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Dead Chassis Battery

Rwake901
Explorer
Explorer
Picked up our 2014 Thor Ace 30.1 motorhome from storage yesterday and the chassis battery was completely dead. I just started it two months ago and let it run for over an hour and everything was fine then. I'm not sure why it went dead but my question is, I know when you have it plugged into shore power it charges the house batteries but does it also charge the chassis battery? I have looked and read in the owners manual but its doesn't really say. I know when the engine is running it charges both but I'm not sure about shore power. I can call Thor on Monday and find out but I thought maybe someone on here might know. If not I need to put the chassis battery on a separate charger.. Thanks Roy
11 REPLIES 11

time2roll
Nomad
Nomad
gbopp wrote:
I think Winnebago installs Trik-L-Start on at least some of it's models. Check and see if your Thor has one.
If not, install one.
+1

And if you are not plugged in all the time.... consider a 100w solar panel and controller to keep the batteries up.

zekegb
Explorer
Explorer
I discovered early in our ownership that the steps were tied to the chassis battery and leaving the steps on drained the battery. No problem starting when battery dead with the battery boost and house battery.

Did two things (school of hard knocks): 1)turn off the steps when not being used for awhile and 2) installed a battery disconnect switch on the chassis battery. This was the simple bar switch screwed into the battery. No problems with dead chassis battery since.

I do run the coach at least once a month on the road during the winter to charge all the batteries and exercise things.

larry_cad
Explorer II
Explorer II
Solving the problem of charging the chassis batteries from the on board charger in a motorhome is a problem for which the solution seems to have escaped many RV design engineers. It's not difficult to do, but they seem to fail on a regular basis. I think the theory they operate on is that the on board charger will charge the house batteries whenever they are discharged however, the on board will charge the chassis batteries only the first time they are discharged, and then basically ignore the chassis batteries even if they totally discharge. Their assumption is that you will be driving the RV and your engine alternator will do the job. That's fine if you drive frequently, but if you just sit for a while, the theory breaks down. Rather than fight it, get a Xantrex echo charge for about $110, hook it up and forget about that ever happening again. I did it several years ago because of just this problem and have never looked back. Trying to argue with RV design engineers will just get you frustrated. After all, those guys don't use RVs, so why should they have to understand how they actually work? :B
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2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
Rwake901 wrote:
The voltage did go up when I plugged in to shore power, so one would assume that the chassis battery is charging.
Yes. It should go over 13 volts.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman

Rwake901
Explorer
Explorer
RoyB wrote:
X2 on using a VOLTMETER. Should be your number item to have aboard any RV...

One of these...Available from LOWES-WALMART-AMAZON $7-$15). Harbor freight or Northern Tools used to give you one for free if you purchased $25 of items.


When you check the battery terminals a fully charged battery will read around 12.6-7VDC... Check both the motorhome batteries and the truck start battery.

When you hook up a shore power cable your battery Dc Voltage should increase to around 13.6VDC showing they are connected to your converter/charger. If you only see this VOLTS DC increase on the motorhome side and not the truck start battery then the two systems is separated. This could just be the battery disconnect switch ...

If it were me leaving my batteries unused for a long period of time the best solution is to totally disconnect them (remove negative battery terminal or have a full disconnect switch). A charged-up battery will sit for several months in good order and will not freeze with a normal winter. I did this to my batteries on the trailer tongue this winter season and they survived sitting on the outside just fine. I was reading 12.5VDC across the terminals last week.

The truck start battery is another story. It should remain connected to keep the truck computers alive and well. Otherwise if you disconnect the batteries for a long period of time your Truck systems setups may not return normally and you may have to take the vehicle to the shop ($90 per hour) to put on their system machine to reset your computer values. In this case if I was sitting outside like in your signature picture I would install one of those solar panels that lays on dashboard and plugs into a "ALWAYS HOT" 12VDC receptacle. Be sure it stays "HOT" even after you turn off your ignition key... My truck disconnects almost everything after a couple of minutes after I turn off my ignition key. Since you apparently have a connection to your garage then a 2AMP trickle charge of some sort would be easy to hookup to your truck start battery and leave on 24/7. I have to dash solar panel in my off-road JEEP setup.

If you are leaving your motorhome batteries on a constant charge over the winter months it is a good idea to check the fluid levels a couple of times. The older converters that constantly put out 13.6VDC might boil out your battery fluids in as little a two-three weeks or so. Your newer 2014 setup most likely has a smart mode converter setup which fixes this problem of boiling out your battery fluids. In my case with a multiple batteries installed I tend to be more cautious and just go ahead and check the levels like I did in the prior years. Just take a couple of minutes to pop the cell lids and look. This season I just left mine totally disconnected and they did just fine but we only had a hand full of days below freezing here and it always warmed up the next day. I checked them every couple of weeks as well and didnt find any low fluid levels haha... I will still continue to check them I reckon... Batteries don't grow on trees around here...

