The second was to add some pressure from an additional clamp, like so...
Why not just use a steel clamp?
The clamp I actually added pressure to was larger than this one, and the throat of the steel clamp was not deep enough to clamp the wood, but was deep enough to add pressure to the plastic clamp.
Obviously, I need more deeper throat clamps. Lol.
Why not just use a steel clamp?
The clamp I actually added pressure to was larger than this one, and the throat of the steel clamp was not deep enough to clamp the wood, but was deep enough to add pressure to the plastic clamp.
Obviously, I need more deeper throat clamps. Lol.
Sometimes when working on a project, when stumbling upon a situation that requires some outside the box thinking,,, it can be enjoyable coming up with a solution to said problem.
Such was the case while I was gluing and needed to apply more pressure than my regular plastic clamp could deliver. 2 different ways to handle the situation.
One was to add a block of wood to increase the spring pressure....
Such was the case while I was gluing and needed to apply more pressure than my regular plastic clamp could deliver. 2 different ways to handle the situation.
One was to add a block of wood to increase the spring pressure....
And yes, I am still working on the wooden sink, periodically. I knew inquiring minds wanted to know.
Here, you can see the top piece is screwed on, but only on the one side, to allow for the legs to fold.
The screws are sunk nearly 1" so that when using a saw, the saw blade won't contact the screws.
If the top piece gets too damaged, it is easily replaced.
I did allow the hinges to protrude from the top a little, as I knew I was going to cover the top with a plate, and it would not matter.
The screws are sunk nearly 1" so that when using a saw, the saw blade won't contact the screws.
If the top piece gets too damaged, it is easily replaced.
I did allow the hinges to protrude from the top a little, as I knew I was going to cover the top with a plate, and it would not matter.
Here is a side pic of the completed sawhorse. You can see I used chain to keep the legs from separating. The legs are currently set at about 17" apart an the bottom, measuring from inside to inside of the legs.
Today I picked up a replacement router bit. That means that I finished the sawhorses today!
I can hear the cheering in the background! Yay, no more sawhorse pics after tonight. Well, maybe. Lol.
Just a quick side note on the Ryobi portable saw. A 15 degree cut is about maximum to still be able to cut through a 1.5" thick piece of wood.
My saw only has a 5 - 1/2" blade. Some of the newer versions of this saw have a 6 - 1/2" blade, and one has a 7 - 1/4" which should be able to cut through 1.5" lumber at 45 degrees.
I can hear the cheering in the background! Yay, no more sawhorse pics after tonight. Well, maybe. Lol.
Just a quick side note on the Ryobi portable saw. A 15 degree cut is about maximum to still be able to cut through a 1.5" thick piece of wood.
My saw only has a 5 - 1/2" blade. Some of the newer versions of this saw have a 6 - 1/2" blade, and one has a 7 - 1/4" which should be able to cut through 1.5" lumber at 45 degrees.
I was working on the sawhorses tonight, and had a slight mishap.
No, I didn't remove any body parts.
I applied a little too much pressure while using the router, and ruined the bit I was using.
Time to go the store tomorrow for another one, so I can finish these puppies.
No, I didn't remove any body parts.
I applied a little too much pressure while using the router, and ruined the bit I was using.
Time to go the store tomorrow for another one, so I can finish these puppies.
When they are folded up, they will look something like this, and reasonably flat when set up to use.
