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I have bad gas!

ronaz01
Explorer
Explorer
I haven't been on the forum for a while and I have been bad and haven't taken care of my RV for about as long. My wife and I haven't used it for about 5 years and I use to go out and start it every other week then that got stretched to every month and then to "I better go start the RV" and then get distracted. Time went on, life got in the way and the RV got neglected. I went to start it a year ago and it took a while. She finally fired and we let it run for a while and then took it out and around town. Former neighbor heard me having difficulties starting and said "your fuel pump is gone' Really, how did it start then? I have had the fuel pump replaced once and that is when we used it a lot and it had more a lot more gas in it and it wouldn't fire or run at all then, anyway I tried to start it in November after changing the bad battery and after a few tries she fired up. I have read about E-10 fuel and I know about Stabilizer and how attractive alcohol fuel is to water and to keep the tank full (that was difficult for us at the time $3.60 times 55 gallons = OUCH) The tank is on "E" I am going to put some new gas in and try to run it out and add stabilizer. I hope that helps. Hopefully there isn't too much water in the bottom of the tank. I live in the Phoenix area so not much moisture here. Any suggestions would be helpful.
2001 Shasta 31'Class C with Slide, 2003 PT Cruiser Toad
Two Suzuki Boulevard C50 Motorcycles. Honda Rebel 250
Arctic Cat Prowler
9 REPLIES 9

Travelcrafter
Explorer
Explorer
I would start by checking for a drain plug, then like you said 5-10 gallons of clean fuel maybe 91-93 octane and marine grade sta-bil. Before cranking it over pull the fuel line at the fuel rails or carburetor and change out any fuel filters you have. crank it till good fuel gets to the rail or carb then reattach the lines. flush the old gas from the area with a hose then attempt to start it up. if you have water in your tank you may have rust in your tank and it will plug up your fuel filters, injectors and carb jets you may have to change filters a couple of times in the process so don't get discouraged. you may get lucky and not have any or much water as well but I wouldn't neglect to flush the lines; plugged injectors or carb jets is a pain especially when it can be avoided.

tboss
Explorer
Explorer
if you have a E350 ford chassis then you should have a drain plug on the bottom of the tank...if so remove the plug and let what ever is in the tank drain out into a bucket ..the first thing that will come out is the water trapped in the tank replace the plug and pour a cupl gallons of diesel fuel or kerosene through the tank to clean the inside of the tank..

pianotuna
Nomad II
Nomad II
Hi,

The reason to keep the tank full is to help prevent condensation. I would drain the gas out.

Water in gas turns into a white gelatinous mass. You really don't want to have that clogging fuel lines and other things in an engine.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

ronaz01
Explorer
Explorer
I was thinking of only about putting in 5 or so gallons AFTER I SIPHON OUT THE BAD STUFF. I have 2 1/2 feet of space between the gas inlet and a block wall so space is a problem. I have a pump that may work. If what I do doesn't work then I will be crawling under to remove the tank. I have seen a lot of varnish and have cleaned several motorcycle and quad carbs. They are clean and stabilized. Start right up. I know I will have to clean the genny carb.

Selling isn't an option. I owe too much on it.

A former coworker told me I would be bored when I retired. Not really. I have plenty to do.
2001 Shasta 31'Class C with Slide, 2003 PT Cruiser Toad
Two Suzuki Boulevard C50 Motorcycles. Honda Rebel 250
Arctic Cat Prowler

klutchdust
Explorer II
Explorer II
Varnish is the real culprit. Replaced a few carburetors on hot rods and powered garden equipment because of it. Varnish is difficult to wash away however I agree with the sea foam idea. I have Sta-Bil in all my

fuel cans and start my portable generators once a month and put under a load . You need to remember also the air conditioning system needs to run on a regular basis ,even for a short time, to lubricate the seals.

This pertains to the coach as well as the chassis. When air conditioning loses freon that is usually why. I would add sea-foam and drive the coach down the road for a half hour or so. It will do your transmission

some good also. Don't forget to run your generator if so equipped.

As far as the oil, if it is fairly clean running the engine up to temperature and then some will remove any condensation from the crankcase. Also check the water

in the radiator, rust will eat your engine alive. When running the engine turn on the heater to circulate the water through. Be sure the anti-freeze is good. I

always add distilled water to my radiator, battery and windshield washer bottle. It's inexpensive and it helps .

jfkmk
Explorer
Explorer
I'm not a fan of adding stuff like Seafoam to my fuel or oil. Using a top tier gasoline and changing the oil on time with a quality oil do a much better job of keeping the engine and fuel systems clean and running correctly. Besides, once the gunk builds up and you loosen it the crud can clog small openings.

That being said, I would definitely use Sta-Bil in the fuel tank of a vehicle that sits for any length of time. Even with Sta-Bil it only lasts for up to a year.

I would think about what you want to do with the MH. If the plans are to start using it again, bring it to a mechanic for a good tune up and have it thoroughly checked out. If all you do is start it up every year or so, I'd consider selling it while it still runs and has some resale value. You could consider selling it as is or getting the tune up and trying to get more money for it. Not sure which way is best, that's something you'll have to figure out.

Best of luck!

midnightsadie
Explorer II
Explorer II
well there is lots of water in arizona every night the temp changes and causes moisture . but back to your problem. 5yrs yep your gas is junk. I would not try and run that gas. might try a hillbilly cure get the old gas out ,put in 5gal of new with a couple cans of sea foam . if your real handy disconnect the gas line and get all the old gas out. your plugs might have to be changed? there water logged. or have it toad to a garage and have the fuel system cleaned. at least your in a warm spot to do this.

RoyB
Explorer II
Explorer II
Check out NAPA or auto parts store - They have gas additives you can add to the tank - It would be hard for me to drain a full tank of gas haha...

Bad gas usually means water has been mixed in with it. I forget which way it goes but if they are left setting one will eventually separate rise to the top of the tank... Using a hand pumper you might able to siphon out the bad stuff... This could be a dangerous thing to play with however...

Roy Ken
My Posts are IMHO based on my experiences - Words in CAPS does not mean I am shouting
Roy - Carolyn
RETIRED DOAF/DON/DOD/CONTR RADIO TECH (42yrs)
K9PHT (Since 1957) 146.52M
2010 F150, 5.4,3:73 Gears,SCab
2008 Starcraft 14RT EU2000i GEN
2005 Flagstaff 8528RESS

rockylarson
Explorer
Explorer
I have no scientific basis for my suggestion but I will tell you what I would try first if it was my coach. Instead of filling the gas tank I would put in 5 to 10 gallons of fresh gas with a pint of SeaFoam. Add the recommended amount of Seafoam to the oil and when the 10 gallons of gas is almost all gone, change the gas filter, oil and oil filter. Good Luck.
Jan and Rocky
Volunteers for USFWS. 29 refuges with 9300 hrs ea since 2006. 2004 Allegro 30DA, Workhorse 8.1, Banks, 2012 Jeep Liberty Jet, Blue Ox Aladdin, Brake Buddy Advantage Select, 300 watts solar, 5 Optima group 31 AGM's, 2000watt Ames PSW inverter.