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EPDM roof

Paul_Jay
Explorer
Explorer
Hi everyone.
1990 Chevy Tioga class C (24')
I bought it with the understanding it needed a roof, and boy does it.
The membrane is threadbare, the decking is buckling in places, there is a large soft spot by the rooftop A/C, and recently, after a highway run, a spot in the membrane has torn off and waves proudly in the wind.

My Mom is under the impression it can be patched. I know better.
I'm planning on a full strip, replace rotted decking (probably some structure) and then a new EPDM membrane.

I am a third rate tinkerer on things mechanical, but a 25 years carpenter. No part of a residential house scares me, so I feel confident (mostly). I have the tools.

However, I am asking for opinions from those more experienced. I am looking at Dicor membranes and their installation kit with glue, lap sealant and mastic.

Is this a quality product? Am I barking up the right tree? I don't see how this can be patched. Is there a better product? Where is a source for a new roof A/C gasket?
My mom is coming for this in October and autumn is breathing down my neck here in NY, I need to move.

If it goes to Tn. w/o being repaired I believe it is the death knell for a nice rig. She will not (cannot) pay retail for it to be repaired. She is a professional at procrastination.

I am going to try (again) to load some pics, because they are vital for your opinions.

Wish me luck.
Paul
20 REPLIES 20

Paul_Jay
Explorer
Explorer
Nah, link didn't work.
A search titled
TPOvinyl roofs vs. epdm. On this site Should bring it up for anyone interested.

Paul_Jay
Explorer
Explorer
I think I'd read about the differences on a site comparing commercial applications. Obviously a different animal. The TPO required the use of heat to weld the seams I think. Or maybe that was during manufacturing. Some one will know.
It was more the relatively short amount of time it's been in service, coupled with the idea they keep redesigning it to improve the previous shortcomings, that swayed me to the EPDM.
THis topic has come up here before: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25340316/srt/pa/pging/1/page/3.cfm

Either way I'm sure I'll get a decent amount of life from the EPDM, and the price seemed less too.

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
Mich F wrote:
Bumpyroad wrote:
Mich F wrote:

TPO and EPDM should be pretty much the same for installation.



I thought that whereas EPDM can stretch/bend/etc. TPO cannot. I know years back I was chatting with a rep from a CA mfr. and he said that ironically on their more intricate units they had to use EPDM, not TPO, for this reason, compound curves.
bumpy


I always thought the installation with a one piece, no seam TPO roof was similar to a EPDM roof. I definitely could be wrong. My Itasca 31K has a TPO roof and it goes over the 90ยฐ roof to wall joint without any issues. My son has been putting on RV roofs for years, I'll ask him. ๐Ÿ˜‰


he was referring to double compound curves, a rounded corner perhaps, not simple bends. epdm will stretch, TPO won't, or won't as much.
bumpy

Mich_F
Explorer
Explorer
Bumpyroad wrote:
Mich F wrote:

TPO and EPDM should be pretty much the same for installation.



I thought that whereas EPDM can stretch/bend/etc. TPO cannot. I know years back I was chatting with a rep from a CA mfr. and he said that ironically on their more intricate units they had to use EPDM, not TPO, for this reason, compound curves.
bumpy


I always thought the installation with a one piece, no seam TPO roof was similar to a EPDM roof. I definitely could be wrong. My Itasca 31K has a TPO roof and it goes over the 90ยฐ roof to wall joint without any issues. My son has been putting on RV roofs for years, I'll ask him. ๐Ÿ˜‰
2014 Itasca Spirit 31K Class C
2016 Mazda CX5 on Acme tow dolly- 4 trips ~ 5,800 mi
Now 2017 RWD F150 with a drive shaft disconnect

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
Mich F wrote:

TPO and EPDM should be pretty much the same for installation.



I thought that whereas EPDM can stretch/bend/etc. TPO cannot. I know years back I was chatting with a rep from a CA mfr. and he said that ironically on their more intricate units they had to use EPDM, not TPO, for this reason, compound curves.
bumpy

Mich_F
Explorer
Explorer
Paul Jay wrote:
mich, that link didn't work.
I don't know how to work fiberglass. Not so sure I want a learning curve here, now.
TPO seems to require greater skill. I appreciate all the advice, but I think I've settled on the Dicor Brite ply system. @1.24 SF it seems reasonable and easy(ish?) to work with.

