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How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

whiteknight001
Explorer II
Explorer II
I'm new here, and curious.

How many of us in Class C own Dodge B300 incomplete
cab/chassis based RV's? I know two others- Steve aka
Ripsaw, with a 1977 Brougham, and Leroy aka 1978_Dodge
_Delta who owns a 440V8 powered sharp looking 1978
Delta RV. I would like to ask, and offer, help, idea
swapping and comparing notes on our particular RV's
which are based on the Dodge B300 van chassis.

Yeah, I know. These are low tech, podgy old RV's that
would be considered "entry level" for folks like me,
but I have a deep and abiding respect for the quality
of these old "monsters of the open road". And anyone
wanting to pick brains, joke about, share notes or just
brag about our old A- Dodge-io's are certainly welcome
to PM or email me. Between all of us we can form a real
good support group, and help each other with problems
we know we'll encounter with an older vehicle.

Sure. I'd love a new RV. But I'd rather have an older
one already paid for, and a lotta great memories. Call
me frugal, an old hippie, or whatever you will. I'm proud
of my old land yacht.

Mopar Madness Manifest in the flesh,

Mark aka White Knight

P.S. Mine's a '72. Is there an older one out there someone's
motorvating in? Maybe even a Travco? W/K
1972 Mobile Traveler 20' Dodge B300 Class C
"The Kobayashi Maru" Trans- Prarie Land Craft
"Requiescat in pace et in amore..."
8,369 REPLIES 8,369

Griff_in_Fairba
Explorer
Explorer
toedtoes wrote:
Unlike Daisy, this one will need to be smogged in California.

I've brought several old trucks back up to passing IM (smog) tests, mostly undoing what previous owners had done or doing neglected maintenance. In Alaska, vehicles only had to pass IM if you're going to use them in the winter, otherwise you can get a seasonal sticker that is good for summer use only.

The local IM office is required by law to have and provide all the detailed information needed to pass IM, consisting primarily of copies of pages from the manufacturers' repair manuals that are expensive and often only provided to dealerships.

These pages are provide free of charge and are specific to each and every year, make, model, engine, and so forth. (Meaning you don't have to sort through information to determine what applies to your vehicle.) The information the IM office is required to provide includes all applicable OEM part numbers, which make it easy to find the correct parts by using parts stores' cross-reference searches.

They look up and provide the information based on your VIN, so it is specific to your vehicle. However, in the case of motorhomes, you need the chassis VIN if it differed from the registration VIN. (Finding correct parts for your motorhome is the main reason why I harp on determining the chassis VIN.)

Passing IM was a bit of a hassle but I miss the local IM office since it closed when the Fairbanks North Star borough opted out of the IM program. It was a very handy source of the detailed information I needed to keep vehicles tuned up and running in top condition. Now, I have to contact the Anchorage office, where the program is still in effect. Unfortunately, the extent of their computer "expertise" is limited to knowing which buttons to push so I'm forced to having a friend pick up and mail the copies whenever I need them.

Assuming the California program is run the same way as Alaska's program, you should be able to get all the information you need to pass the tests from the government office(s).
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A

toedtoes
Explorer III
Explorer III
Unlike Daisy, this one will need to be smogged in California.
1975 American Clipper RV with Dodge 360 (photo in profile)
1998 American Clipper Fold n Roll Folding Trailer
Both born in Morgan Hill, CA to Irv Perch (Daddy of the Aristocrat trailers)

Ballenxj
Explorer II
Explorer II
Mykedynamics wrote:

A 1976 dodge establishment with a 440..running well, shifting well, and most internals and waste tanks functioning..I got him down to $400 + $300 back reg...definitely needs a couple new 16.5 tires :(.. Rv roof could use a resealing

Is this a solid deal or should I keep searching? Any and all thoughts appreciated.. Is the 440 worth it or would gas be incredibly terrible?

