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Decal Shadowing

joraz
Explorer
Explorer
Just removed the front and rear cap decals from my 95. Now I see a very light blue image of where the decals were. The surrounding gel coat is in great shape - bright, smooth and shiny. I've read on a couple of threads that shadowing is really oxidation of the exposed gel but I don't think that's the case here. I've tried an oxidation remover (Maguir's), alcohol and mineral spirits on the blue with zero results. Now the weirdness: Yesterday late afternoon, the blue disappeared almost completely but miraculously reappeared this morning. Is this just adhesive residue or something else? The photo shows it pretty well. Thanks.
jor
09 LazyDaze
9 REPLIES 9

joraz
Explorer
Explorer
I'll be sure to post when I get this figured out. Thanks.
jor
09 LazyDaze

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
Let us know how you make out, many of us have older MH's with peeling decals and have a ghost image when the decal is peeled off. However I have not seen any color left behind when the decals were removed.

joraz
Explorer
Explorer
I would try first wiping the blue area with acetone to see if any color comes off on a white rag.

Tried the acetone with no color on the rag. Now I'll have to get up the courage to try the 1000 grit. Thanks for the tip. Interesting note: In the early morning before the sun is really out, the blue color disappears. Reminds me of a cement swimming pool. The plaster on the pool is usually a bright white and only appears blue once the water is added.
jor
09 LazyDaze

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
The gel coat on your front cap is relatively thick compared to the sidewalls. I would try first wiping the blue area with acetone to see if any color comes off on a white rag. If solvent does not remove it I would try a 1000 grit sand paper and then use a polishing compound with an electric buffer. Just be careful not to apply too much pressure and burn through to the fabric with the buffer. I just got through doing this to remove stains in the gel coat of a FG boat hull and the 1000 grit paper worked good. The paper and polishing compound can be bought at HF, you can also buy it at a Marine store for twice the cost.

ed6713
Explorer
Explorer
A neighbor is an electrician. He bought a U-Haul truck at an auction. He has tried and tried to hide the U-Haul name including paint! The old name just keeps telegraphing through no matter what.
Much like hiding smoke damage in a house. Tough to do unless you use a product specifically made for that.

The old decals might telegraph through no matter what.

Best of luck. If you come up with a solution, I'll pass it on.
🙂

joraz
Explorer
Explorer
Well, that sounds like a pretty good way to go. I'll give it a try. Still can't figure out how they disappeared yesterday though. Maybe a trick of the eye! Thanks.
jor

Just tried some Turle Wax Rubbing Compound. No dice.
09 LazyDaze

rgatijnet1
Explorer III
Explorer III
When the decals are applied, they use what is known as an application fluid, such as Sure Glide and some other brands. This fluid acts as an activator for the vinyl decal adhesive and also allows the decal to be positioned in the fluid until it is squeegeed out and all bubbles are removed. I am sure that the discoloration is caused by the adhesive and application fluid reacting with the gel coat. It may take a more aggressive rubbing compound to remove all of the discoloration. Try it first in a small area that is not too noticeable and see if rubbing compound is necessary. Do it by hand and keep checking the results to see if this takes care of the shadows without going too deep into the gel coated surface. After the rubbing compound, polishing compound can bring the shine back.

joraz
Explorer
Explorer
Have you tried a polishing compound?

Kinda. The Maguirs is abrasive and designed to shine up oxidized fiberglass.
jor
09 LazyDaze

rgatijnet1
Explorer III
Explorer III
Have you tried a polishing compound? Rubbing compound may be too abrasive but polishing compound should do fine especially if used by hand.