B+ motorhomes

[Daniel_C_]

I just bought a Trail Lite B+ 211s with 8.1 Chevy
engine. This is my fifth motorhome (others range
from an old 20' Vagabond, and three Winnegagos, from 19 to 32'. This vehicle is fantastic. I am
using it as a mobile office (and sneaking in a fun
journey from time to time). It gets about 9.5mpg
and I believe I could pull a bus behind it if I wanted! I paid low $40's which is about what I had expected to pay for a five or six year old Chinook with a nicer interior, but fewer features
(slide). I am delighted thus far.

[CorgiThreePal]

Thanks Chas. And Ches and Marie, a question please. The automatic jacks are hydraulic, correct? If I am correct, do you have a one step push button system whereby the jacks level themselves and the unit or do you have the cheaper type where there is a joystick? The joystick system which I am considering is $800 cheaper than the one touch push button system. The sensible thing to do would be to get myself to a dealer and check this out, but we live in the country and that entails a 120 miles round trip which I do not relish. I trust this thread much more than I do the dealers with whom I have been talking. You guys are great!

[cheeze1]

Welcome Corgi3!
One of our regulars here, BPlus, added jacks to his TL 225. I think they are scissor jacks, but he will soon respond and of course discipline me for not remembering all the details!!
Chas

[Coalminer_UG]

My unit has both manual and/or automatic jacks. I have used them in both configurations and I really like them.

[CorgiThreePal]

This thread has the most helpful info of any I have found and I have a query. I have a 2007 Lexington GTS 270 S and want to put hydraulic jacks on it (My choice of camping sites never seems to be a level one.) There appears to be two choices--joystick (cheaper) and automatic touch. Comments or suggestions please. Having had a pop-up, three tagalongs, and a fifth wheel, the motor home is an entirely different creature. I don't want to buy one system and then regret it. Thanks.

[B-Plus]

Gary,I got it at www.DatelMeters.com I think it was around $25.00
I wired it so that I can monitor the coach and the chassis battery with a 3 way toggle switch, left is coach , middle is off , right is chassis. Sure has come in handy for me.
Dario

[Gary_Swanson]

markopolo wrote:
from Dario:

Markopolo, I updated my Volt meter to LED fro LCD so I could see it in the dark, I installed the LCD volt meter in my new Roadtrek only because I had it because ,I don't really RV overnight in the Roadtrek but I had it so I used it.

I'm wondering where Markopolo found this LED volt meter pictured on forum page 176?

[Gene_in_NE]

burlmart wrote:
Gene, I would do that shed, but our subd. might stop me. One of our concerns of a cover is to keep the extreme heat out...

I understand completely about sub-division rules. Around here we have lots of trees for shade. The zoning rules sometimes are so crazy. We can pave the ground to the lot line. We can put up temporary or movable covers on that paving. However, if the structure is determined to be permanent, then depending on the zoning may have to be 5', 10', 25' or more from side property lines. You can plant bushes or put up fences right next to the property line.

[burlmart]

Gene, I would do that shed, but our subd. might stop me. One of our concerns of a cover is to keep the extreme heat out. With all the glue keeping inside stuff together, I dunno...

[Gene_in_NE]

If I were not fortunate to have a building for storage, I would save my pennies until I could purchase something like this -

This particular model is 12'W x 26' L x 12' H at a price of $1,777.

The above per Superior Building and Carports

The Tyvek cover I purchased for my Class A, years ago cost me about $250 and caused rub spots on the painted surfaces. I included it with the sale.

[B-Plus]

cheeze1 wrote:
It sits in an open lot on dirt/grass, with some gravel.

Chas,forget covering it ,best thing you can do is get a good tarp and drive the RV on it , peg the tarp all around so it stays and that will take care of any further chassis rust. I know as you said you can repaint it and treat it but there are areas that you just can't get at. You want to keep the moisture from getting onto the frame.
I know I have a mental problem ,I'm a nut case on car care ( just ask my wife ) if I hear a noise ,I'll take the engine apart to find out what it is, my wife on the other hand thinks that if you leave it alone it will go away!!
I just got finished flushing all of my brake lines on 5 cars yesterday. Does it need to be done every 3 years ? Probably not ,but it's a piece of mind thing with me, 45 years ago had a car crash because a brake line let go ( that will do it for ya ) I also jack my cars up to get the weight off of the chassis and grease all of the fittings every oil change,I will not buy a car without grease fittings period!!
Also use nothing but synthetic oils and grease. I had a gear chip in my rear differential on the Corvette this year and with almost 350,000 miles and 34 years old the rear gears were still almost to factory spec's,Corvette place could not beleive it, also said the engine sounded and performed like a 20,000 mile engine. Had he not known me for the last 40 years he would have called me a liar.
I have never had any of my RV's or cars in a garage, and that's from doing proper maintence all of their lives.
Dario

[cheeze1]

It sits in an open lot on dirt/grass, with some gravel. The cover seemed to hold moisture because the chassis went from "normal" rust to much rust and peeling paint over that 6 month period.
The rust is all treatable. I have some 3M rust converter which I will be using now that it is getting warmer. They recommend powerwashing the rust and letting it dry before application. All of this would be much easier if I had it up on a lift, but we know that's not happening.
btw, how come B-Plus has a Good Sam logo? I'm a member too!

[B-Plus]

cheeze1 wrote:
Add that to the absolute MESS of rust I now have on my chassis,

Chas,what kind of rust are you talking about. What kind of surface is your rig sitting on?
Of all the vehicals I have had and left sitting outside , worst condition you can have is letting it sit on gravel or dirt. It will totally eat away the chassis in no time. My rig does not have any surface rust at all on my underside, the rig needs sit out in the open to get a good cross wind to dry the moisture from under it. Tucking it in a corner where it's protected from the wind and not letting it breath is not good. I will open my garage doors whenever I am out side so my other cars inside can get air, I noticed( 30 ) years ago that even in a garage your metal and frame will sweat and rust if not dried out , at night I will close the garage doors.

[Artum_Snowbird]

You can get your controller from Euclid Universal the phone number is 440 349-4083

and check this out too.

http://www.kinetekcontrols.com/products/datasheets/SG-02-0061_A1_RV_Motor_ControllerDS.pdf

[F250GulfportFlo]

I bought a new 2007 252DS and now I need to find a replacement part. I need to slide out room controller that is located under the bathroom sink. The part number is 22303 and the manufacturer number is KCCA0005-C. I have called every known number to the manufacturer etc, and cannot locate one. Any help is appreciated.

Mike

[cheeze1]

I've had similar experience as Dario with tree branches, tho' I think my roof is rubber. I also agree with him regarding anything contacting a surface of the coach. As tight as I fastened my cover, I noticed some abrasions on the coach when I removed it. Add that to the absolute MESS of rust I now have on my chassis, I sold the cover and the only way of covering the rig for me would be a garage, or at worst, a carport structure of some kind.