I'd say it depends. Is it leaking in the cabover bunk area? If yes, there is probably more structural damage than meets the eye. I think this would be a deal breaker for a lot of folks. Are you handy at doing those types of repairs?
On the other hand, how much would you pay for a good running 440 engine with 727 trans?
The other amenities could just be icing on the cake. ๐Ÿ˜‰
I'm sure more knowledgeable folks will be by to chime in on this.
Downsizing ๐Ÿ™‚

Leeann
Explorer
Explorer
I don't get any worse mileage with my 440 than with my previous 360.

Resealing is one thing, water damage and rot are quite another. If just resealing, you're probably fine.

Sounds good to me. Mine cost me $400, too.
'73 Concord 20' Class A w/Dodge 440 - see profile for photo

Mykedynamics
Explorer
Explorer
Hey everyone! Dazy.. My 19ft lazy daze...bought for $150, is still running strong after 12 states and a year on the road!

My question is not for her but another rv I have found. A 1976 dodge establishment with a 440..running well, shifting well, and most internals and waste tanks functioning..I got him down to $400 + $300 back reg...definitely needs a couple new 16.5 tires :(.. Rv roof could use a resealing

Is this a solid deal or should I keep searching? Any and all thoughts appreciated.. Is the 440 worth it or would gas be incredibly terrible?

Thanks everyone!

Griff_in_Fairba
Explorer
Explorer
My daughter has a 1989 Dodge B1500 van and I haven't heard of or noticed a similar problem with that vehicle. (Although, she may have diagnosed and fixed the problem herself, if it occurred.)

Decades ago, I help a friend install a "new" manual transmission. (He couldn't find the correct shift rods so I wound up fabricating one, using two rods with the correct ends.) In the process, I loosely bolted the u-joint and driveshaft to the rear axle to keep the driveshaft end off the floor. I specifically told him to reinstall the u-joint, index the driveshaft, and tighten the strap bolts.

A few days later, he complained of shaking when he got up to speed. I asked if he'd reinstalled the u-joint and driveshaft and he said, "Oh, yeah, I forgot to do that." (I think the people in the next town saw me rolling my eyes. Also, he's lucky the driveshaft didn't fall out of the car.)

Even longer ago, a friend stole the wheel weights off his dad's truck to melt down and cast into fishing sinkers. His dad emphatically mentioned it would have been cheaper to buy him sinkers, compared to having to re-balance four tires.

I haven't run into similar problems due to front-end problems but know people who have. (One person described it as having problems keeping his truck in one lane. Another was pulled over as a suspected drunk driver.) I regularly inspect and perform maintenance on my front-end components, as well as having them aligned, to avoid having to buy new tires more often than absolutely necessary.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A

Ballenxj
Explorer II
Explorer II
Haha Griff, I note we posted at exactly the same time. I suppose the drive shaft is another possibility. Whenever I had that type of trouble it was almost always tire related.
Please note my use of "almost" as a disclaimer.
Downsizing ๐Ÿ™‚

Griff_in_Fairba
Explorer
Explorer
goreds2 wrote:
I have been loving this thread going on 7 years now when I had my 1975 Class C. I now have (for 5 years) a 1989 Dodge XPLORER RV Class B with 318 engine. Today, I took it out on the open highway and at about 55 MPH it was shaking. I know it can be a number of things but just wondering if any owners of late 80's Dodges have experienced this. Thanks,

Note that I checked the tire pressure and they are read the same. (50-PSI)

U-joints and/or driveshaft is the first thing I'd check, especially if anyone's worked on or messed with these. U-joints going bad will cause shaking, barely noticeable at slow speeds and getting worse as speed increases. Usually, a bad u-joint results in a noticeable "clunk" sound when you shift into gear, especially if you're holding the brakes when shifting out of drive/neutral.

An incorrectly (off-center) installed u-joint will do the same thing, although without the clunking noise.

An out-of-balance, mis-indexed, or damaged driveshaft will cause similar effects, often accompanied by a humming/buzzing noise at speed.

Another strong possibility is an out-of-balance tire, due to a wheel weight being knocked or thrown off the rim.

