Breakdown Information

[Badeye]

Moderators Note: This thread is intending to report a problem and its resolution. If you are seeking help or information to help you resolve a problem you would best be served by initiating a thread on the class A forum proper

After some conversation with Diesel-Lover and others on this forum I thought I would try to start a thread concerning breakdowns on the road. We try to prevent this by good maintenance and driving reasonably but it can still happen. As I observed in a previous post, on a roughly 350 mile northbound drive on I-75 I saw 4 class A MH broken down. All were southbound.

If we should have a breakdown and would post the following information on this thread it could be a resource and reminder for others.

RV particulars:
Driveline (Engine, Transmission):
Miles:
Year:
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms:
Effect:
Cause:
Outcome:

This is the type of information that is recorded in the aircraft industry and other maintenance activities to track failure trends. It will take a while before we see a lot of value in this. If it continues for a time and sufficient data is available, I will analyze the data and put it into a form that I can send by email to any interested parties. I would suspect that an initial report could be done in about three months or when we have about 100 to 150 cases.

What do you think?

[Nelly1052]

1995 Holiday Rambler Navigator with 8.3, 300 hp Cummins. Intermittant problem with turning over but won't start. We're sure its not getting fuel. After it starts, sometimes it stops even going down the road. Checked fuel solinoid. WE think it may be the fuel pump but we don't know if its electric or manual. Not sure where it is. Fuel filters have been replaced. We're on the road but not sure what to do. Owner took it to dealer for problem but worked perfect while there. Anybody familiar with this problem?

[gettinright]

I just experienced a Fuel Pump Problem with the 330 Cat in my 2004 Discovery. Finally they got it repaired properly.

Would like to know if anyone else has had a Fuel Problem with CAT?

[sheba516]

<<<8.1 litre, in a Workhorse. Driving along just fine at 60mph..engine light comes on and warning says "Low Engine Power"...struggle over to a turn out shut it off, check fluids, all OK, restart every thing is OK..???Wadda..? Few days later in rain step on gas up hill engine coughs spits surges..let off gas and all OK...Wadda..?>>>

We have a Ford V10. We were loosing power when it rained. The first time was about 3 years ago when we were near Denver going up a hill and hit a downpour. The next time was last fall when we left NH heading for work in FL. It was raining, going up a hill when we lost power. We struggled along staying on flat roads as much as possible since the problem did not show itself then. After spending the night in a parking lot and running out of flat road, calling 'mechanics' in the FMCA membership book, we finally called Camping World back in Wilsonville, OR. Art spoke with the guy we dealt with there all the time and it came up with the problem which we had forgotten about.

Ford knows there is this design problem with their big engine: water sprays up off the road into the air filter. Mechanics even recommend you build a 'box' under it to help prevent this but we have not figured out how to do it.

When Art opened the air filter, sure enough the filter was full of water. He dumped it out, shook water out of the filter as best he could, then we were able to go. We made it from MA down to VA to my brothers praying for no more rain. When we were going thru Hartford, CA it was raining. Once we got thru town we found a shopping mall where we spent the night. The next day we made it to VA where Art bought a new filter and threw the wet one away.

This sounds like your problem. We try to avoid driving in rain, especially heavy rain although regular rain can cause the problem too.

Good luck

[threedogtrip]

Cummins ISB 5.9L
Allison 4 Spd

Friday:

ISB Overheated: Temps rose. High temp light on. Check engine light on. Power loss. Shut down in parking lot. Coolant blew, along with soft plug and overflow tank.

Conclusion: Water pump belt broke. Belt replaced. Added coolant, new overflow resevoir, added coolant, brought to temp. Temp stable.

Saturday:

Same symptons. Pulled onto scenic pull out.

Conclusion: Water pump probably failed (impeller?)

Will report on the rest as known.

Moral: Always carry spares belts!

Conclusion:: Water pump gone. Replaced along with thermostat.

[Mike_Wilson]

RV particulars: Alegro Bay
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Workhorse W22
Miles: < 8K
Year: 2004
Break Down Description: Brakes sticking.
Symptoms: Apparent loss of power.
Effect: Stranded on one ocassion in southern Kentucky, had to tow RV 250 miles to Knoxville, TN.
Cause: Replaced front rotors.
Outcome: Initially no cost for the first time this happened.

