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B+ motorhomes

Daniel_C_
Explorer
Explorer
I just bought a Trail Lite B+ 211s with 8.1 Chevy
engine. This is my fifth motorhome (others range
from an old 20' Vagabond, and three Winnegagos, from 19 to 32'. This vehicle is fantastic. I am
using it as a mobile office (and sneaking in a fun
journey from time to time). It gets about 9.5mpg
and I believe I could pull a bus behind it if I wanted! I paid low $40's which is about what I had expected to pay for a five or six year old Chinook with a nicer interior, but fewer features
(slide). I am delighted thus far.
Dan
2006 Lexington 235S; 6.8L Ford E450,
2005 30RLS Outback Sydney Edition,
2007 Jeep Compass
2009 Mini Cooper S
3,721 REPLIES 3,721

McZippie
Explorer
Explorer
Orion_42 wrote:
Finally received and installed new sofa-bed and cab captains chair (driver side not in yet). Totally updated the interior to as-new condition on this 2001 model. TV replaced with LCD and relocated to where you can actually watch it from the dinette (has swing-out bracket). Feeble factory cab seats replace with slightly larger, more plush captains chairs (6-way power driver seat) and adjustable lumbar support. New carpets throughout. Indirect 12V LED rope lighting behind new oak valences under side overhead cabinets.


Very Nice!!!. I really like your Rig.

McZippie
Explorer
Explorer
Gene in NE wrote:
cheeze1 wrote:
Ok gang, I'm going to whine about a question that has been discussed in the past. I have that ridiculous 'access door' to my house battery...Anyway, I have seem numerous discussions about having 2 house batteries and some have also mentioned having 2 6v in series instead of a single 12. My major whine is that checking the battery is a royal PITA and I would love to do some work and switch to a slide out tray. It would mean cutting that area of the coach and then fitting some kind of support system for the slide out. Anyone have ideas?? I just thought this would kick off some excitement during the upcoming winter doldrums.(read: I CAN'T WORK ON MY RIG!).
๐Ÿ™‚
You are slightly luckier than I with an access door. I don't even have that. I have to crawl under and then almost sit up next to my single 12V battery. One of our members, Gary Swanson, put in a second battery on his rig. He turned them sideways and put something under them to raise them above the retaining lip of the support. Bad things happend for him, the support bracket weld let loose and he almost lost his batteries. I had thought about adding a second 12 Volt battery or even thought about 2-6 Volt golf cart batteries. Then decided that the single really has not been a problem for us. It is a pain to check the acid level. They do sell a solution for that at Camping World Remote Battery Fill.

The salvation for us, is that we do not spend much time merely sitting in one spot. We tend to camp overnight and then move on in the morning. The engine alternator keeps the single battery fully charged. Rarely do we use shore power long enough for the converter to overcharge the battery and boil out the acid.

For those camping in one place for extended time without shore power, the single battery would soon be depleted.

Replacement of one 12V every 7 years is not that big of a deal and a little less expensive than replacing 2. ๐Ÿ˜‰


Ford diesel vans have there batteries mounted on the passenger side frame rails. My Rig came with 2 batteries, I purchased another Ford OEM frame rail battery box off E-bay and switched to maintenance free AGM batteries.

Orion_42
Explorer II
Explorer II
Cheeze, hey bro! I would try the following in order to see which one will remove the glue: Goo Gone; acetone (carefully - test an area and don't dwell); wet sand (600 paper) followed by heavy-duty rubbing compound. I had some residual glue from the prior owner's removal and ended up doing the last approach since I wet-sanded and compounded (machine) the whole coach and brought it back to a nice shine. It actually wet sanded very quickly smoothed out a lot of "grain" that made the gel-coat look dull.

As for the table flange, Cabelas has some nice seat flanges and posts that could be used. I used their flanges on a restored boat for mounting the captain's chairs and they are pretty flush with no big hole in the middle. There are several types to choose from.
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2001 Trail Lite B+ 211

Gene_in_NE
Explorer II
Explorer II
cheeze1 wrote:
...I tried to remove that 'decorative' tape stripe that goes around the coach about 1/2 way up. I thought for sure I could cajole it off nicely and then put something much cooler or do without. The glue stuck to the wall and the plastic pulled off, and as you know, getting those kinds of glue off is a royal PITA. So instead I'm going over it...
You know what is frustrating, is a small corner comes loose by itself, but if you want to remove the rest....well it just does not want to budge. Been tempted to use a sander. But, with my luck I would get into the wall paper or gouge too deep or not deep enough....Aaaaah.:h
2002 Trail-Lite Model 211-S w/5.7 Chevy (click View Profile)
Gene

cheeze1
Explorer
Explorer
Orion, We must be 'brothers from another mother', 'cause that is my philosophy exactly. I love to 'bring things back'. Some of my favorite tools are old ones, like my 1954 Shopsmith that my father in law gave me.
I've been thinking about that floor flange 'cause the 4 fold out legs are a little wobbly.
I tried to remove that 'decorative' tape stripe that goes around the coach about 1/2 way up. I thought for sure I could cajole it off nicely and then put something much cooler or do without. The glue stuck to the wall and the plastic pulled off, and as you know, getting those kinds of glue off is a royal PITA. So instead I'm going over it. I'll let you know tomorrow if it works.
Chas Morristown, NJ
Trail Lite

:W

Orion_42
Explorer II
Explorer II
Thanks Cheeze, yes, I'm a frugal Yankee that loves to tinker. I get more satisfaction out of bringing a unit back to original (or better) glory than buying new off the lot. But, I won't say I wouldn't love to HAVE a new unit.

