RVs are High!!! The Conclusion!!

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All,

A month or so ago I posted a thread on suggestions about being able to utilize my RV garage for a class A. (thread here) The ceiling has a low portion of 11' 7", and the door opening goes 12'. In the far end, the width changes to 9' 6". Most RVs, especially newer models, have the A/C on the roof, making their max height well over 12' 5", and some to 13'. The pre 2009 Winnebagos and others had residential air in the basements, which made their max height 11' 6" to the "highest standard feature". Through the 8 pages of the thread, I recieved a lot of thoughts and suggestions. Thanks to everybody, I appreciate it.

After measuring and checking and measuring and checking, our first pick to begin with, a Winnebago Journey. We finally bit the bullet and bought one (luckely without the satellite dome)drove it back to Colorado and after about 30 minutes of work, got it to fit in the garage.....Talk about a stressful exercise!!

I have a finger width of room between the side view camera and the wall on the passenger side and a finger width of room between the drivers mirro and wall on the opposite side. I am going to notch out my drywall to give me another 3/4" of clearance for the camera to allow for the coach tipping on the airbags if it does.

Here are some shots:

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smkettner wrote:
I would be gathering estimates to make the door 14' tall and add 6'+ to the width.

I guess it doesn't hurt to look into the options. I've got some friends that can tell me if it is worth pursuing.

jeff

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I would be gathering estimates to make the door 14' tall and add 6'+ to the width.

[OhhWell]

I agree that just about any situation where you can keep your rig at home is far better than storage.

I do believe you can air down and still turn some and that people do just that when they have overhead clearance issues with garages.

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daveB110 wrote:
I'm guessing your garage has a side door about where you M H door is. or do you let the front four feet protrude, out of view from the camera? This reminds me of our ocaisional predicament of being parked on a busy ferry, jammed in with no room to exit our vehicle, hoping the tub doesn't begin to sink! Tough to get access to your bays?

There is just enough room to open the door. It would make me nervous being trapped inside on a ferry!

Jeff

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Passin Thru wrote:
Bleed off the airbags then it cant tilt.

I'm afraid if I do that it might not go down perfectly straight. I'll have to experiment with doing it outside with some markers to see how much it moves.

Jeff

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okhmbldr wrote:
I think you did a great job! You accepted the challenge and conquered!
It really surprises me that so many responses have the attitude that the "sky is eventually going to fall". You seem to think everything through to the end result, so I don't think you'll ever encounter any problems. Congrats on your success!

Thanks much, I appreciate the encouragement.

Jeff

[SCVJeff]

Spizzer wrote:

buta4 wrote:
Hi,

You'd think that rvf manufacturers would have foreseen this side-mirror
clearance situation and designed fold=back mirrors as in the automotive industry.

I agree! Especially since they have pushed the legal limit.

Jeff

They did.
His left side folds flat, and the right side requires a deep socket that I keep in a very small bag by the door. I used to have a similar parking situation with the identical coach..

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buta4 wrote:
Hi,

You'd think that rvf manufacturers would have foreseen this side-mirror
clearance situation and designed fold=back mirrors as in the automotive industry.

I agree! Especially since they have pushed the legal limit.

Jeff

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kokois1 wrote:
How did you open the door to get out?

The narrow part is just the front portion of the rig. It goes back to around the hinge line. I had room to park it about 5 inches further back, now the door opens all the way!

Jeff

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Stephen W wrote:
Great job measuring and having the guts to trust your measurements!

Thanks, Stephen. To be honest it was a tighter fit than I thought it would be.

Jeff

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Daveinet wrote:

Daveinet wrote:
One other option would be some well placed photo sensors connected to a very loud buzzer. You can only look at so many things at the same time, so an audible warning would just tell you to stop, before damage is done.

OK, so taking my post into the DIY realm, Drill a hole into the concrete floor near the door entrance on either side. Put an eye hook in each hole. Tie a fishing line vertical to a microswitch at the top, with a piezoelectric buzzer connected to it. This way if you tag the line, the buzzer will go off and warn you to stop. While optical may seem slick, optical sensors get dirty, especially if they are aimed straight up. A simple fishing line should last forever. I'd be inclined to test it before each use. I just keep thinking along the lines of what Dennis said, you can do it 100 times and always be careful, but at some point the odds are against you. Having an audible warning should prevent that. I also like what 06Fargo said about painting stripes on the drive to help you get lined up, before you enter the garage. This will be especially true as your driveway is up hill. That slant can throw off your perception when lining things up.

I really like the fish line idea? I'm wondering if I can do something parallel to the floor? Anything to help avoid that big mistake will be worth it. Thanks for the ideas!!

Jeff

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MustangGT wrote:
WOW! You've got patience or guts or both! More of both than myself obviously.
So OK, you've proven you can fit your motorhome in your garage. Now the question to ask and answer is: "Does the added value of security and shelter in the garage exceed the eventual (probable, IMHO) damage caused by moving the RV in and out of such a tight space?" And maybe loss of all that storage space for a car, pojects etc. I suppose lack of RV basement access and ingress/egress too.
I'd have to be really desperate to take such a risk, but awesome job looking at pics. LOL

Lots of good questions! Keeping my rig out of the Colorado sun and winter is worth it. Even having to keep my daily drive out in the elements is worth it. I can get to the important storage bays, and when we put it back in yesterday, I left it back about 5 inches more and the door essentially open all the way!

Jeff

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sowego wrote:
Wow, amazing job parking in such a tight space. Backing out will be fun too! I'd be sure you don't try to drive it in or out with snow on the driveway so there is no chance of sliding. It's a good thing you have a place to open the door or you'd be trapped inside the motorhome.

Hadn't thought about the snow issue. I could get stuck outside sometime if we come back with snow...

BTW, backing out wasn't too bad, and going back in for the second time was a lot easier and less stressful.

Jeff

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06Fargo wrote:
If you don't turn the front wheels it will go straight in and straight out...

Paint 2 small black sight lines on the drive way that line up with the side of the coach that tell you that you are correctly lined up to taxi in.

And you would use the cameras for backing...

Parking in close quarters where you can see the wide points (mirrors) from the seat is easy but a little more clearance for the camera is a good idea.

Dangle a soft ball that touches the windshield when you are far enough in - saves someone accidentally kicking your stop board...

Don't back in - the big deezil will fill the house with fumage while you are making air psi's on start up.

and once you are in there post a picture on rv.net to get the kerfuffle going 🙂 ... no wait already done 🙂 🙂

Can't keep the wheels the same. Once the driver mirror is through the door, I have to move a bit left to give the awning more clearance, and then follow the wall up as I move in.

The tennis ball is in work!

Thanks for the thoughts and ideas!

Jeff