Final likely possibility is wheel bearing(s) going bad or misaligned front end.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A

Ballenxj
Explorer II
Explorer II
goreds2 wrote:

Today, I took it out on the open highway and at about 55 MPH it was shaking.

The very first place I would look is wheel balance. The wheel and tire are a very large rotating mass, and if not balanced right can cause shaking at specific speeds. Usually highway speeds. The other possible cause to look at is tire separation, or being out of round. Once you have eliminated those two possible causes, look at suspension and shocks.
Good luck, and I hope it's an easy fix. ๐Ÿ™‚
Downsizing ๐Ÿ™‚

goreds2
Explorer
Explorer
I have been loving this thread going on 7 years now when I had my 1975 Class C. I now have (for 5 years) a 1989 Dodge XPLORER RV Class B with 318 engine. Today, I took it out on the open highway and at about 55 MPH it was shaking. I know it can be a number of things but just wondering if any owners of late 80's Dodges have experienced this. Thanks,

Note that I checked the tire pressure and they are read the same. (50-PSI)
See Picture In My Profile
I have a 1989 Dodge XPLORER RV Class B - Purchased 10/15/10 IN CASH
Fiance' purchased a Class C 2002 Dynamax Carri-go on 5/1/15 IN CASH
We've got the best of both worlds

Soon2BNewbie
Explorer
Explorer
I think I just might have my Mom read some of your posts. Had you not given permission, it never even crossed my mind til you said it. I'm a high school dropout myself. Left midday Thurs, started working Monday as a 4th generation Plumber. Got my GED, & all I had to do was take the plumbing test because I was grandfathered in, but I didn't want spend my life getting "no heat" calls & committing to either rebuilding some poor old lady's boiler who was my dad's dad's customer, knowing that 1, we weren't leaving til it was fixed...or at least rigged, or the new boiler was installed, only to learn...it wasn't the boiler that was the only problem. 2, no matter how ticked off & how many tools flew & cursing went on, I'd always think to myself, "That's my cue! And he could've just ASKED me, or TOLD me he can't fit his hand/arm/body/whatever in there" No tools had to be injured in the rebuilding of this boiler. LOL. Sometimes his hands were too big to catch the threads.

Like I said before, I became a Massage Therapist...I have a very acute sense of touch. I can back-thread anything & feel the drop when I hit thread one. Though I only wore gloves to keep my hands warm, I still never really developed callouses. Even though I started working at a stable at 10 every weekend so I could ride for free & take out "hackers" (Newbies) on trail rides. Oh I got plenty of blisters from the shovels, brooms, wheelbarrows, the reins, the hay bales, one in each hand or you'd fall over (found out recently those bales were 40 lbs apiece...I was 10!!! Holy $#!+!!!) & some of those saddles? Getting Western saddles up to the height of some of those horses. I'm 5'1" now! & this was in Philly. Round here nobody helps you with ANYTHING. You're on your own.
Anyway back to callouses, I'd get blisters, plenty, but they always popped & the skin got ripped off the following weekend. Whereas my father had thick callouses & couldn't even get a diabetic lancet test through his fingers. Haha! True story.
Yeah, your daughter will smarten up. If you just smile & nod, she'll figure it out on her own. Like playing it like the ball's in her court, you got it already.

I am def gonna hit the library. Right now I'm shopping around for the cheapest 1-way, in case all goes well car rental place. Used to be, there was like 1 or 2, now there's half-a-zillion. I would imagine it's gonna take the better part of the rest of the night choosing one closeby that will be good on gas & all that fun stuff. So I hope to get to the library tomorrow.

I really cannot thank you enough for your help, experience & wisdom in the world of all things RV, as Imay have camped, but I worry I may end up having moments like Eddie from National Lampoons Christmas Vacation "Merry Christmas! $#!++er Was full!" or like Robin Williams in RV. THAT is my biggest fear. I'm going to buy like an Idiot's guide to RVing or something. I've seen some books for beginners linked from here that look promising.

