Atwood g10-3e question no power at switch

[Kenmartin1]

Atwood g10-3e no power at switch or outside at unit, but fuse is good. Does anyone know if the power goes through the switch before going to unit? Could my switch be bad? It's the type of switch with the red light that let's you know when it's lit. Thanks Ken

[Old-Biscuit]

wa8yxm wrote:
I can not be sure of all models but most of the Atwoods I know of have 120vac delivered to the "Rear" (inside the motor home) of the water heater, tehre is no 120 volt at all to the outside or to the switches, they are all 12 volt.

If you access the "Rear" (where the pipes connect) you will see a box, may be black plastic, or metal, it will have 3 pair of wires going to it.

120 volt in (ROMEX)
120 volt out (To Heat element)
12 volt control

inside the box is a relay

The switches tell the control board to use Gas, or to close that relay when heat is needed.

DC Relay only used on 2004 and later combination (electric & propane) models.

OP's is a 1996 vintage propane only. His issue was a loose connector

[LVJ58]

Glad to hear you found the problem and got it fixed...

Best of luck & travel safe.......

[wa8yxm]

I can not be sure of all models but most of the Atwoods I know of have 120vac delivered to the "Rear" (inside the motor home) of the water heater, tehre is no 120 volt at all to the outside or to the switches, they are all 12 volt.

If you access the "Rear" (where the pipes connect) you will see a box, may be black plastic, or metal, it will have 3 pair of wires going to it.

120 volt in (ROMEX)
120 volt out (To Heat element)
12 volt control

inside the box is a relay

The switches tell the control board to use Gas, or to close that relay when heat is needed.

[John_Joey]

Kenmartin1 wrote:
Atwood g10-3e no power at switch or outside at unit, but fuse is good. Does anyone know if the power goes through the switch before going to unit? Could my switch be bad? It's the type of switch with the red light that let's you know when it's lit. Thanks Ken

That's what was the problem with mine. If there is power to the switch, but none to the heater then it's more then likely the switch. When I bought the new switch I found out that they are 15 amp yet the circuit is 20amp. Might explain why the old switch went bad.

Sorry just read you do not have 110 but only 12v. Your 12v switch still might be bad though. That is easy to check. Just disconnect the leads and test for continuity with the switch on and off. 5 second job.

[Old-Biscuit]

Loose connection sure beats having to try and find broken wire.

Hot water....whoo-hoo!

[Kenmartin1]

My unit only has 12v to fire gas... No 110. I found a loose connection, and got power to the switch. The heater lot right up (a beautiful sight and sound) Thanks for the help!

[LVJ58]

Kenmartin1 wrote:
Atwood g10-3e no power at switch or outside at unit, but fuse is good. Does anyone know if the power goes through the switch before going to unit? Could my switch be bad? It's the type of switch with the red light that let's you know when it's lit. Thanks Ken

Are you referring to the 110vac power to heating element or 12vdc to heat with propane ??

[Old-Biscuit]

12V DC goes thru FUSE down the wire to switch.
No 12V DC at switch....broken wire somewhere between FUSE and switch


OR bad ground

[Kenmartin1]

I tested the wires on the back of the switch and do not have 12 v. I do have 12 coming out of the water heater fuse. Where could the power be broken?

[Old-Biscuit]

G10-3E is a propane only WH.
Depends on where t-stats are located.....front or rear of WH

FRONT:
12V DC power comes from DC Dist. Panel (fused) to switch.
From switch to 'normal' t-stat and then back to circuit board (Brown wires)
From circuit board to ECO and then to gas valve solenoids (Red wires)

REAR:
12V DC power comes from DC Dsit. Panel (Fused) to switch
From switch to ECO to normal t-stats (White wire) and then to circuit board (Brown wire)
From circuit board to gas valve solenoid (Red wire)