How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

[whiteknight001]

I'm new here, and curious.

How many of us in Class C own Dodge B300 incomplete
cab/chassis based RV's? I know two others- Steve aka
Ripsaw, with a 1977 Brougham, and Leroy aka 1978_Dodge
_Delta who owns a 440V8 powered sharp looking 1978
Delta RV. I would like to ask, and offer, help, idea
swapping and comparing notes on our particular RV's
which are based on the Dodge B300 van chassis.

Yeah, I know. These are low tech, podgy old RV's that
would be considered "entry level" for folks like me,
but I have a deep and abiding respect for the quality
of these old "monsters of the open road". And anyone
wanting to pick brains, joke about, share notes or just
brag about our old A- Dodge-io's are certainly welcome
to PM or email me. Between all of us we can form a real
good support group, and help each other with problems
we know we'll encounter with an older vehicle.

Sure. I'd love a new RV. But I'd rather have an older
one already paid for, and a lotta great memories. Call
me frugal, an old hippie, or whatever you will. I'm proud
of my old land yacht.

Mopar Madness Manifest in the flesh,

Mark aka White Knight

P.S. Mine's a '72. Is there an older one out there someone's
motorvating in? Maybe even a Travco? W/K

[Mr_Mopar_]

That's good you know what engine you have, there are many parts interchangeable between the B and RB engines you have the B the RB stands for Raised block {added stroke}. Tbe water pump and housing, timng cover, oil pan and pump, heads and valve train {execpt pushrods} all interchange. the intake and valley tray are smaller on the 400.
I build a 400 engine for my 66 coronet a few years back using the 383 rods and crank since I had them {steel crank and the rods are a little lighter}. This is one of the best engines I have ever built, the 400 has the same stroke as the 383 the extra cubic inches come from the larger bore. the pistons in a STD 400 are larger than in a 440. It's a sweet combination.
A few other things to take a look at if you haven't already is the vacuum booster for the brakes... they operate off the vacuum of the engine and if totally shot and leaking can cause a lean condition. if the engine is idling smoothly you proabbly don't have an air leak but you can take a can of carb cleaner and spray around the intake and carb flange with the engine running.. if you notice an increase in RMP or any change in the engine you may have a leak. You can also with the engine running and the air cleaner off take a rag and slowly cover the top of the carb,, this should slow and choke the engine. if the engine picks up RPM you have a vacuum leak somewhere. The reason I am concerned about vacuum leaks are the 400 and 440's use a steel shim gasket for both the intake and the heads from the factory. after time they will rust, and cause leaks. my clipper had the oem head gaskets and when I was running for long periods after shutting the engine down it would boil over. this was due to the old head gaskest leaking coolant between the cylinders and water passages. The only fix for this were new gaskets and to have the heads milled.
good luck

[xchawk]

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:

xchawk wrote:

Mr.Mopar! wrote:
I would guess you have a 440 engine there. That's a good thing.
you might try and retard the timing a few degrees. check the spark plugs for correct heat range and take a good look at them that they are burning correctly, might be running a little lean as well, check the intake manifold bolts for correct tourque and the bolts on the flange of the carb and that the air cleaner is clean. other that that you may need to upgrade to a larger radiator.

Intake was tight, but carb bolts were very loose. Still checking plugs. I'll let you know after my next trip if this helped.
Thanks

[xchawk]

Griff in Fairbanks wrote:
xchawk:

Back around page 24 of this thread, you said your MH was a 1978. If so, look at the the 4th or 5th number of your serial number. (Some Dodges in that era had a single letter model identifier at the beginning of the serial number...others had two letter model identifiers, thereby pushing everything else to the right.)

A - 440-3
D - 440-1
J - 400-1
R - 413-3

My guess is you'll find an A or R...most motorhomes had the -3 engines.

BTW - The 5th or 6th digit should be a 7 or 8, for the year. (Your motorhome maybe a '78 built on a -77 chassis.) The third or fourth digit should be a K or C, which designates the GVW.