The dogs are looking at me like they are trying to burn holes in my head. I usually feed them @ 4, now it's 4:30. I'm off to feed the monsters so they turn back into our loveable dogs again, haha.

Soon2BNewbie
Explorer
Explorer
Hahaha, Griff, I also learned vehicle repair & maintenance in my teens. Started riding motorcycles when I was 14 & got my bike license before my car license. I was taught to drive a manual, provided I would replace the clutch kit & the exhaust system (it just so happened to need to be replaced, too). It was a little Chevy S10 & I was 16. We didn't have a lift, so we drove the front end up those little ramps they have & used 2
two 2-ton hydraulic jacks. We dropped the little trans onto our chests & had to shimmy out from the truck, trying not to drink too much residual trans fluid, LOL! That was my father for ya'.
I'm 34. When I was in my early 20s, I moved to FL, my Mom called me every day. I waitressed, tended bar & went to Massage Therapy school. Got engaged. Got a job at the Ritz-Carlton, Naples...the Ritz that aaallll the other Ritz employees around the world are jealous of. My fiancรฉ joined the Army: Airborne Infantry...because he couldn't hold a regular job. I xrove back & forth from Southwest FL to Ft Benning & then from FL to Ft Bragg near Fayetteville, NC every weekend (bout 12 hr drive 1 way) until he all but threatened to cheat on me if I didn't move up there (which he probably already had). See, he was living in the barracks. If I moved there, they would put him in off-post housing, because on-post housing was full...and he'd get to ride my bike again. I had a brand new 04 GSXR750. So, in my naivety, I left the job of a lifetime, the people who had become my family, the 20 minute-away beach (from home) my job was ON the beach, a dog beach that my dog Shadow had made friends at, a climate to die for, Publix subs, I could go on forever. I lasted a year in North Cackalacki. We lived out in the sticks in Raeford. I worked 5 jobs because nothing was full-time. I didn't know how I'd handle the divorce, so I went back up north to Mom's. That was 05. I've moved out a few times, but you can't make money here. Bike got repoed, SUV too. Bought a car, had a freak seizure from some medicine Drs should've known not to combine, totalled that SUV. Buoght an old Buick car, got run off the road into this poor guy's pristine quad cab 4x4 chevy pick-up. So, here I am...34 years old trying to leave home again, LOL! It's a good thing Mom & I get along. But I've always been more of the nomad type & she likes the safety of putting down roots & we just can't seem to get on the same page with that. She worries. I'll cross that bridge when I get there. ๐Ÿ™‚

Griff_in_Fairba
Explorer
Explorer
Meghan (Soon2BNewbie) -

I keep going back over this discussion and thinking of things I should have added.

Have your mother read the stuff I've posted recently. Then, tell her that, 40 some years ago, my mother felt the same way about my motor vehicle adventures as your mother feels about what you're considering.

On the other hand, your mother has some very valid concerns and you should take them into consideration. (Same as my situation, way back when ... sometimes I listened, sometimes I didn't, and was 50/50 on learning the hard way or being successful.)

When they were in their teens, I made my son and daughter learn motor vehicle maintenance and repair. It wasn't just the simple stuff like oil changes and engine tune-ups. I made them do more complex things, like brake jobs, changing alternators, and helping me swap engines.

I really didn't care if they ever did any of these things again. I just wanted them to know enough to avoid getting screwed by less-than-reputable repair shops.

When my daughter went into the Army, she became the go-to person for motor vehicle advice and guidance. Simply put, she knew more about motor vehicles than most of her fellow soldiers. (She has stories to tell about some of the stupid things she saw.)

I've already mentioned her '59 Plymouth Savoy resto-mod project. I don't necessarily agree with her plans to use a 383 cu. in. big block in it but it's her project so I try to keep my mouth shut. The Savoy has a lightweight body and chassis and the 383 has enough power to turn it into one helluva rocket.

