is for a 1" long coarse thread screw. The one on the left, is a 1.25" coarse thread screw.
You can see the different size heads between the 2. In order to get the screw heads not to stick out the back side of the bottom rail, I had to use the 1" size. I prefer the 1.25" when I can, because it gives me a little more strength in both pieces of wood, but, hey, once the glue dries, the screws won't be doing all the work anyhow.
You can see the different size heads between the 2. In order to get the screw heads not to stick out the back side of the bottom rail, I had to use the 1" size. I prefer the 1.25" when I can, because it gives me a little more strength in both pieces of wood, but, hey, once the glue dries, the screws won't be doing all the work anyhow.
So, with all that fiasco, where did I end up the day?
HERE!
The cabinet front is not glued to the plywood, yet, but the rest of this is glued and screwed together.
So, hopefully, again, tomorrow, I can glue this into place and move to the other side.
In case you wonder why things take extra time, sometimes, well, it's just little things like today's episode!
HERE!
The cabinet front is not glued to the plywood, yet, but the rest of this is glued and screwed together.
So, hopefully, again, tomorrow, I can glue this into place and move to the other side.
In case you wonder why things take extra time, sometimes, well, it's just little things like today's episode!
That also created this scenario, where the head of the screw stuck out just a touch on the back side. Depending on how I held the screw and the driver, I managed to eliminate nearly all of that.
I decided to live with it, since it won't be seen anyway.
I decided to live with it, since it won't be seen anyway.
Unfortunately, that also created this scenario, which moved the hole in the bottom a little nearer the edge, but still workable.
