Drivers side Window lift motor

[k123911]

Has anyone replaced their drivers door window lift motor? Mine went out and after much searching (literally went to Autozone and they let me dig through all the boxes to find the right gear and mounting hole configuration) I replaced the motor. Really not much too it except that the motor won't start. I have voltage at the terminals (goes negative when I push the switch to the down side and goes positive when I toggle it to up and stop when at center). I thought well maybe it needs a ground (even though it doesn't because I have current) so I went ahead and remounted everything except the door panel. Still nothing. Anyone have any ideas what could be happening?
Thanks,
Troy
2006 Coachman Aurora 3480DS
F53 Ford V10

[Strabo]

Yup, the switch.

[k123911]

Well here's the end result - it was the switch. Grrrrrrr and I have already installed the new motor.

[k123911]

Well this has been a lesson in patience...
Taking everyone's advice I disconnected the motor and cut into my wires. Using a battery charger at 10 amps I simply applied power; remarkably nothing happened so I was thinking I had a bad motor. I decided at that point to check one last thing - the wiring harness that plugged into the motor harness (its different than the stock harness from the coach so you have to splice them together). Since the motor came with numerous other adaptors I used a different one - voila!, the motor started spinning. First problem solved. Next I went ahead and spliced the coach wires with the second harness together and hit the switch. The motor barely moved (but it did move). Now I'm thinking "okay, I've got voltage on my meter but what is the amperage"; long story short the switch is not pushing enough consistent amperage to make the motor activate (0.1 and 0.2 amps only when 10 should be flowing).
Here's where I am at now:
1. the realization that you probably didn't need a new motor but bought one anyway - $40
2. the cost of a new switch - $5 on Amazon
3. the realization that voltage does not equate to amperage - priceless
For those that maybe someday will need this information, here's what I have purchased (thus far):
-Dorman 742-264 Window Lift Motor from Autozone (this fit my Muncy 18-05 regulator gear but yours will most likely be different)
-Power Window Rocker Switch 5 Wire Reverse Polarity Control from Amazon (size does matter with this one - check it closely)

The switch should be here next week so I'll be back to post the end result.
Thanks everyone.

[dougrainer]

The motor only has 2 wires and needs no ground. The 2 wires will have reversed polarity from the dash switch. So, you need to check the voltage at the 2 motor wires. When you push to open you should have pos and neg on the set of wires. When you push to close the voltage polarity will be reversed at those wires. If you have this, then the motor is bad. If not, your switch is wired wrong or there is a problem with the 2 wires going to the motor. Doug

[georgelesley]

Does the motor work when not installed but hooked directly to a battery? If so maybe the motor gears or linkage is jammed when installed. Maybe motor has been sitting so long it needs a turn to start the first time, best done when not mounted, just a few possibilities since you seem to have voltage going to it.

[rgatijnet1]

Have you tried putting voltage directly to the motor itself, instead of through the switches? This would eliminate any wiring, fuse, or switch issues.