I even do this on my lawnmower during the winter months in my garage... Weather here in Northern Neck VA is no where near as bad in Illinois (was raised in the Mt Vernon area in a little town called Bonnie, ILL) haha..

Batteries don't come cheap - Next winter season you will be prepared I'm sure...
It is usually a required replacement if a battery drops below 0% state of charge (10.5VDC) for a long period of times. The batteries just don't recover good once they get totally discharged - especially start batteries. I have to replace mine at any rate...

Roy Ken



Thanks.. I happen to have four of these voltmeter's. ๐Ÿ™‚ I ran this test and all though my numbers where a little different. I tested the chassis battery without the shore power plugged in and with it plugged in. The voltage did go up when I plugged in to shore power, so one would assume that the chassis battery is charging. Thanks for the help...

gbopp
Explorer
Explorer
I think Winnebago installs Trik-L-Start on at least some of it's models. Check and see if your Thor has one.
If not, install one.

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
X2 on using a VOLTMETER. Should be your number item to have aboard any RV...

One of these...Available from LOWES-WALMART-AMAZON $7-$15). Harbor freight or Northern Tools used to give you one for free if you purchased $25 of items.


When you check the battery terminals a fully charged battery will read around 12.6-7VDC... Check both the motorhome batteries and the truck start battery.

When you hook up a shore power cable your battery Dc Voltage should increase to around 13.6VDC showing they are connected to your converter/charger. If you only see this VOLTS DC increase on the motorhome side and not the truck start battery then the two systems is separated. This could just be the battery disconnect switch ...

If it were me leaving my batteries unused for a long period of time the best solution is to totally disconnect them (remove negative battery terminal or have a full disconnect switch). A charged-up battery will sit for several months in good order and will not freeze with a normal winter. I did this to my batteries on the trailer tongue this winter season and they survived sitting on the outside just fine. I was reading 12.5VDC across the terminals last week.

The truck start battery is another story. It should remain connected to keep the truck computers alive and well. Otherwise if you disconnect the batteries for a long period of time your Truck systems setups may not return normally and you may have to take the vehicle to the shop ($90 per hour) to put on their system machine to reset your computer values. In this case if I was sitting outside like in your signature picture I would install one of those solar panels that lays on dashboard and plugs into a "ALWAYS HOT" 12VDC receptacle. Be sure it stays "HOT" even after you turn off your ignition key... My truck disconnects almost everything after a couple of minutes after I turn off my ignition key. Since you apparently have a connection to your garage then a 2AMP trickle charge of some sort would be easy to hookup to your truck start battery and leave on 24/7. I have to dash solar panel in my off-road JEEP setup.

If you are leaving your motorhome batteries on a constant charge over the winter months it is a good idea to check the fluid levels a couple of times. The older converters that constantly put out 13.6VDC might boil out your battery fluids in as little a two-three weeks or so. Your newer 2014 setup most likely has a smart mode converter setup which fixes this problem of boiling out your battery fluids. In my case with a multiple batteries installed I tend to be more cautious and just go ahead and check the levels like I did in the prior years. Just take a couple of minutes to pop the cell lids and look. This season I just left mine totally disconnected and they did just fine but we only had a hand full of days below freezing here and it always warmed up the next day. I checked them every couple of weeks as well and didnt find any low fluid levels haha... I will still continue to check them I reckon... Batteries don't grow on trees around here...

I even do this on my lawnmower during the winter months in my garage... Weather here in Northern Neck VA is no where near as bad in Illinois (was raised in the Mt Vernon area in a little town called Bonnie, ILL) haha..

Batteries don't come cheap - Next winter season you will be prepared I'm sure...
It is usually a required replacement if a battery drops below 0% state of charge (10.5VDC) for a long period of times. The batteries just don't recover good once they get totally discharged - especially start batteries. I have to replace mine at any rate...

Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
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CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
Load test the battery to find out it's condition. Many MHs do not charge the chassis battery on shore power. One simple remedy is to install a 2A 2 stage charger for about $30.

Running the engine for a hour is not good for it, best to not start it. Instead drive it for 25 miles so that the oil gets warm.
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
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Bob

Goldencrazy
Explorer
Explorer
My winnebago does not charge chassis. Use the boost button to start. Also turn off chassis battery when possible.

Fishinghat
Explorer II
Explorer II
I installed a small, automatic trickle charger for my chassis batteries and plugged it into my outlet for the engine block heater. That way it works only when plugged into shore power or when the generator is working, but not when I'm boondocking and on the inverter.

I suspect your coach is set up the same way. The parasite load will drain down your chassis batteries quickly unless you disconnect them from the chassis.
Holiday Rambler Navigator DP, Hummer, and Honda VT1100C Shadow

2oldman
Explorer II
Explorer II
Check it with a voltmeter. Nobody can tell you 100% for sure.
"If I'm wearing long pants, I'm too far north" - 2oldman