I agree the whole roof need torn off. Thanks for the ammo to conVince me Madre. I wish she could trust my opinion more. But what can u do? I'll always be just her baby.
I'll start a new thread when it comes time for the deed. I'll try and document it w pictures for posterity.
Thanks everyone.


The link is working for me. TPO and EPDM should be pretty much the same for installation.
2014 Itasca Spirit 31K Class C
2016 Mazda CX5 on Acme tow dolly- 4 trips ~ 5,800 mi
Now 2017 RWD F150 with a drive shaft disconnect

Paul_Jay
Explorer
Explorer
mich, that link didn't work.
I don't know how to work fiberglass. Not so sure I want a learning curve here, now.
TPO seems to require greater skill. I appreciate all the advice, but I think I've settled on the Dicor Brite ply system. @1.24 SF it seems reasonable and easy(ish?) to work with.

I agree the whole roof need torn off. Thanks for the ammo to conVince me Madre. I wish she could trust my opinion more. But what can u do? I'll always be just her baby.
I'll start a new thread when it comes time for the deed. I'll try and document it w pictures for posterity.
Thanks everyone.

Mich_F
Explorer
Explorer
Mocoondo wrote:
That whole roof needs replaced. It's shot.


X 2 -it's way past any patching/coating to fix that.
Since you're a carpenter, you shouldn't have too much of a problem replacing that whole roof with something like this or a TPO, or even fiberglass roof.
That stuff is very heavy, therefor expensive to ship. You might be better off finding a local RV repair shop, or RV supply company where you could buy the stuff and maybe come out cheaper than paying for shipping.
2014 Itasca Spirit 31K Class C
2016 Mazda CX5 on Acme tow dolly- 4 trips ~ 5,800 mi
Now 2017 RWD F150 with a drive shaft disconnect

Mocoondo
Explorer II
Explorer II
That whole roof needs replaced. It's shot.

Paul_Jay
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks Eddie. I think it's wood rAfters, based on the wood fibers embedded in the screw threads when I ripped one out of the rot. I was thinking about putting a gentle radius on rafters before decking. You're right it is flat. Probably from rot/fatigue now. I might PM you for details about your elevation fix when I get to it.

So I spoke to me Mama and she wants me to "patch" it and she will store w Tarp on it until she's more flush. I found the materials for about $500, I'm doing the work for nothing.

I can't imagine it ever being any cheaper than that. Retail is what, $3000? Without all the structural damage. I might have to buy these materials myself to effect a repair.

What say the masses?
Can this rotted, sagging roof be "patched". I can easily jam my heel through the deck if I want to.

Help me convince her to do the right thing.

Cousin_Eddie93
Explorer
Explorer
Hopefully yours is aluminum framed like mine is, that's the only reason why it didn't completely collapse, haha those AC units are up to 200lb. The contact cement has no reaction with the EPDM rubber and you can buy Liquid Rubber in 1 and 5 gallon cans in white as well. You could use a filler for your seams but I'm always weary of cracking, hence the eternabond tape, it you go with the liner that would of course eliminate that issue.
From what I see in your pics, the repair is definitely worth doing. Another tip as well, I can't tell from the pics but often times with these older C's the weight of the AC unit will tend to sag your roof a bit especially after water damage, but even from just plain old metal fatigue if you have aluminum rafters. Other than having a cambered roof; which yours does not appear to have you can fix by elevating it with a sheet of 7/8's OSB or whatever you prefer. The AC wire harness should have plenty of wiggle room as your only adding an additional inch to elevate the unit above the water line should your nice new roof sag and pool once complete otherwise, been there done that. I used a full sheet of OSB and it worked fine. Sure it adds weight to rig but only 80lbs or so. Well worth it for a five year investment. Mines a 30' 1993 and my roof has done great since then and will last another five years no problem.

Paul_Jay
Explorer
Explorer
Another

Paul_Jay
Explorer
Explorer
Here is what I'm dealing with.
The blue chalk is the areas of decking that are shot. I can feel the rafters are still solid, but hope springs eternal.

Bumpyroad
Explorer
Explorer
yes, rhino linings, or at least the other one, is available in colors other than black.
bumpy