(Keeping my mouth shut is made a lot easier by the fact we're currently mad at each other and not talking.)

Her efforts on that project are much more difficult because she's 100% disabled and raising two kids. (Three if you count her recently acquired third husband.)

My son didn't pay much attention to those lessons and he kind of regrets it now that he's older. He now has to go to his sister, or me when he build up the nerve. He knows I know exactly why the engine in his wife's Subaru blew up and realizes he's partially responsible. They both managed to "step in it" big time, which is why I withdrew my offer to help them find a replacement engine and install it. (He's still married to his first wife so he has, in many respects, been reasonably successful.)
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A

Griff_in_Fairba
Explorer
Explorer
Soon2BNewbie wrote:
Thanks Griff, it's nice to know someone who knows his $#/รท. You're like a walking encyclopedia. Are you a mechanic, or do you "just play one on the internet", LOL?

You're welcome, that's what we're here for.

The best way to describe me is a "shade-tree" mechanic who doesn't even have a shade tree. My mechanic'ing started in grade school, when I successfully put together several lawn mower engines my dad had tried to fix. In each case, he gave up and threw all the parts in a box with his previous attempts at repair. (He was a very successful administrator, with natural leadership abilities, but couldn't put together a nut and bolt without cross-threading them ... his plumbing "fixes" were a wonder to behold.) For me, the box of parts were like a bunch of 3D jigsaw puzzles.

My experience has been gained over roughly five decades consisting of lots of mistakes, lessons learned the hard way, advice and help from older people, damaged tools, and blown up engines.

It helps that I grew up without TV, which caused me to develop an addiction to reading. That, combined with an almost limitless curiosity, lead to me being largely self-taught in a wide range of areas.

(Yes, I do have a fairly high IQ, although I was never allowed to see the result of the IQ tests I took. Eventually, I figured out that IQ scores are relatively meaningless and that people of average intelligence are often more productive than the "smart" ones.)

The avatar in my signature block is a fairly good reflection on my approach to life. It's even funnier when you find out that every time I pick up a welding torch everybody around me grabs a fire extinguisher. (I would say, "**** happens," but in the military one of my mottoes was, "I make **** happen," complete with a coffee cup.)

In real life, I'm a retired USAF Master Sergeant and a disabled veteran, married 38 years (give or take a few months) to a female Vietnam-Era USAF veteran.

Professionally, I'm a semi-retired systems analyst and software engineer, with roughly 48 years training and experience spread across the computer industry.

The best way sum up my life so far is to say, "****!! I had fun getting here."

(I also have fun screwing with this forum's nanny routines ... which is why you sometimes see censorship asterisks in my posts.

As for manuals, start with a Chiltons or Haynes that includes information on the 1976 Dodge B300 1-ton van. The motorhome you're considering is a Class C, based on the cut-away van chassis, which is sometimes called an incomplete chassis. The actual model is probably MB300, with an engine, drivetrain, suspension, cab, and so forth that is, for the most part, identical to the B300. (The CB300 is the commercial version of the MB300, used to by secondary manufacturers to build box vans.)

BTW - Leeann and I both have Class A motorhomes, built on bare bones chassis with everything, including the cab, built by the secondary manufacturer. (The older "eye-brow" Winnebagoes are the most familiar Class A motorhomes.) Class A motorhomes add a "whole 'nother" bit of "entertainment" when it comes to figuring out and working on them. (The fact that most of them were built on medium duty truck chassis makes it a lot harder to find parts and information.)

Chiltons and Haynes manuals are now owned and printed by the same company. As someone recently pointed out in this thread, recent versions of both manuals are almost worthless but are a reasonable starting point for you. What you really want is a decades-old used copy of either or both.

The best thing to have is a Motor manual but those tend to be expensive and hard to come by. (I snatch up any inexpensive used Motor manuals I run across just because I like collecting reference material, even when it doesn't apply to anything I own.) Most better municipal libraries have Motor manuals in their reference section so you can go there to look up more detailed information.