I did like your redo. That looks like a much easier sleeping setup. I think I would go with a flush-mounted floor flange for a pedestal table in your setup. Perhaps you did.

ha ha...what were you doing that screwed up the walls?
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2001 Trail Lite B+ 211

cheeze1
Explorer
Explorer
Gotcha Orion, you are a devious DIY'er like myself! I figured that was where you went. When I embarked on my redo, I decided so seek out rattles that I KNEW did not belong there. Sure enough after taking out the light, I found screws and wire scraps rolling around in that air space!!
Just got our baby home, hope it warms enough for me to install the fog lights. I found a nice neutral contact paper to go over the stripe on the inside walls that I screwed up.
Chas Morristown, NJ
Trail Lite

:W

Orion_42
Explorer II
Explorer II
The bottom of the cabinet has a 3/4" air space between the floor of the cabinet and the finished face underneath, that the existing light is mounted onto. The space goes all the way, unobstructed, between the forward end of the cabinets (near cab) and the aft end (near kitchen). I drilled a hole near the forward end (behind my added valence) and fished the wire from there to the hole where the existing light is mounted, and where the wires are accessed. The valences were mounted to the bottom of the cabined about 1" behind the existing light fixture.
----------------------
2001 Trail Lite B+ 211

cheeze1
Explorer
Explorer
So you fished the wire thru the cabinet base to behind your valance?
Chas Morristown, NJ
Trail Lite

:W

Orion_42
Explorer II
Explorer II
Cheeze, I got the seats and sofa-bed from http://www.discountvantruck.com. They took a lot longer to get than I expected (3 months!)since they are suddenly very busy.

The TV bracket I used was pretty heavy duty from Best-Buy, but if I had to do it again, I would probably start with the one available from Campers-World as it's more likely designed for road use. I did add an additional custom-made padded bracket below the TV where the TV parks during travel, so there's no vibration or movement.

The lighting is wired into the 12V coach lights below the overhead cabinets. If you remove the light assembly, you easily access the wire-nutted wiring for those lights. I just connected to that connection on each side and added a rocker switch to separately turn the rope lights on. The lights ordered were "LED- 12v 6'6" Warm White Rope Light package" from CBConcept.com.
They provide a nice warm indirect lighting that is way better than the glaring stock lights (which are still there, if needed). Below is a poor picture, but gives some idea how the lighting looks.

below is a pic of the back of the oak valence I added with the rope lights attached prior to mounting the valence on the bottom of the cabinet.
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2001 Trail Lite B+ 211

Gene_in_NE
Explorer II
Explorer II
cheeze1 wrote:
Audrey, If you go back in this thread to December of last year you will see the mods I made to my 213. It's modeled after the layout of the BornFree "Built for Two" and works real well. I think a lot depends on your need for the dinette. I converted the dinette top to a table with folding legs and it works fine for us.
Audrey - cheeze1 did do a great job and here is the link to some pictures December 7, 2008.
2002 Trail-Lite Model 211-S w/5.7 Chevy (click View Profile)
Gene

cheeze1
Explorer
Explorer
Orion, NEI!!!(opposite of TMI?) Where/what are the cab seats from? Which tv bracket did you use, have you driven it since then, and if so does the tv vibrate or hop?
what did you wire the rope lights to and what effect does it have at nite? I was thinking of adding some small LED'S in strategic areas for a little directional lighting at night.
Chas Morristown, NJ
Trail Lite

:W

Orion_42
Explorer II
Explorer II
Finally received and installed new sofa-bed and cab captains chair (driver side not in yet). Totally updated the interior to as-new condition on this 2001 model. TV replaced with LCD and relocated to where you can actually watch it from the dinette (has swing-out bracket). Feeble factory cab seats replace with slightly larger, more plush captains chairs (6-way power driver seat) and adjustable lumbar support. New carpets throughout. Indirect 12V LED rope lighting behind new oak valences under side overhead cabinets.
----------------------
2001 Trail Lite B+ 211

cheeze1
Explorer
Explorer
Ok, that is also something to consider. I was thinking of using the back up light circuit more as a 'master switch' than power source so I couldn't turn on the lights at the wrong time. However now I remember I would like to have them as 'work lights' when the engine is off.
Chas Morristown, NJ
Trail Lite

:W

Orion_42
Explorer II
Explorer II
Cheeze, Ok, good, I kind of thought so....sounds like nice lights.

One other clarification from an earlier post of mine. It turns out the backup light wiring (tapped at the tail light) IS sufficient to operate the low cost driving lights I mounted below the rear bumper for backup lights. Upon disassembly of one of the lights I found a small short to ground which was causing it to draw more current and prevent the other lights from lighting. Not sure why id didn't blow the fuse though. Odd. Fixed it and all working great.
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2001 Trail Lite B+ 211