Replace existing AC or add 2nd unit in the bedroom

[Vt_Rv]

My air conditioner, although blowing cold, isn't cooling enough to keep up with the heat. I have a Coleman unit, not sure if it's 15000 or 13500 but think it's 13500.

I was debating on replacing with a new 15000 then realized that the rear vent in the bedroom is pre wired and vented to add a second AC unit.

Now I'm wondering if I should put in a new unit up front and move the old one to the rear.

Just add a second unit in the bedroom.

Or just replace the front AC.

I'm also wondering if this is a DIY job or if I should have it done. With it being pre wired with a connector and breaker And having it vented into the duct work will both units run off the existing thermostat?

I have 50 amp service so will I be able to run both at the same time and run off the generator? The generator is a 5500 with 50 amp service.

[Mile_High]

The first time I added a 2nd AC, you just get the bottom diffuser trim with the controls and thermostat built in. There is no need to modify your original wall thermostat.

[nemo45]

nemo45 wrote:

mpierce wrote:
I have a 90 Bluebird. The rear bedroom AC quit. The AC guy said the wiring and thermostat would need replacing too, as they are too obsolete for the newer ACs.
So, I put an Atwood AC in. It has a panel on it to control it, and it uses a remote. NO wiring, NO thermostat, just need the power feed.

Works great. More efficient that the oem too. That is what I would do. Nice to be able to lie in bed, and adjust the temp, turn off, etc. without getting up at 2AM!

This is really a good idea. I wish I would have put one in with a remote, and I think Dometic makes one too, as my wife is too short to reach the controls without a stool. We have 7-1/2 foot ceilings. So, anytime the A/C has to be turned on, off or adjusted I have to do it. Yes, I'm lazy. If I have to replace the other one that's what I'll do. Remember though, if you have a furnace running on the thermostat for the A/C It won't run without the A/C in the loop, because there is a 12V wire for the furnace that runs the A/C controller so they can't run at the same time. I had to put a manual thermostat for the furnace in. If you're just adding an A/C its not a problem.

Found out Dometic doesn't make one with a remote for the air box.

[mike_brez]

falconbrother wrote:
Installing a roof AC is very easy, even the wiring is simple.. But, if your RV is a 30amp you don't have the power to run an extra AC unit. Two roof AC's are found on 50amp RVs. But, you could pull a second 15 amp circuit. I have done that an I ran a 15amp shore connection. Just be real comfy with your wiring and circuit breaker. For a second AC I chose an 11000 BTU and it was more than enough.

Seriously, the hardest part is getting the thing up there. I have done this job 4 times. If the wiring is there and you have the amps it's as easy as falling off of your RV, which you should avoid.

OP in his first post said he has a 50 amp service.

[falconbrother]

Installing a roof AC is very easy, even the wiring is simple.. But, if your RV is a 30amp you don't have the power to run an extra AC unit. Two roof AC's are found on 50amp RVs. But, you could pull a second 15 amp circuit. I have done that an I ran a 15amp shore connection. Just be real comfy with your wiring and circuit breaker. For a second AC I chose an 11000 BTU and it was more than enough.

Seriously, the hardest part is getting the thing up there. I have done this job 4 times. If the wiring is there and you have the amps it's as easy as falling off of your RV, which you should avoid.

[nemo45]

mpierce wrote:
I have a 90 Bluebird. The rear bedroom AC quit. The AC guy said the wiring and thermostat would need replacing too, as they are too obsolete for the newer ACs.
So, I put an Atwood AC in. It has a panel on it to control it, and it uses a remote. NO wiring, NO thermostat, just need the power feed.

Works great. More efficient that the oem too. That is what I would do. Nice to be able to lie in bed, and adjust the temp, turn off, etc. without getting up at 2AM!

This is really a good idea. I wish I would have put one in with a remote, and I think Dometic makes one too, as my wife is too short to reach the controls without a stool. We have 7-1/2 foot ceilings. So, anytime the A/C has to be turned on, off or adjusted I have to do it. Yes, I'm lazy. If I have to replace the other one that's what I'll do. Remember though, if you have a furnace running on the thermostat for the A/C It won't run without the A/C in the loop, because there is a 12V wire for the furnace that runs the A/C controller so they can't run at the same time. I had to put a manual thermostat for the furnace in. If you're just adding an A/C its not a problem.

[willgrab]

OR, how about a mini split ac, very low wattage requirements and sooo quiet you wont know when it is on

[Mile_High]

If you are prewired - go for a 2nd AC. Your 5500 is more than adequate. We ran two 1500 btu ACs off of an Onan 5500 on the last three fifth wheels.

[mike_brez]

TNGW1500SE wrote:
First I'd figure out if the old A/C is running 100 percent like it should be. If not, I'd get that one up to speed. If that wasn't the case, I'd look for ways to insulate and/or shade the RV. If all that fails, I'd add a second A/C unit. It would take me a few drinks to get the nerve to cut the roof. I would want to know exactly where to cut and defiantly cut from the inside first. It something went wrong, I could fix the interior. I'd make sure the wiring was there before cutting the roof! I'd probably DIY the job but that would be one I'd hate to tackle! There's a bunch of stuff that could go south on you. Like at said at the beginning, make sure the old unit just doesn't need a little TLC first! You could always just drive north!

No need to cut a hole in the roof the roof vent is allready there that's were the a/c goes and he said the wiring is there also along with duct work.

[mpierce]

I have a 90 Bluebird. The rear bedroom AC quit. The AC guy said the wiring and thermostat would need replacing too, as they are too obsolete for the newer ACs.
So, I put an Atwood AC in. It has a panel on it to control it, and it uses a remote. NO wiring, NO thermostat, just need the power feed.

Works great. More efficient that the oem too. That is what I would do. Nice to be able to lie in bed, and adjust the temp, turn off, etc. without getting up at 2AM!

[nemo45]

Vt Rv wrote:
I have a Kabota with a front the loader. Getting it up is the easy part, no pun intended!

We used a John Deere 25 hp diesel with a bucket up front but it was still about 3 ft. short so had to pull it up 2 X 6's with a rope.

[Vt_Rv]

I have a Kabota with a front the loader. Getting it up is the easy part, no pun intended!

[3oaks]

TNGW1500SE wrote:

TucsonJim wrote:
it's relatively easy to install them. The big issue you might face is how to get it up on the roof. Those rascals are heavy.
Jim

Sounds like a job for some Rednecking and a tall tree!

Or a farm tractor with a front end bucket loader like I used when my wife and I changed out our AC. 😉

[2oldman]

Vt Rv wrote:
I have 50 amp service so will I be able to run both at the same time and run off the generator? The generator is a 5500 with 50 amp service.

Your generator may have a 50a socket on it, but it's not true 50a, which is 12,000 watts.

Your generator is (I think) 5500 watts.

[TNGW1500SE]

TucsonJim wrote:
it's relatively easy to install them. The big issue you might face is how to get it up on the roof. Those rascals are heavy.
Jim

Sounds like a job for some Rednecking and a tall tree!