OEM manuals are very hard to find and carefully guarded by those who have them. (The parts manager at the local Dodge dealer is jealous of the condition of the OEM parts manual I have, compared to the copy he has.)

I'm kinda PO'ed at my daughter because what will eventually be her third ex-husband left a large stack of my reference material out in the rain, including a large collection of CarQuest catalogs I rescued from the dumpster, most of which applied to our motorhomes. (She just married him but my money's on her eventually getting rid of him too.)

In addition to manuals on the chassis, drivetrain, and cab, you'll need manuals on the refrigerator, furnace, range, hot water heater, and whatever other appliances and equipment you have. These are all separate manuals and Leeann is very good at helping you find this kind of information.

It's very unlikely, as you've already found out, that you will find much information on the Lindy coach itself. For the most part, you'll have ferret out information on your own or, more likely, rely on this group to help you stumble your way through things.

No, to the best of my knowledge, there is no single manual that covers everything on one particular motorhome. Finding all the bits and pieces of information is part of the frustration/adventure in owning an older motorhome. (Whether it's frustration or adventure depends on your attitude, approach, and emotions at any given moment.)

BTW - With the possible exception of very expensive models, even newer recreational vehicles do not have enough insulation for anything more than three season use. Just about the only way to get a recreation vehicle (including motorhomes, travel trailers, and pickup campers) with enough insulation for true four season use is to build it yourself, especially when it comes to northern climates. My current project will have walls with at least R15 insulation, which should allow me to use it down to -30 degrees without too much discomfort and heating fuel. (I have a few other wrinkles that will help it serve as comfortable subzero shelter.)
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A

Griff_in_Fairba
Explorer
Explorer
Meghan (Soon2BNewbie) -

To continue from my previous post ...

The fact the motorhome you're considering has a 360 engine is not a mark against it. There's no reason to be wary of the 360 and having that engine may very well be a reason to prefer that motorhome over other possibilities.

The fact there's little mention of the 360 engine in this thread may be due to few people having any problems with their 360 engines. People tend to sound off when they're having problems or are dissatisfied. Alternatively, the lack of mention may be due to more people having big block engines. So, it's a guessing game as whether the lack of mention is due to the engine's reliability or relatively few numbers among this crowd.

I think it was Leeann who said people tend to be satisfied with their engines, regardless of whether they have small blocks or big blocks, as long as they do the job.

I've said it before and will repeat my opinion: Most motorhomes are unnecessarily overpowered with big block engines. Leeann is the only person I know who has a reasonable justification for having a big block engine. In her case, the motorhome is routinely used to tow a large, heavy trailer to carry all the stuff needed to support her husband's boat racing endeavors.

While there's been a long history of people trying to create motorhomes, the commercial production of motorhomes began in the late '50s. (The exact date depends on which book you read and people's definition of commercial production.)

These early production motorhomes were built on Dodge chassis equipped with the 225 cu. in. slant-six engines. Because of its design, the slant-six had ample torque and power and the motorhomes with them had good acceleration and were capable of tackling most passes in mountainous areas. Unfortunately, the slant-six had limited top-end, which generally prevented the motorhomes from getting much over 50 mph.

This is probably the start of the general impression that motorhomes are slow, lumbering, traffic-impeding obstacles, an impression that's perpetuated by rubber-necking tourists.

Interestingly, motorhome manufacturers abandoned the slant-six in favor of V8 engines with more top-end around the same time as the oil embargo and the nationwide 55 mph speed limit. (Around the same time, I traded my '49 International Metro, which couldn't go over 65 mph without blowing up the engine, for my go-fast '66 Dodge Polara, which was capable of 120+ mph speeds.)

The 1976-era 360 was the largest of the LA small block family, that consisted of the 273, 318, 340, and 360 engines. You may have noted my signature block lists a 1969/1970 (split year) M300 Class A Explorer with a 318 engine. You may also have noted I am swapping that engine (and A727 transmission) into my 1973 RM350 chassis, which originally had a 440 engine. (The engine and transmission were missing when that chassis was given to me.)