Brakes stuck again, 6 months out of warranty. That is when it REALLY COST ME. Workhorse said tough luck, so after 4 new rotors, calipers, wheel sensors, and other misc stuff, it cost me $4200 out of pocket.

The dealer told me the original calipers were junk and the pistons had seezed up in the bore, causing this issue. They see this very frequently. They told me Workhorse knows it, but because it was out of warranty they would not stand behind it. Pin slides were well greased (which is what Workhorse requires annually).

I loved Workhorse prior to this. Now I will never own another Workhorse chassis, and I will make sure everyone I have the opportunity to speak with knows of my Workhorse experience. I paid the bill and imediately traded the otherwise great coach in for a deisel pusher on a Freightliner chassis.

pulsar wrote:
RV particulars: 2002 Winnebago Adventurer 32V – Workhorse W-20 chassis
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Chevy 8.1L, Allison 1000
Miles: 20,155
Year: 2002
Break Down Description: (You can add any description of the problem here that you think would help others in understanding the situation and problem.)
Symptoms: RV began pulling to the right. We could smell what we thought was a burning electrical odor. When the brakes were applied, the MH pulled sharply to the left
Effect: We pulled off of the road at the earliest opportunity and called our road service (Coach-net) We advised not to drive further. (We were told later, that a wheel fire has resulted from similar incidence.)
Cause: Poorly designed brakes system. This Bosch ZOTS system, manufactured prior to October 2001, was used by many MH chassis manufacturers. I understand that an International chassis with this system was used on some school buses.
Outcome: Although only the brakes on one wheel locked up, the calipers, slides, and pads were replaced on all wheels. New pin kits were used. The right-front rotor was replaced.

Here is a link to a discussion of a National Highway Transportation Safety Administration investigation of these brakes.

Workhorse brake problems and NHSTA

Tom

[PF_PM]

8.1 litre, in a Workhorse. Driving along just fine at 60mph..engine light comes on and warning says "Low Engine Power"...struggle over to a turn out shut it off, check fluids, all OK, restart every thing is OK..???Wadda..? Few days later in rain step on gas up hill engine coughs spits surges..let off gas and all OK...Wadda..?

[Dave_Magnusson]

Although I have been a member for a few years we have only now have an class "A" and are serious about being snow birds; I look foward to your summary.

[irish2fire]

RV Particulars:Fleetwood Discovery, 275 Cummins, Allison 6 speed tranny.
Mileage: 34,000
Year: 2000

Getting ready for trip from NC to Fla. Two days prior had M3 (full service) on chassis. Loaded and ready to go. Engine turned over but would not start. Checked around coach smelled diesel fuel. Looked under engine and found fuel water seperator leaking. Tightened it , but engine still would not start. I called Cummins and talked to a technician. He said there was probably air in the fuel lines. He talked me through switching the ignition switch on and off at intervals to "fool" the fuel pump into thinking that the engine had started. It worked much to my amazement.

On my way from NC to rally at San Antonio, Tx. Just outside Austin, Tx
yellow check engine light came on. I immediatly pulled over and went around coach and could not find anything wrong. All gauges working properly, nothing unusual around the engine compartment. Again I called Cummins and talked to a technician. He advised that if everything was working normally that it was probably something minor. He recommended I go to a Cummins dealer in San Antonio after the rally. I did, and they found a wire broken at the intake heater. A quick fix.

Even though these were not on the road breakdowns, when something happens its good to know that someone has the knowledge to help you.

[dajablock]

Just found your post on speedometer problem . Same thing happened with me on our 95 adventurer. Also I have narrowed it down to the buffer and have not been able to find a source to buy it other than my chevrolet dealer ordering it to the tune of $175.00 Could You give me your source?
dajablock@lowcountry.com
David Blocker 843-835-2173

[summerwinds48]

To Abba,
Had a similar problem last year with my 1994 P30 Itasca. The speedometer system is electronic. Problem started when the speedometer was zooming up to 90mph+ while doing about 50mph. Engine idled down when this happened, but recovered when I slowed to below 47. Eventually the speedometer was always showing double the speed and the odometer was recording double mileage constantly. Could not exceed 47 mph. Talked to a speedometer shop, and they wanted to start with the control head, then work backwards. Nuts, WOuld have cost megabucks. So, I started with the speed sensors on the tranni. Replaced both the speed sensor and the ABS sensor. No change, then after researching, found the cause was a small elecronic board under the dash. It's the buffer board, the electronic equivalent of gears in mechanical speedometer system. Removed, and tracked down a replacement through Delco. Cost, $70. Installed, and now works perfect, both speedometer and odometer.