If none of the above fits, let me know and we'll try harder to figure it out.

Thanks for the information. the 5th letter in is a J and I found a universal tag on the valve cover with a punch mark through the 400-1. So I believe it is a 400. The 6th digit is a 7 so again it must be as you said a 77 chassis. Now I'm hoping that a 400 makes a good long lasting motor for a motohome. 55,000 miles and going strong, just get it to run a little cooler on the highway and all should be great.

[Mr_Mopar_]

looking at the engine from the front of the home to the right of the distributor {about 1.25 inches} cast in to the block will a flat area about 1.5 in X 2.5 just in front of the valley tray. this may be covered by A/C or brackets but if that flat spot is there it is a 440 the 400 and 383 engine's don't have that boss in that location.
btw the boss on the 440 is where informaion was stamped when the engine was built along with the stamp 440. also as Griff said on the side of the block looking from under the vehicle will be the cast in large numbers the size of the block. and the date to.

[Griff_in_Fairba]

xchawk:

Back around page 24 of this thread, you said your MH was a 1978. If so, look at the the 4th or 5th number of your serial number. (Some Dodges in that era had a single letter model identifier at the beginning of the serial number...others had two letter model identifiers, thereby pushing everything else to the right.)

A - 440-3
D - 440-1
J - 400-1
R - 413-3

My guess is you'll find an A or R...most motorhomes had the -3 engines.

BTW - The 5th or 6th digit should be a 7 or 8, for the year. (Your motorhome maybe a '78 built on a -77 chassis.) The third or fourth digit should be a K or C, which designates the GVW.

If none of the above fits, let me know and we'll try harder to figure it out.

[Griff_in_Fairba]

xchawk wrote:

Mr.Mopar! wrote:
I would guess you have a 440 engine there. That's a good thing.
you might try and retard the timing a few degrees. check the spark plugs for correct heat range and take a good look at them that they are burning correctly, might be running a little lean as well, check the intake manifold bolts for correct tourque and the bolts on the flange of the carb and that the air cleaner is clean. other that that you may need to upgrade to a larger radiator.

So it's a 440 and not a 400? the parts store keeps saying 400 so is there a difference? The Air cleaner is clean, I'll check the plugs and timming before the next trip.
Thanks
Keith

Only sure way to know is to check the numbers stamped in the block...usually coated in harden grease and dirt (known technically as gunk). Second best way is to look at the manufacturers plate...assuming a previous owner didn't swap engines, which is unusual in motorhomes. It's also possible to decode the serial number, which usually has the original engine encoded...I don't have the decode charts handy but I'll try to look them up.

[Mr_Mopar_]

40 cuibic inchs!!
the difference between the 400 and 440, the stroke is more, 3/16 I think?
both are great engines but I would what a 440 I a motor home.

[xchawk]

Mr.Mopar! wrote:
I would guess you have a 440 engine there. That's a good thing.
you might try and retard the timing a few degrees. check the spark plugs for correct heat range and take a good look at them that they are burning correctly, might be running a little lean as well, check the intake manifold bolts for correct tourque and the bolts on the flange of the carb and that the air cleaner is clean. other that that you may need to upgrade to a larger radiator.

So it's a 440 and not a 400? the parts store keeps saying 400 so is there a difference? The Air cleaner is clean, I'll check the plugs and timming before the next trip.
Thanks
Keith

[Mr_Mopar_]

I would guess you have a 440 engine there. That's a good thing.
you might try and retard the timing a few degrees. check the spark plugs for correct heat range and take a good look at them that they are burning correctly, might be running a little lean as well, check the intake manifold bolts for correct tourque and the bolts on the flange of the carb and that the air cleaner is clean. other that that you may need to upgrade to a larger radiator.

[xchawk]

Mr.Mopar! wrote:

xchawk wrote:
Hmmm still overheating slightly pulling hills and head winds. As soon as I slow down it cools right down to 170. Only thing left to check is the Fan clutch or replace the radiator. Does anyone know how to check the fan clutch or lock it up so I can make sure. And by the way while searching parts I've discovered that instead of the 360 I thought I had, in order to get the right parts I need to request parts for a 400.