Elsewhere in this thread, I've mentioned the M300's performance, with particular reference to Turnagain Pass. The following picture gives you some idea as what that pass is like, although it's evident to me that they've made improvements to reduce some of the steeper grades in the two decades since I last travelled it.



Likewise, I've made mention of my '77 B200 van, which also had a 318 engine. The van had 2.8 miles on the odometer when I bought and was still on the "rolling parking lot" (i.e., automobile transportation semi-trailer) when I first saw it. I had to wait several hours, with a firm grip on the keys to the '75 AMC Gremlin I was trading in, while the dealer prep'd it.

That van was still running when I traded it off after 8-1/2 years and 170,000+ miles of hard use. (It lead me to be pulled over for going the speed limit. The trooper explained, "This is the slowest I've ever seen this van go and wanted to make sure it wasn't stolen.")

BTW - The Dodge 3.9 liter V6 is based on the LA small block engines. It is essentially a 318 minus two cylinders and some of the parts (such as pistons, connecting rods, and water pumps) are interchangeable between the 3.9L V6 and the 318 V8.

Based on my experience, I have significant appreciation for the 318 LA small block engine. It is a strong, durable engine, which is why I chose it for my "impossible" project of building a custom motorhome, with one of the project goals being 20+ mpg out of a Class A motorhome. (My M300 got 15-16 mpg after I tweaked the engine ... and behaved myself.) My experience with the 318 is also the primary reason I sought out and obtained a 3.9L V6 for a future as-yet-to-be-determined project.

During the time I owned it, the 318 engine in my '77 B200 gave me very few problems. I replaced timing chain and gears (once), had a valve job done on the heads (once), and rebuilt the Carter BBD carburetor (multiple times).

The timing chain and gears reached their expected life span in terms of mileage, so that replacement was reasonable.

I've since learned the valve job on the heads was probably unnecessary and was likely counterproductive. I've learned there is a known problem with the stock valve stems seals in mid- to late-70s LA small blocks disintegrating prematurely. Disintegrated valve stem seals allow oil to be drawn past the valve stems into the cylinders, resulting excess oil consumption and blue tailpipe smoke. The seals can be replaced without removing the heads, provided the person doing the job knows what they're doing. Valve jobs, by themselves, tend to increase piston ring blow-by due to improved sealing between the valve heads and seats. On this basis, I cannot recommend a valve job unless you also, at a minimum, re-ring the pistons.

The multiple carburetor rebuilds were my own unwitting fault, due to excessive routine use of gas line antifreeze. The alcohol in the antifreeze was eating up the carburetor seals and gaskets, leading to lean fuel mixture due to air leaks. This is a problem you may encounter, due to the alcohol in some modern gasoline blends. Newer carburetor rebuild kits contain seals and gaskets that are much more resistant to alcohol, which should eliminate the problem following the first rebuild. (The problem may not apply to you, if the carburetor has already been rebuilt within the past decade or so.) In any case, I'd try to avoid gasoline blends that contain alcohol. (These are usually, but not always, called ethanol blend.) Also, I'd avoid, like the plague, inexpensive gas line antifreeze sold in the yellow bottles and its equivalent products. (This one case where more expensive tends to be better.)

All four of the LA small block engines are reasonably equivalent in terms of strength, durability, and reliability. I prefer the 318 but have no reason to turn my nose up at the other three. Assuming you don't expect sports car performance out of your motorhome, and don't plan to haul heavy trailers, you should be reasonably satisfied with a 360 engine.

Okay, I'm done ... let the arguments and "yeah, but ..." replies commence.
1970 Explorer Class A on a 1969 Dodge M300 chassis with 318 cu. in. (split year)
1972 Executive Class A on a Dodge M375 chassis with 413 cu. in.
1973 Explorer Class A on a Dodge RM350 (R4) chassis with 318 engine & tranny from 1970 Explorer Class A