RV steps don't retract when engine is started

[Blaise]

I just got my rig out of the shop for some maintenance, and on my way home (almost all the way home), I noticed that the steps were not retracted. I drove 25 miles on the highway without seeing that - that's on me.

The steps have 2 modes - (1) auto open and close whenever the screen door opens and closes; and (2) stay open ignoring the door opening or closing. But when in this mode, starting the engine causes the steps to retract. At least they USED TO work that way.

Starting the engine no longer causes them to retract when in mode 2. So mode 1 works as it always has, but mode 2 only partially works. The steps stay open no matter what.

I've had the rig 6 years, and this is the first time I've seen this behavior. I'm pretty sure they worked properly when I dropped the RV off at the shop (2 months ago!), I almost always have the steps set to mode 2, and I think I remember the steps sliding out when I arrived at the shop to drop it off. But to be honest I can't swear to that.

When I picked it up, the door was closed and the steps were out, so it was definitely in mode 2. They just didn't close when I started the engine and drove away.

Anyone ever see this type of behavior, or can hazard a guess as to what might be causing this problem?

Thanks!

[Revup24]

Hello, on my 2016 class A the steps ignition override quit working recently after multiple interference hitting my leg still loading for a trip while the engine was running. Found # 23 fuse burnt by the brake pedal.  It said "Cluster/run accessory" in the book. I didn't notice anything else not working but didn't look either, so with the key on and screen door closed replacing the fuse engaged the steps and fixed it. 

[way2roll]

Thanks for coming back and telling how you fixed it . Had the same issue on a previous MH. I replaced all those fuses with ones that light up when blown. Saved me a ton of hunting in the future.

[dougrainer]

Thanks for the final posting. Your tale points to what I did state, the ONLY good way to determine electrical problems relating to fuses is to test EACH fuse, regardless of what any schematic seems to tell you. Doug

[Blaise]

You read my mind Doug - rather, I read yours! I pulled that panel. Both wires were connected to the breaker, but there was not 12 volts on either side of the breaker (with the ignition on), so that means the problem is upstream of the breaker.

I figured the most logical thing would be an upstream fuse/breaker, even though it seemed kind of silly to have 2 breaks on one line.

Started looking at the fuses under the hood, but they were all heavy duty. I figured the fuse I was looking for would likely be 5 or 10 amps, not the 30+ amp fuses/breakers I saw under the hood.

Then I remembered that there is a fuse panel in the coach - in a VERY inconvenient location - at the floor, to the left of the steering wheel! I had to lie down on my side, chest facing the brake pedal, butt up on the transmission hump between the driver and passenger seats - oh my back!

There are 27 mini fuses on that panel. And Doug, you're totally right - I looked up the fuse panel layout in the Ford F53 chassis owners manual, hoping I could determine which fuse to check. But the figure in the manual didn't look ANYTHING like the panel in the vehicle! I checked them all - the bad one was the 26th that I checked, of course - 10 amp.

Anyway, I replaced that fuse and all is well.

Thanks to all for the help and advice - it's very much appreciated.

[dougrainer]

Yes, the white button pops out. Have you removed that panel to verify that the 2 wires on that breaker are connected? Doug

[Blaise]

I think I identified the breaker for the ignition override line of the steps:

I don't see how to make the IMG tag work ... so here's a link instead:

http://www.thebaxfamily.com/Pics/RV-Step-Ign-Breaker.jpg

I've never this type of breaker trip, but I assume that when one trips, the white plastic piece pops out.

Well, tracing the cable did not work out well. The loom for the cable leading to the vehicle side of the 4-wire connector leads right away into a larger loom containing many other wires. I followed that larger loom; it snaked under the floor to the opposite (drivers) side of the RV. It then lead into one of the basement compartments. Unfortunately, that area of the basement is boxed out with metal. So, looking at it from the inside of that compartment, the loom is behind a metal plate.

This is directly under the galley area, so I'm going to dig around behind panels in the galley lower cabinets. Maybe I can find that loom and continue my search for the source of this mysteriously missing 12 volts.

But now it's time to cook a Memorial Day steak! Enjoy the rest of the Holiday!

Thanks again all.

[dougrainer]

What I do when confronted with a possible blown fuse is this. I use a standard 12 volt test light. I go to EVERY fuse block I can find on the RVl. With Ignition ON, I probe EVERY fuse. 9 times out of 10, that finds the blown fuse/s and I replace and that fixes the problem. The 10th time will be a wiring failure. After 43 years I NEVER trust the labeling on a RV fuse block schematic. I verify myself which fuses are good or bad. Also, this takes less than 15 to 20 minutes at most. Saves a LOT of time. Doug

[CA_Traveler]

Signature is displayed on the first post of a page of posts, see your first post. Pics must be totally public. Check the forum for help and there is a nice app for pics.

[Blaise]

For some reason my signature is not being appended to my posts, and I can't upload signature, personal, or rig pictures (though I am following the size guidelines). Entering rig info here ...

2016 Winnebago Vista LX 30T
Toad: 2015 Chevy Sonic hatchback

[Blaise]

Geez, Winnebago made this task a bit harder. The step motor side of the 4-wire connector has 4 wires that lead to the step control module: red, white, yellow and brown ... very sensible. The wire for the ignition override is the yellow one.

But the vehicle side has 3 yellow wires and one white! So if I follow the loom and find the source of the bundle, it'll be a bit harder to determine which of the 3 yellow wires connects to the yellow ignition override wire on the control module. I'll have to use a continuity tester ... likely with a very long lead! :B

[Blaise]

CA Traveler, yeah, I just now found where to add a signature, so I've added rig details to that

[CA_Traveler]

Posting year/model RV can help. Also suggest finding a forum unique to your RV. Physically tracing wires in a RV can be difficult. A wire tracer can help.

[wa8yxm]

Ok look for a 5 amp fuse.. If you have a Intelletec Battery Control Center I'd start there.. I like to use a test light to test blade fuses.

Ground the clip and touch the tip to both windows.
For this test the ignition will need to be in the ON position (Engine need not be running but ignition in ON)

Bright Bright - Fuse good
Dark Dark - No test (With the ignition ON this should not happen)
Bright/Dark or Dark/Bright Fuse blown.

if you do not have an Intelletec Battery Control Center check every fuse block/box/holder you got.

[Blaise]

OK, so I confirmed that the yellow wire on the vehicle side of the 4-wire connector is not getting 12 volts with the door closed and the ignition on.

I checked all the fuses and breakers I could find, but all were intact.

Not sure where to go from here. I figured once I get daylight back tomorrow (Sunday), I'll crawl under the rig, and follow the split loom cover for that cable back to its source. Maybe there's a bad connection somewhere, or perhaps an inline fuse blown - ok, an inline fuse is not likely ... I'm just grasping at straws 🙂

Hmm, I wonder if the service guys did something to cause this - maybe they disconnected something and forgot to reconnect it? I'm pretty sure this problem was not present when I dropped the rig off. Well, following the wire might have me discover that, if that's what happened.

Thanks for all the suggestions and help!