Keith

when you say over heating is the coolant boiling out of the radiator or is the temp just increasing to the top end of the gauge?
are you pulling anything when overheating and what is the outside temperature when this occurs?
what parts are you having to get that that fit the 400? are you sure of the engine you have? small blocks have the distributor in the rear of the engine while the big blocks are in the front.

I just inspect the clutch fan for leakage in the front area of the clutch. the fan should turn with some restriction when cool and when warm should turn a bit harder. I don't know of any way to accurately test the clutch on the fan. I have seen a guy drill and put a bolt right thru the clutch to lock it up but I sure wouldn't recommend doing that. it also make quite a roar with the thing locked up like that.
Rodney

The parts I needed were gaskets, and the distributor is in the front of the engine so it must be a 400. Doesn't or hasn't boiled over yet, Pulling a 16x8' trailer and the hotter it is outside the hotter it runs. "gauge climbs in upwards of 220 when normally down around 170 to 180 degrees on the gauge. Hill's, Head winds and trying to drive faster then 60mph all cause the gauge to climb. When I slow down it cools right off.
Thanks

[Mr_Mopar_]

xchawk wrote:
Hmmm still overheating slightly pulling hills and head winds. As soon as I slow down it cools right down to 170. Only thing left to check is the Fan clutch or replace the radiator. Does anyone know how to check the fan clutch or lock it up so I can make sure. And by the way while searching parts I've discovered that instead of the 360 I thought I had, in order to get the right parts I need to request parts for a 400.

Keith

when you say over heating is the coolant boiling out of the radiator or is the temp just increasing to the top end of the gauge?
are you pulling anything when overheating and what is the outside temperature when this occurs?
what parts are you having to get that that fit the 400? are you sure of the engine you have? small blocks have the distributor in the rear of the engine while the big blocks are in the front.

I just inspect the clutch fan for leakage in the front area of the clutch. the fan should turn with some restriction when cool and when warm should turn a bit harder. I don't know of any way to accurately test the clutch on the fan. I have seen a guy drill and put a bolt right thru the clutch to lock it up but I sure wouldn't recommend doing that. it also make quite a roar with the thing locked up like that.
Rodney

[xchawk]

Hmmm still overheating slightly pulling hills and head winds. As soon as I slow down it cools right down to 170. Only thing left to check is the Fan clutch or replace the radiator. Does anyone know how to check the fan clutch or lock it up so I can make sure. And by the way while searching parts I've discovered that instead of the 360 I thought I had, in order to get the right parts I need to request parts for a 400.

Keith

[dongizmo]

Mr.Mopar! wrote:
I would be looking for a new or good used tank if it were me Don. If there are that many cracks, their may be more to cause you greef down the road.
good luck

I'm considering that also, I am taking the tank in, if the welder says he can do it, and the price is right, the shop I am taking it to is a plastic fabrication shop, if they say scrap it I will. here is where I am taking it:http://stellarplastics.com/

I have searched on line for a replacement tank and have not found a suitable replacement.
(there are lots of 22 gal. steel tanks:R )
Don

[Mr_Mopar_]

I would be looking for a new or good used tank if it were me Don. If there are that many cracks, their may be more to cause you greef down the road.
good luck

[dongizmo]

I picked up a 76 Travelcraft 23' last August, (it has the 360 engine) I am currently repairing the main fuel tank, it is a 36 gal plastic, the guy I bought it from told us he thought the change over valve was bad:M
, (he said the orig owner told him) what I found is a 6" crack in one corner of the tank, and another 3" one along the side. I am taking it in tomorrow to a plastic shop to see if they can weld the crack.
(I found out during my discussion with the welder he has a 75 MH)
Now to figure where all the hoses go that were disconnected.....
I hope to have the tank back by this weekend so I have a extra day to install it :B:B
Don