[abba12210]

fhalasz wrote:
All RV particulars:
Driveline (Engine, Transmission): Cummins ISC 350, Allison 3000MH
Miles: About 35000 (then); 43000 (now)
Year:2001
Break Down Description: Erratic gauge display, engine stumble.
Symptoms:Speedometer would flick up to maximum, then back to correct road speed, at irregular intervals (generally less than one minute apart.) At the same moment, engine would stumble, but recover to full power.
Effect: Disconcerting but driveable.
Cause: Unsure (see below)
Outcome:Corrected itself after several miles at low speed during a detour.
Recurred several days (and many miles) later. Took it to Cummins in Albuquerque on return home; they could not duplicate the problem (but charged for trying.)
Eventually I crawled under the coach and inspected two wires connected to tranny where illustration indicated the speed sensor output might be. Wires looked good; disconnected and re-connected them anyway. The problem has not recurred.

** I had same problem with an ISC / Allison 330, Would like to see that summary / count.

[JudMcLn]

RV: 2006 Allegro Bay 34XB, Jeep Grand Cherokee toad, 8300 miles, GM8.1 on a W22 Workhorse Chassis.

Driving at 60mph on I75 15 miles north of Tampa with extremely heavy traffic, lost all power steering,engine light illuminated and an almost immediate engine overheat occurred. Luckily we were traveling in the right lane and were able to safely bring the coach to a stop. Called Workhorse, they sent one of those huge tow vehicles and within two hours had been towed to a Workhorse Service Center. The serpintine belt had broke with only 8300 miles, cause was unknown.

Workhorse did a great job getting to us as fast as they did and took care of everything under the warrenty with no questions asked and no outlay of cash needed on my part at any time.

Things happen real fast when that belt breaks. Steering that monster without power steering takes a huge amount of effort. If we had been in the center or left lane we could have had real problems getting off the road safely considering how heavy the traffic was.

[joyjohnr]

First breakdown in our 2000 Holiday Rambler Imperial. Cummins ISC 350 with 47,000 miles. On our way home and two lights erupt on the dash. WARNING and STOP ENGINE. Obviously I stop the engine . After looking for anything obvious, I restart the engine. WARNING and STOP ENGINE light again. Not overheated, shows good oil pressure, everything seems O.K. but lights persist. Call Good Sam ERS and instead of a tow to a competent service center, I get a service call from totally imcompetent provider. After 48hrs (Yes 48 hrs.) they replace the oil pressure sensor. Warning light persists. I am forced to call Cummins service assistence as these clowns can't even tell me if its safe to drive. Suprise, its now drivable but needs to go to Cummins to be reprogramed to run properly.
Moral of the story. Insist that you be towed to a shop with certified and competent diesel mechanics.

[mike2wheels]

We recently broke down in Newport, Oregon, the marina RV park.

Driving a Rexhall Rolls Air on a Spartan chassis, Cummins 6CTA8.3 engine. As I was checking the coach prior to pulling out on a Friday morning I noticed an oily film on the ground next to the left front tire. It seemed that the oil in that hub was a little low so I removed the red plug to check. When I reinserted the plug the plastic window broke and pushed into the hub cavity, dumping the hub oil.

I called Good Sam ERS, who contacted Newport Diesel, who called us back. Newport Diesel said it would be Monday before they could obtain and install a new hub seal. However, one of their guys showed up in the early afternoon and removed the hub cap to take it back to the shop where they would replace the plastic window. Late that same afternoon another guy returned with the rebuilt hub cap and we were ready to go by 5 pm. We paid for labor and parts; Good Sam ERS paid for the service calls.

[macira]

Chevrolet 7.4 Vortec 4l80e transmission
65000
1999
moving along at 60+ engine died, would not restart
MH was towed to Amarillo,Texas (130 miles)
Replaced fuel pressure regulator, 8 fuel injectors, 8 Spark Plugs, Distributor cap and Rotor. $3400
Fuel presssure was only 20lbs and 4 injectors were leaking. Cap and rotor just needed new ones.
Now it runs!!